The distinct style of ladies’ dress in the 18th century was achieved by a complex succession of layers that began with the underpinnings. Underpinnings were what we might refer to as underwear today, and they provided the basic structure and dimension that made 18th century fashion unique. The name is somewhat deceptive, however, as underpinnings weren't always out of sight - they were simply the first layers of a complete outfit. In fact, for a working class girl, the underpinnings may have been all that she wore from day to day.
This 34 page PDF pattern is not too difficult, but some sewing experience is helpful. It includes instructions for a shift, stays, panniers, and petticoat sized for both 18" dolls such as American Girl® and A Girl for All Time Dolls®.
Recommended Fabrics: Shift and Stays Lining in lightweight cotton batiste or linen. Not suitable for knits. Stays, Panniers, and Petticoat in medium weight quilting cotton, silk, wool, or linen. Period prints, stripes, and solids work well for the panniers and petticoat. Stripes are not recommended for the Stays. Not suitable for knits.
-Shift ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m),
-Stays ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Stays Lining ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Panniers ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Petticoat ~ 1/3 yard (1/3 m).
Notions: Thread. Shift ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Stays with straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1/2 yard 1/4-inch (6mm) ribbon, 1 yard of 5/8-inch wide bias tape (trimmed down from 1-inch wide commercial bias tape or cut from fabric), fourteen 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Stays without straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, ten 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Panniers ~ 1 yard 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Petticoat ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) twill tape or ribbon.
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 34 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides digitally drawn step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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Having fun with this pattern.
My dollys love correct underclothes. The little set of stays is just too cute! Having a set of pocket hoops for my Colonial or Georgian dolls is a must for the correct fit of their clothes. The only problem is that the underclothes will be so pretty that you won't want to cover them up with clothes! This could also be used to make corsets for steampunk outfits or modern dolls.
I've made this in both sizes. Perfect fit on both. The lacing allows for snug fit on both PM and Mattel AG dolls. Easy to follow instructions and illustrations. Use a short stitch, and stitch and mark your stitching lines carefully. The finished product is too pretty to cover up. I used my printed corsets over white shifts and deep colored petticoats. This pattern included pattern pieces to make all three items. Just beautiful.