July 16, 2014

This week, I show you how to do a fairly easy, couture edge finish -- basically, you bind the raw edges of your seam allowance using bias strips.

All you need is some fabric to finish, and a few strips of bias.

It's important to use bias for this technique for several reasons. First, cutting the fabric on the bias (or, 45 degrees from the straight grain) gives it greater flexibility. Bias also doesn't fray, which is a plus since this technique leaves one edge of the binding unfinished on the back of the seam allowance.

OK, enough fabric education -- let's get binding!

Lay a 1" wide strip of bias over your edge to be finished. Stitch along the edge at 1/4" seam allowance.

Then, press the strip away from the fabric, and wrap it around to the back. The key word here is wrap, you don't want to make extra bulk for yourself by folding up the seam allowance underneath the binding. (You can trim the seam allowance down if you need to.)

The binding should overlap your first line of stitching by about 3/16" or so; pin it down, and then from the right side, machine-stitch next to the original binding seam. Ta da!

You can do a hong-kong finish on curved edges, like this one:

(Getting a smooth curve is much easier if you pre-press the bias strip into shape.)

You can also substitute strips of tulle for the bias strips; this is especially handy for binding delicate fabrics, like lace or chiffons.

Or, if the binding fabric you want to use is really lightweight, and you don't want to have a raw edge on the backside, you can cut a wider strip of bias, fold it in half, and then proceed as normal. Just make sure the folded edge is the one you wrap to the back. :)

And that's it!

Do you have a favorite way of finishing edges? Have you ever used a hong-kong finish? Let us know in the comments, we'd love to hear from you!

Thanks for following along today!

For Pixie Faire,
Melinda

33 Comments

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Brooke

August 10, 2018

I know this is pretty old and I don’t expect an answer, but I’ll give it a shot.
I’ve seen many blogs about Hong Kong seams and bound seams. All say to do them after construction. Is there a reason why you wouldn’t do them before? Seems like it’s be easier as long as you plan ahead, i.e. when a zipper is going on along a seam, that would be when you’d need to do it after the zip is installed. Just so seeing if there was some other down side.

Karma

November 02, 2017

I’ve used this process for years on neck edges and waistbands but it was called ‘stitch in the ditch’.

Paula

September 22, 2017

I use this edge on all of the clothes I make. NO MORE FACINGS! It is so much nicer looking and the edging stays in place, no escapees!

Megan

June 09, 2017

Can you post a picture of the backs of those pieces? It looks beautiful from the front, but if you’re binding seam allowance, the back will be seen too, and I’m wondering about that raw edge.

I have used bias tape folded in half to wrap around quilts and potholders.

BRENDA N.

June 03, 2017

Prior to having a Serger, often finished seams this way as a zig-zag finish never appealed to me. That said; in lieu of tule on open weaved fabrics, one can also use organza cut on the bias which also provides a bit of body to what otherwise might be a flimsy edge.

Donna

March 22, 2017

Im going to try this on the boys pj top. It doesn’t have a collar. I hate just folding an edge over. Lol

RanelaMakes

February 11, 2017

Our clothes when I was younger was hand made, and our tailor used this seam.

Noel

January 18, 2017

Love this tutorial on how to do a beautiful Hong Kong finish. I can think of several fabrics in my stash that will finish off so much better with the tulle option, and this use as a binding for outfits will look so lovely on our Liberty Jane patterns! Going to see if it will work on a neckline, too.

One of my New Year’s resolutions— make the most of the sewing techniques posted here, and to learn to use all the buttons and feet that are on my sewing machine.

Thanks!

Bev

January 11, 2017

Great ideas! Can’t wait to try!

Jan

January 11, 2017

This is lovely seam finish! I learned this in my Apparel Design and Developement course in college 25 years ago. As someone else mentioned, it is the perfect seam finish for an unlined garment. It is the upscale and less bulky seam finish than serging.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/28951/how-to-sew-a-hong-kong-finish

Pam

July 06, 2016

Love the patterns and the dolls are beautiful.

MARY

February 19, 2016

I don’t understand. Why would you leave one side of the bias unfinished. Doesn’t that add bulk. You have 1 inch bias, you make a 1/4 inch seam, now you have the rest of the width of the bias just sticking out. Makes more sense to enclose the whole seam allowance.

Clara

February 19, 2016

This is what I use in all my bias attachments. But I was taught the “Stitch in the ditch”. Same thing. Gives a really nice finish and appearance to the finished item. I use on all fabrics.

Elizabeth

February 19, 2016

I learned this technique when I took a Haute Couture course from Richard Robinson in the early 70s. I was in his very first class of 5 students. A great technique for silk and other fine fabrics.

Kathy

February 19, 2016

How timely, I am just starting a princess doll dress, and the tulle idea for a finish is just what I need for the fabric. Thanks!

Hope

February 09, 2016

This was really interesting.

Louise

November 20, 2015

Thank you, What a great tutorial.
Look forward to trying this technique soon

Jo Ann Little

November 20, 2015

Love this ! thanks for the free Hong Kong info

Barbara

June 09, 2015

Depending on the fabric, I would use fusible thread in the bobbin. Then iron instead of pinning before sewing down.

Pat

December 03, 2014

I could have used this today while making AG clothes, thanks for sharing it.

zola braidwood

August 23, 2014

I needed to put cording around an item that had two layers. I used 1 " bias tap opened it up pressed in in half. Then inserted the bias tape so just the very small edge showed. Then stitched all 3 layers at one time. nice finished look and another press if needed.

carol

August 15, 2014

I loved the tulle idea. Nice to learn something new at 63!!

Diana

August 08, 2014

I have used this method for years but I have never thought of using tulle for binding delicate fabrics. Thanks for the fine tutorial and great tip!

Melinda

August 04, 2014

Hey Janet,
Not sure how it came to be called a “Hong Kong finish” — that’s just the name I have always heard it called. It may have originated there, or maybe it was named that to add a dash of foreign intrigue! In any case, it’s one of my favorite techniques.
Love your tip about using your machine feet to save time!

Sandra, I totally agree — there’s nothing like this finish to control loosely woven fabric edges. :)

Julie

July 22, 2014

I always just called this a stitch in the ditch finish.

Sheila

July 18, 2014

Your last example is exactly how quilt binding by machine is done. It is a nice finish option.

Marge R (mer)

July 18, 2014

Don’t believe I’ve ever heard of the Hong Kong finish, but I like it!!! Think this would be fabulous on sooo many Pixie Faire projects — must try it soon. TFS your knowledge with us! ;~)

Sandra Gent

July 18, 2014

Hong Kong finish is good for loosely woven fabric and unlined jackets

Janet

July 18, 2014

I also wanted to add. If you have a “Binding Foot” (Baby Lock & Brother) there is other machines that have them. This Hong Kong finish can be done in one step. Use you sewing machine feet to save time.

Janet

July 18, 2014

Thanks melinda,
I am curious. Why do people call this a “Hong Kong” finish? I am an older lady. "Back in my time ( the 1960’s) we called it making your own bias tape and applying it to the edge of the fabric.Now I do LOVE “French” seams.( big smile here)
With the use of sergers I think many seams are done with an overlock. So going back to basics is a fun way to add color..It really changes an outfit don’t you think?
I use my applique scissors to get a close cut so it turns nicely.
Here is another great link with more information and photos about the Hong Kong finish.
.http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/09/hong-kong-seam-finish/
-Janet

Marian

July 17, 2014

This finish is great. I have used it for children & adults but not yet for my AG sewing. Thanks for the reminder!!

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July 16, 2014

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33 Comments

hunblvqrzn

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Brooke

Karma

Paula

Megan

BRENDA N.

Donna

RanelaMakes

Noel

Bev

Jan

Pam

MARY

Clara

Elizabeth

Kathy

Hope

Louise

Jo Ann Little

Barbara

Pat

zola braidwood

carol

Diana

Melinda

Julie

Sheila

Marge R (mer)

Sandra Gent

Janet

Janet

Marian

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