Sideless Surcote Ensemble Medieval Collection 18" Doll Clothes Pattern

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This pattern is inspired by 13-14th century England and Western Europe Medieval clothes worn by women of the time.
I have kept this pattern historically accurate yet some things need changing when scaling down to doll size.

In the 13 to 14th Century, clothes were worn in layers. Therefore there are a few pieces included in this PDF pattern to create your ensemble. The various pieces also allows for a variety of looks.

Whether your doll likes to be a Middle-Ages re-enactor or play fantasy princess dress up, this ensemble will be perfect.

Pattern includes:

  • Kirtle The seam down the front allows for the kirtle to be sewn in

    Parti-Colour. This is the original color blocking where two colors are seen in one garment piece. Optional eyelet closure, hook-and-eye or hook- and-loop closure.

  • Sideless Surcote Worn over the Kirtle and was high fashion at the time. Optional hook-and-eye or hook-and-loop closure.

  • Belt

  • Headdress Create five pieces which can be worn in various ways and combinations. I do give more details in the pattern for you to make your choice. Includes a Barbette, Fillet, Wimple and Veil with Circlet

This PDF sewing pattern is designed to fit 18" dolls such as American Girl®. 

Recommended Fabrics: For this pattern you could use a light to medium weight woven fabric such as linen or cotton twill. Easy to drape fabric give a beautiful look. Light weight wool crepe or raw silk.

  • Period appropriate fabric choices include: Wool, linen, silk or silk velvet.
  • About Silk — Smooth silk was preferred. Slubby or irregular weaves such as silk noil or dupioni were considered imperfect and coarse. Damasks and jacquards are an option.
  • Lining — Light weight cotton
  • Headdress fabric — Light weight cotton. For the wimple that goes under the chin and veil you want something that is light with some drape.
  • Belt — Vinyl, marine vinyl, mock suede. You want to use a vinyl that has a leather look to it.

Supplies Needed:


  • Kirtle Fabric — 16” x 42”
  • Sleeve Lining — 4”x 11”
  • Parti-Color Kirtle Fabric — 16” x 21” (x2 Two Colors) Surcote Fabric — 15.5” x 32”
  • Surcote Lining — 8” x 19”
  • Headdress Fabric —15” x 30”
  • Belt Vinyl — 1/2" x 22”
  • Optional: Fusible Interfacing — 12” x 12”


  • Narrow Ribbon/Cord for sleeves — 26”
  • Optional: 1/8” Narrow Ribbon/Braid for Surcote — 32” 1/4” Eyelets Kirtle Sleeves — x12
  • Metallic Elastic Cord for Circlet (headband) — 11” Metal buckle inside measurement of 3/8” — x1

Closure Options for Kirtle and Surcote


  • Hook-and-Loop Tape 5/8” Width — 4”
  • Hook and Eyes — x6
  • 1/4” Eyelets Kirtle Back — x12 Ribbon/Cord Cross over lacing — 22”
  • 1/4” Eyelets Kirtle Back — x10 Ribbon/Cord Offset Lacing — 13”

Skill Level:  Easy to Intermediate

What You Get: One 26 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.

Download, Print, Sew!

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Pixie Faire and the designers featured are not affiliated with American Girl®

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