How To Sew A Hem On Knit Fabrics - The Coffee Filter Trick

Do you have a fear of sewing hems on knit fabrics? Don't fret, many of us do too! In this post, I'm excited to share with you a quick and easy tip to sewing a hemline on knits with no stress at all! The secret is the use of a coffee filter as a stabilizer - seriously, it works! After trying this, I'm pretty sure you'll never go back to your old method and you will have the confidence to sew knits without fear! 

 

This exciting sewing tip is being shared with you as an excerpt from the full Sewing With Knits MasterClass course. This is one of our most popular courses, if you haven't already checked it out I encourage you to take a peek and pick up a copy of the course today, or join the Sewing With Cinnamon community for more sewing tips, tricks, and community interaction.

Now onto the tutorial... All you need is a plain coffee filter (white or natural) and a knit fabric project to test this out. It can be any sewing project, it doesn't have to be just for dolls. Although, if it's larger than the coffee filter, you'll probably need several to get the job done!

 

Wasn't that amazing? Are you ready to try this out yourself?

 

 

Applying this method can help you approach sewing patterns designed for knit fabrics with confidence! Be sure to check out our Summertime Styles With Knit Fabrics to see more patterns where you can apply your new skills! Here are a few suggestions to get you started:

 

 

  

 

We'd love to hear from you. Leave a comment and tell us - your favorite "Sewing With Knits tip" or share with us your biggest Sewing With Knits challenge! 

Commenting below and confirming your entry in the widget above gives you one entry method, the other methods are listed in the widget above, be sure to enter in as many ways as you can to receive the maximum amount of entries to win one PF Gift Card!

Thanks, everyone!

The Pixie Faire Team


100 Comments

Ruth
Ruth

August 07, 2020

I enjoy your patterns and classes. I wish everything I tried to master offered great classes such as yours. Thank you.

Maryann
Maryann

August 07, 2020

It’s a challenge to sew knits and I have an older machine, but the problems I have are jammed and skipped stitches.

Carol
Carol

August 07, 2020

Thanks a million for your tip – can’t wait to try!

Jackie
Jackie

August 07, 2020

Thanks for the tip!

Marian Peoples
Marian Peoples

August 07, 2020

You know you have sewn forever when you read all the comments and realize you have done them all!. My good old Singer 237 and I had a love-hate relationship with double knits in the 70s, but knits and I have come to an understanding since. I actually do all of the things I read in the comments. I use the coffee filter, ball point needle and a tiny zigzag stitch since this machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch. On my electronic machines it is a little easier, but my go-to machine is still the the 237. I am crazy.. I sew on all types of knits, fairly easily.. but I have worked at it now for years.

Susie
Susie

August 07, 2020

Depending on the knit, mine gets jammed in the throat plate!

Anna
Anna

August 07, 2020

Biggest challenge is getting skipped stitches. I have an older machine and it is picky.

Alberta
Alberta

August 07, 2020

Ball point needle and a tear away stabilizer. I will try this method.

SANDRA NIXON
SANDRA NIXON

August 07, 2020

Keep all the tips coming. Thanks

Sheila Chelednik
Sheila Chelednik

August 07, 2020

Thanks for the tip.

Marietta
Marietta

August 07, 2020

I’m thinking to try my embroidery tear away stabilizer and see if that works the same. Great video. Thank you from Florida

Magdalena
Magdalena

August 07, 2020

I use a stretch needle and stitch, and on the shoulder seams I like to stabilize it with a thin piece of ribbon. If the knit is very thin I sometimes use some wash away stabilizer that is used for embroidery projects.

Suzie
Suzie

August 06, 2020

Hum I didn’t have sound up. Its 2:30am. I’ld wake the house. I’m assuming because coffee filter or tissue paper as many say in comments, keeps the feed from touching the fabric, it won’t stretch. Wish I knew that a couple days ago. Someone , without asking me, gave me shirts to shorten. Soft slipper knit tees. Light weight knits. I hate those. I helped h err out hoping it would lead to Christ. I hope she is happy with the hem. I was not. Sometime I’ll try light paper under an edge sewing on knits

Marie
Marie

August 06, 2020

I always pin it in a dbl fold and use the straight stretch stitch and it works well! this is a great idea, thank you! Thinner stretch fabric will stretch when I stitch it so I will try the coffee filter. For hems on any fabric I dbl fold and pin with the long pins along the hem not across the hem and as I sew i slide the pins out. I was manufacturing the doll clothes. I would buy up the fabric and cut 50 to 100 outfits then pin them all and run through the machine. It worked well with flannel I was always running out of nightys, pjs and diapers, I can’t do it anymore but it was fun! Now I sew just what I want in an amount for me!! I have trouble on starts with any fabric so as it starts to sew I start to pull on the 2 threads and it helps get the start going better and not going into the machine.

Rabbit
Rabbit

August 06, 2020

Thanks for the tip! I usually don’t sew with knits but I have been working up the courage to make some doll clothes from old t-shirts. I will try the coffee filters for sure!

Donna Sherry
Donna Sherry

August 06, 2020

I’ve always used tissue paper to sew knits and 1/8” ribbon on shoulders I will be trying some new ideas next time I sew knits.

Jocelyn
Jocelyn

August 06, 2020

I have always used tissue paper, but is always nice to have another way.

Betty
Betty

August 06, 2020

I have a problem with the fabric stretching. I am going to try the coffee filter. I may also try some some wash away stablilzer.

marilyn
marilyn

August 06, 2020

keeping hems from stretching.

Carrie Smith
Carrie Smith

August 06, 2020

I really like Pixie patterns. Simple and fast but look amazing.

BrendaK
BrendaK

August 06, 2020

I’ve always used tissue paper to sew on knits but it tears easily. The coffee filters sounds so much better!!!

Jackie Koepnick
Jackie Koepnick

August 06, 2020

hems !! but maybe with this tip i will get it

Vicky I
Vicky I

August 06, 2020

Don’t combine the twin needle with the straight stitch plate!

Bonnie
Bonnie

August 06, 2020

I usually avoid knits, but this idea makes me want to try. Thank you

Kristen B
Kristen B

August 06, 2020

Great tips! Thanks for sharing! I’ve been avoiding knit fabric but maybe will try it again.

Diandra
Diandra

August 06, 2020

It was suggested to me to pull lightly on the threads when you begin stitching to keep the fabric from being pulled down into the machine. I’ve been using that combined with using tissue paper underneath to help sew knits.

Barbara Coleman
Barbara Coleman

August 06, 2020

I always have trouble with hems on knit fabric especially t-shirt knits. It always stretches out. I am so glad You now gave me a solution. Thank you!

Christie E Bradley
Christie E Bradley

August 06, 2020

I used to avoid every pattern that required knit fabrics but the Pixie Faire courses for knits and sewing with socks have made it easy enough that now I seek out fun knit patterns and whip up upcycled clothes from old t shirts. The tissue paper trick works wonders, as does stabilizing with lace hem tape. I’m hoping to finally start sewing swimsuits soon so that will be my new challenge.

Beth Watness
Beth Watness

August 06, 2020

You can reduce the chance of the fabric getting stuffed into the throat plate by use the straight stitch plate instead of the more common zigzag plate — if your machine has one. Also start each seam or hem with a two inch piece of stablelizer, coffeefilter, or paper.

Diane Goff
Diane Goff

August 06, 2020

My biggest sewing with knit challenge is keeping tiny hems from being stuffed into the feed dogs.

JacquieCorrigan
JacquieCorrigan

August 06, 2020

Wow, so many great tips! I have been using a roll of tissue paper for years when needing to stabilize a fabric. I love the coffee filter idea — It is bigger and won’t require so much finicky positioning. Thanks so much Cinnamon.

Patti M
Patti M

August 06, 2020

I dreaded sewing on knits. The stretch factor combined with the feed dogs eating the fabric were the things of which my nightmares were made. I purchased the SWC class on knits and now I am beginning to have a bit of success and building confidence. This video is a great step along the way.

Tari Samples
Tari Samples

August 06, 2020

My biggest fear with sewing on knit fabric is it stretching out of shape as I sew and sometimes sewing over a bulky part. However, with the helpful hints of sewing with a coffee filter under the fabric and the knit stabilizer strips, it has become so much easier! Thank you Cinnamon for all you and your crew do for all of us out there! :)

Kaylee
Kaylee

August 06, 2020

My biggest trouble with knits would be hemming them, but thankfully if you iron knits then they usually shrink back.

Tish Evans
Tish Evans

August 05, 2020

My tip is to use a ball point knit needle and change out the throat plate to single needle to keep the fabric from getting sucked into the machine. I have much better looking results when I press the seams as I go along. Another tip for finishing raw edges on knits is to use 1 inch strips of tulle folded in half. Sew the raw edges of the folded tulle to the right side of the garment. Then turn the edge under and topstitch, catching the folded edge of the tulle in the seam. It makes a very neat, thin finish at a neckline or armhole edge! And tulle comes in so many colors and is cheap!

kathy m
kathy m

August 05, 2020

my favorite tip is coffee filter or the tissue paper it amazes I how much save tissue paper from package box it make sewing knits so much easier too and it work on those sheer fabric too for those small pieces

Ann
Ann

August 05, 2020

The coffee filter/tissue paper tip has been a game changer. It really does make sewing knits so much easier.

NancyB
NancyB

August 05, 2020

I love this tip! I always have trouble with getting neat stitches, but probably because I sew them from the wrong side. From the video I can see that the filter gives the stability to keep the neckline from rolling so that it can be sewn from the right side without any problem. I will give this a whirl on my next t shirt project!

Lisa
Lisa

August 05, 2020

I’ve tried coffee filters, but I prefer tissue paper …. I keep a ziplock bag of 1” strips in my sewing area, ready to grab when I need one. Huge help when sewing knits!

Candy
Candy

August 05, 2020

I stopped sewing knits on the machine because they looked so sloppy. I sewed them by hand. The coffee filter was such a good idea I’m getting some at the grocery on Friday. Thank you for such creative ideas!

Janice
Janice

August 05, 2020

Great tip. Just ordered the leotard pattern and ink this will be a great help

Linda
Linda

August 05, 2020

My tip would be to use a little bit bigger stitch width that helps but the coffee filter idea is amazing!

Mae Lynn Beck
Mae Lynn Beck

August 05, 2020

My tip would be the coffee filter as a stabilizer. My challenge is not getting the channel when I use a twin needle.

Sara Theiss
Sara Theiss

August 05, 2020

Loved the coffee filter tip. Can’t wait to test it out.

Ann
Ann

August 05, 2020

I was forced into sewing on knits when my mother had a dress shop and I got pulled into doing alterations!! Well, FIRST always use a ballpoint needle!! I’ve heard various seamtresses on YouTube say that they use Universal needles on everything – well if you want the knit fabric pushed into the needle plate, holes in the fabric or “rat’s nests” on the underside – go ahead and use Universal needles. Also, hold onto both the bobbin and spool threads as you start to sew – a lot of the time the problem starts just as you start. Next, use a slight zig-zag stitch. I mean SLIGHT. Finished, it will look like a straight stitch but what it will allow you to do is hold your fabric a bit taut which will help keep your seams straight. Pinning: Knits tend to move quite a bit so I pin outside the seam allowance so that the fabric doesn’t move and the seam edge is free for my sewing machine and fingers to adjust things as I go. I remove the pins after the seam is finished. If the seam is in a tight place I will hand based the fabrics just to stop the sliding or movement of the rest of the fabric interfering with the seam. Lastly, I have no problem using an under lining layer; if I don’t want it to show – chiffon, if I want some body, I will use a soft tulle. For example: the bodice of a knit dress with a gathered skirt. I will under line the bodice to hold the gathered waist in place and so that it goes onto the bodice in a straight line without puckering. If I want a gathered sleeve to have some bounce I’ll add a light weight (very soft) netting under it. There’s more I could say but this box is full enough! ;-D

Deborah Clark
Deborah Clark

August 05, 2020

The coffee filter hack is awesome! Always been afraid of lightweight knits but I don’t think I will be in the future after seeing this video. Thanks bunches! My problem is with lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon’s or silks and what needle to use.

Debbie Hall
Debbie Hall

August 05, 2020

Can use a small zig zag stitch which helps prevent breakage on knit clothes which will get stretched taking on and off…like shorts or swim suits.

Diane R
Diane R

August 05, 2020

I don’t have a favorite tip, I have problems enough sewing with other blends like nylon and silk.

Leann
Leann

August 05, 2020

Wow! Great tip – thank you so much for this!! Very useful!

Joy Olsen
Joy Olsen

August 05, 2020

I have not had a problem with sewing knits but will be anxious to try the coffee filter trick.

June Dame
June Dame

August 05, 2020

My favorite method to hem knits is to use a double needle and trim the back. Love the coffee filter method!

Sandy
Sandy

August 05, 2020

Another great idea from Cinnamon! Thanks!

Beth C
Beth C

August 05, 2020

I love using the coffee filter trick and also using a walking foot on my machine to sew knits!

Diana Gardner
Diana Gardner

August 05, 2020

I learned from Stretch and Sew about sewing with knits. I have had trouble sewing with the slippery knit fabrics not staying in place and getting an very ugly seam line. I am ready to try the coffee filter technique with a double needle for a finished look to hems and necklines.

Diana Gardner
Diana Gardner

August 05, 2020

I learned from Stretch and Sew about sewing with knits. I have had trouble sewing with the slippery knit fabrics not staying in place and getting an very ugly seam line. I am ready to try the coffee filter technique with a double needle for a finished look to hems and necklines.

Stephanie
Stephanie

August 05, 2020

I’ve never tried to sew on knits, but after reading these, I think I might like to try the coffee filter trick

Barb
Barb

August 05, 2020

My biggest challenge is finding time to sew even though my kids bug me all the time because they need new clothes and doll outfits. I have used tissue paper but I will try the coffee filter to see if that works.

CONNIE
CONNIE

August 05, 2020

I like this idea. Don’t know why I haven’t thought of this!

Dottie
Dottie

August 05, 2020

Sewing hems on knits is hard. The material stretches or gets caught in the feed dogs. I
can’t wait to try using a coffee filter!

J Tabler
J Tabler

August 05, 2020

My best sewing with knits tip is 1/4" seam tape. It does not need to be ironed, and stabilizes the project so it looks amazing when I am done. :)

Sandra
Sandra

August 05, 2020

I use coffee filters for every project.

Leslie Loren
Leslie Loren

August 05, 2020

Using coffee filters to stabilize knit fabric has made a big difference in my approach to sewing with knit fabrics. And I now have a use for that giant Costco size of filters for a coffee pot that failed several years ago! Thanks Cinnamon!

Kay
Kay

August 05, 2020

I always need help with knit fabrics. Thank you so much for the tips!!

candy
candy

August 05, 2020

If the knit fabric is really wonky I use stretch knit interfacing. It really helps. I would guess I got this idea from Cinnamon, many thanks.

Carol
Carol

August 05, 2020

I hate it when I get the whole garment done and looking nice, but the hem stretches out. Thanks for this tip.

anita
anita

August 05, 2020

I made all of my youngest child’s knit PJs and for the life of me don’t recall having to do anything special…but now I am apprehensive about sewing with knits since it has been so many years.

Karen W
Karen W

August 05, 2020

I have trouble with knits getting sucked in the machine but the coffee filter should eliminate that issue. Thanks!

Roxanna
Roxanna

August 05, 2020

I use strips of wash away stablizer on my knit projects. Left over scraps from embroidery projects are used as well.

Cheryl
Cheryl

August 05, 2020

Great tip! I have avoided sewing with knits and t-shirt fabric. Can’t wait to try this out. Thank you

Suebquilter
Suebquilter

August 05, 2020

Your coffee filter idea worked well on the last knit top I made for the dolls. Still working with small patterns like this can be challenging. Your videos are helpful.

Rhonda
Rhonda

August 05, 2020

I can’t wait to try this tip with knits!Thank you

al
al

August 05, 2020

I love the knits so doll can look like the child

Sparkle
Sparkle

August 05, 2020

Years ago I took several courses from a sewing store called “Stretch and Sew” where I learned many tips for sewing on knits. All this store dealt with were knit fabrics. What I remember is to use a ball point needle, use 9 stitches per inch as your machine setting and to stretch as you sew. I did not learn the coffee filter trick there, but I do like it. Thank you everyone at Pixie Faire.

bbuehler
bbuehler

August 05, 2020

Can’t wait to try coffee filter! Hate the wavy hes on knit fabrics—might also work well with sheer fabrics.

Florence
Florence

August 05, 2020

Thank you!! My biggest challenge is working with really lightweight knits! I’m looking forward to trying the coffee filter tip on those!

Connie
Connie

August 05, 2020

Make sure you’re not using a dull needle. I usually put in a new sharp needle when sewing with knits.

Angela
Angela

August 05, 2020

I haven’t done much sewing with knits, but my biggest problem is with the fabric stretching.

Mary
Mary

August 05, 2020

Like many others who have posted, I do not like sewing knits. I got Cinnamon’s knit course and watched it, but havent made anything (altho I did get the patterns suggested). I’m making a goal to make a knit outfit!

sheila
sheila

August 05, 2020

stretching is a problem that I resolve using washable quilting tape; it holds the knit hem firmly and washes out easily. I will have to try the double needle hint mentioned above—never used mine for anything.

Sandra L Barrett
Sandra L Barrett

August 05, 2020

Finding time to sew is my biggest challenge.

Jeri
Jeri

August 05, 2020

Knits are quite challenging for me – skipped stitches, stretching, fabric getting sucked in to the machine, which needle to use – I’m going to give it another try using these tips. Thanks!

Liana
Liana

August 05, 2020

Great tip! I sometimes use Wonder Tape on knit hems.

Mary
Mary

August 05, 2020

Good tip! I always have trouble at start of seam or hem when I sew with knits also. Thank you.

Candice Lacy
Candice Lacy

August 05, 2020

My challenge, keeping the fabric from being sucked into the footplate.

Tammy
Tammy

August 05, 2020

I like to use Best Press to stabilize my knits, especially on such small pieces.

Pat
Pat

August 05, 2020

I haven’t had problems in the past, but I like the idea of using coffee filters to stabilize helms on doll clothes.

joan ann Salerno
joan ann Salerno

August 05, 2020

Great idea using the coffee filter, much better tissue paper..

LaNan Eldridge
LaNan Eldridge

August 05, 2020

Very neat idea. With doll clothes you are not only dealing with stretchy materials but also smaller areas to sew. So this tip is going to make a difficult process much easier and definitely a neater finish! Thank you!

Moeb
Moeb

August 05, 2020

I was using tissue paper but found my stitches weren’t tight when I tore away the paper. I guess I have to tighten the tension. Coffee filters sound like a good idea.

Tracy
Tracy

August 05, 2020

I love using the 1/4 press in stretch stabilizer when hemming knits.

Susana
Susana

August 05, 2020

Go slowly!

cathy
cathy

August 05, 2020

using a stretch stitch when sewing helps.

Pamela
Pamela

August 05, 2020

I purchase new tee shirts on sale and use them to make doll shirts. The lower hem and sleeve hems are used for the doll shirt hems. Saves making my own hems!

E Warren
E Warren

August 05, 2020

I so needed this tutorial. Perfect timing as I’m sewing the t-shirt at the moment,or at least trying to. Ha ha.

Marge Johnson
Marge Johnson

August 05, 2020

My biggest sewing with knits problem is threading the needles and machines.

Pauline Hawkswell
Pauline Hawkswell

August 05, 2020

have patience

Joy S
Joy S

August 05, 2020

My favorite knit tip is that ironing or the dryer will restore the stretched out shape to normal.

Julie
Julie

August 04, 2020

I really try to stay away from sewing on knits…just because of the stretching.
I will definitely give this a try and hopefully expand my sewing to include knits for my dolls!
Thanks so much for all your great tips!

designdreamer
designdreamer

August 04, 2020

I guess my challenge AND tip would be sewing a knit hem with a double needle and also avoiding the channel or ridge that can sometimes occur: Use a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing in the area where the hem will be sewn!!

Connie
Connie

August 04, 2020

With knits they get squiggly and that usually throws my correctness off.

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