Pixie Faire Style Guide 1940s Fashion For Dolls
We’ve put together the ultimate guide to help you make a historically accurate 1940s look for your doll, such as Molly McIntire®! This period of history was dominated by World War II, which lasted from 1939 to 1945 (the United States, however, did not enter the war until December of 1941, after the bombing of Pearl Harbor). Despite only lasting six years, the war had an impactful influence on the fashion industry, both domestically and abroad. To understand 1940s fashion, focus on these five key components: separates, dresses, utility clothes, girls’ clothing, and accessories. Use these elements to put together your own 1940s outfit for your doll.
WWII AND THE AMERICAN FASHION INDUSTRY
The American fashion industry would probably not be where it is today without World War II. Before World War II, Americans copied their fashions from Europe. Some American brands would actually go so far as to send “spies” over to Paris to watch their runways and sketch down the latest looks as quickly as possible. These sketches would then be brought back to the United States where they would be put into production for the American market. When the war broke out across Europe, nearly all fashion houses were shut down. The fashion industry was especially hard hit when the Germans started their occupation of Paris in 1940. Between no new looks coming from Europe and the United States still living a somewhat peaceful life outside of the war, America was in need of clothing. This encouraged the development of the American fashion industry which has since become one of the leading influences in the fashion world.
SEPARATES
One favored look of the 1940s were separates for women, particularly the skirt suit. When the men went off to fight in the war, the women had to pick up the slack on the home front. Women worked in factories, businesses, and even in the military and each one needed something to wear. Hence the skirt suit emerged, which was both business professional and still feminine. It could be casually worn for errands or decorated for military officers. The popular jacket style for skirt suits was well-tailored with boxy, padded shoulders, and peplum-waisted (which emphasized the hour-glass figure that was highly favored at the time). The skirt of the suit would fall past the knee and could either be full or tight depending on the occasion.
DRESSES
When women weren’t needing special clothes for the workforce, they would still often opt for dresses. Dresses were often simplistic and plain due to the war. Hemlines were cut to the knee and extraneous embellishments were removed to keep the clothes from becoming too wasteful. Skirts on dresses were A-line shaped to give flare, without using too much fabric. Sleeves were shorter (to the elbow or above) and had very little extra puff to preserve fabric usage. Like the jackets of the skirt suits, shoulders were boxy and often accentuated using shoulder pads. Dresses nearly always had belts made of coordinating or matching fabrics and larger, military-inspired lapels. Popular neckline styles on dresses ranged from V-neck to sweetheart necklines. Other popular dress styles at the time included button-down shirt dresses and wrap dresses.
UTILITY CLOTHES
Born from necessity, utility clothes were some of the most dominating items during the 1940s. Clothing and textiles were rationed because of the ongoing war and the tireless war effort. In places like Britain, where the war was particularly bad, government-mandated rationing was taken to the extreme. Utility clothes were effortlessly practical. They were made to be worn across all the seasons only using specific, carefully curated, and government-rationed fabrics. They were designed with simple lines and rarely featured extraneous trimmings. The line of utility garments ranged from menswear to childrenswear and covered everything in between. Removing pockets, thinning collars, reducing the number of buttons, and other measures were taken to ensure that no large amount of fabric was being used unnecessarily. It has been estimated that because of the austerity utility clothing, nearly 4 million square yards of cotton (not including other popular fabrics) were saved for the war effort.
GIRLS’ CLOTHING TRENDS
Like through much of history, girl’s clothing in the 1940s followed somewhat closely with what their mothers or older sisters would wear. During the 1940s, girls would mostly wear dresses with simple lines, similar to shapes that adult women would wear. Girls’ dresses, however, would feature many more frills than their adult counterparts. Things like lace, ribbons, smocking, and extra buttons were added to make outfits feel more youthful and fun. Shorts for casual wear were also introduced into girls’ wardrobes during this time because they used less fabric (which was good for rationing) and were more comfortable (which was good for play). Rationing coupons and limitations were more flexible for children’s wear during this time because children outgrow clothes quickly. Newly developed synthetic fabrics (see FABRIC AND PRINTS below) were favored for children’s wear because it made the clothes more durable and less costly to produce and purchase. Also important to note during this era was the division between “girl colors” and “boy colors.” For one of the first times in history color differentiation between the genders was taking place. Girls adopted colors like the traditional pink or other pastels and boy took on darker, more masculine looking colors like blue, green, or grey.
ACCESSORIES
Even though the world was desperate to reserve extraneous goods during the war, women still found ways to accessorize properly. Apart from stockings, other popular accessories at the time were belts, gloves, and headscarves. As mentioned in the dresses section above, belts were nearly always featured on dresses, or even on women’s pants and skirt suits too. Belts at the time were thin, plain, and fabric-covered to match outfits. Past the early 1940s, belts did not feature metal buckles because of the metal rationing at the time. Instead, a tie-front belt was the most popular style during the war. After the war, belts became larger, featured metal closures, and came in many different materials, like leather or plastic (which weren’t offered during the war). Gloves were always worn outside of the house and were made out of leather or suede whenever possible. They were usually made in neutral colors so that they could be worn with many different outfits. Sometimes they would be coordinated to the hat for an extra-stylish look. One final popular accessory of the 1940s would have been the headscarf. Headscarves were large, triangular fabric cuts (usually rayon, or, if possible, silk), and tied around the head to protect women’s hair and keep it out of their faces. They are one of the most iconic women’s accessories from the 1940s thanks to the Rosie the Riveter drawings.
FABRIC AND PRINTS
Despite the darkness of the world (and maybe even in defiance to it), womenswear throughout the 1940s opted for vibrant and happy colors. While some colors did come in and out of popularity throughout the decade, colors like navy blue, pink, golden yellow, red, and a range of greens were consistently popular. In the summer, pastel versions of these colors were most commonly used. During the winter, stronger and bolder versions of these colors were used. These colors were used in a variety of prints, but the most favored were polka dots, plaids, stripes, checks, florals, and abstract prints. The desired fabric choices of the time were rayon, wool, cotton, jersey knit, velvet, or even silk on rare occasions. Take a look below for our suggested fabric choices!
Light Pink Ditsy Floral from Joann Fabrics
Buffalo Check Cotton from Joann Fabrics
Royal White Dot from Joann Fabrics
Heathered Brown Solid Wool Flannel from Mood Fabrics
Pea Green Rose Floral from Mood Fabrics
Pixie Faire offers a wide variety of 1940s inspired patterns for a variety of doll sizes Check out the full collection HERE!
We'd love to see your creations too, so if you make one, please tag us on Instagram @PixieFaire
You can also share pictures in the Pixie Faire Inspiration Gallery right here on the website, either use the #pixiefaire when posting on IG, or just click the little + box to upload your picture right here on the website!
Thanks everyone!
For Pixie Faire, Katie
(This post and giveaway are not endorsed or affiliated with American Girl®, no endorsement implied.)
We’d love to hear from you. Please leave a comment and tell us, What fashion element of the 40s do you admire most?
In spite of the simplicity, the styles were very feminine.
I love the clean lines and absolutely love the headscarves, such an iconic look.
I love the way the dresses are made simply but are still pretty.
I am a product of the 40’s having been born in that era I really like the look I bought the pattern last Friday I can’t wait to make these dresses there are so many ways to add to make each dress appear completely different I have been choosing fabric hope to cut and sew very soon.
Really interesting article. Thank you for inspiring us to buy the period appropriate material and patterns. The links to these help a lot.
with limited resources they could make the best of the circumstances. 40’s fashion fit the era and in their own way added a unique sense of style..I love it
I really like the clean, tailored lines on the skirt suits and casual dresses. It’s wonderful that women’s clothing was not only modest but feminine too and the color choices were lovely!
I like the skirt suit of the 1940’s.
Very interesting article! American ingenuity at work.
I love the colors and choices of fabric available in 1940’s fashion. The bright colors are wonderful even though dark things happened during the era. I also love the focus more on different types and styles of clothes for kids and adults because in previous eras children’s clothes were just mini versions of adult clothes which made it difficult for children to play in.
Classy even though materials were sometimes dark and thick. Flashy buttons!
I really like the clean lines of the 1940’s suits. The style with the skirt variations, looked good on many body types,. and the choice of fabric could dress it up ir down,
I love the structure and tailoring of the 1940s garments.
I was a child of the forties! I see outfits I would have worn!
I love the tailored, classic 1940s fashions.
I love the simplicity of the designs, and the fact that many of the shapes would still hold up as stylish today!
Thanks for all the great inspiration!
I like them b cause they were very cute and modest fashions.
I love the women’s suits and dresses. So tailored and classy.
I love the fashions of the 40’s. Even every day dresses had a style and class of their own. My MIL was in the Army during WWII and I find it fascinating the similarities of her uniforms and the suits women wore back then.
I was born in the late 50’s, but even from a young age was fascinated with the styles of the 40’s. Music from that era is basically all I still listen to.
I love the frills, ruffles and tiers in the 1940s dresses
I love how well made the clothing was. They flattered a woman’s figure while being modest at the same time. The girls dresses were varied and very imaginative. No “cookie cutter” styles.
I love all historical fashion, including the 40’s. Thank you Pixie Faire for including them in your product line.
I was born in 1941 and have a few pictures of my mom, she never wore clothes like these because we lived on a farm. I am always intrigued by the styles of the 40’s.
I love how resourceful they were, altering fashions to help the war efforts. My grandma told me during the Great Depression, and maybe even the war, hemlines went up to preserve materials, but went back down again as soon as it was possible.
I think the 40s fashions may be my favorite.
love the 40s fashion
The thing I love best about 1940s fashions is the many ways they thought of to trim dresses, and also the mixing of fabrics, thus perhaps using leftovers from one outfit to add to another one. For instance, a dress might have contrasting sleeves and collar. (I was born in the 40s, and some of those trends carried into the early 50s, so I do remember wearing some of them!)
I love the neat and tidy look of the suits and the pretty dresses.
I love the pretty prints and lace.
I love how classy and modest the dresses were for girls and women back then. I especially love the accents used such as lace and ruffles, on the dresses. I also love the smocking some dresses had.
These clothes remind me of photos of my mum, when she was young. She’s nearly 94 now and still remembers things like these that she wore.
I like the feminine features of the dresses, the colors of the fabrics used and the pleats. So fun to copy this style in doll clothes!
I love the dresses
I loved the classy suits and hats that the women of the 40’s wore. They remind me of the few pictures that I have of her.
My mom was in the army during WW2 and then was married when the war ended. I love all the pictures of her wardrobe at that time. I would love to win so I could get my great granddaughter an American Girl doll and make it a wardrobe. Thank you for your generosity.
I like utility clothes
Being old enough to remember wearing them I especially like the emphasis on being feminine in cut and detail. in 40’s clothing.
I love the fabrics and crisp styles of the dresses.
I loved the black and white saddle shoes the school girls wore in the 1940’s. My mother had them on in all her pictures. They also wore hand knit sweaters, very plain, to save yarn, no cables or fancy work.
The women’s suits were so classy! Love them.
I was born in 1942, so my memories of the 40’s fashion are the photos of mom and me! Brings great joy!
I love the lacy trims and princess seams that were used. Peter Pan collars were lovely too.
I especially love the peplum jackets and the hats! So classy.
I like the dresses for younger girls that aren’t miniature replicas of women’s dresses. The girls’ dresses are cute, feminine, and modest, unlike the choices today for young girls.
I love the 40’s era because everyone was dressed up to travel or work and even to shop! They looked tidy and neat and cared about their appearance.
I love the 40’s era because everyone was dressed up to travel or work and even to shop! They looked tidy and neat and cared about their appearance.
I love the 40’s era because everyone was dressed up to travel or work and even to shop! They looked tidy and neat and cared about their appearance.
the 40s are so classy!
I love the detail of the 1940s dresses
I love all the beautiful dresses.
The era of the first women’s “power suit”! With there clean lines, yet subtle feminine details, the dresses and suits of this era are awesome! I also love the accessory hats, shoes, gloves, and handbags. Just an amazing era of fashion.
I like the feminine dresses, and tailored styles.
Love the belts and iconic headscarfs.
What I love the most about the 40’s fashion was the hats, gloves and shoes! But the dresses too.
I love the clean, yet feminine, lines of 40s clothes.
I like the idea that women could take on the workforce when their men were away.
I loved this article about the forty’s clothing and styles… Very informative. I love the modest look to the clothes in the forties. Very stylish, simple yet with a touch of class..
The 1940’s was one of my favorite eras, it was all about class, hats, gloves, and dressed properly. We no longer do that type of class or clothing, which to me, is sad.
I love the 40’s apparel. I love the classy looks of the dresses and the material that was used. Because everyone seemed skinny, the dresses always looked very flattering. I think that was the era I should have been born in.
Thank you for the fabric links!
My favorite skirt the A line skirt
I really love the dresses in this era ! They look so comfy for any body type
I love the hats and gloves! Ladies always looked proper when leaving the house!
These styles are wonderful. As my mother lived and worked as a young girl through the war, she wore a lot of the different styles. It would be fun to replicate some of her clothing. Sure wish she still had some of her dresses.
I like the simple clean lines and structure of 1940’s fashion
I am a fan of 1940’s fashion and look forward to sewing in this style!
I like the feminine dresses, flattering any figure.
I love the refreshing and pure simplicity of the 40’s fashions- they call to me for some reason
The styles were made for women. They were flattering, but practical
My mother was a young woman in nursing school in the early 40’s and married my Dad on his weekend leave before he went over seas to the war. When he came home from the war they truly started their 61 year love story. I have always enjoyed looking at their early pictures. The pretty day dresses she wore as well as the special holiday outfits she made. Her clothing in the forties really showed her personality. The styles she liked, the colors and prints; the pictures gave me a glimpse into who she was before i was born. I loved her style.
I love the dresses for the little girls. Brings back memories. My sisters and I always word
dresses, modest styles, unlike modern styles for young girls. I also loved reading how the
styles sometimes came to be because they were saving material to share for the war efforts.
For myself: Suit jackets! My mother was married (in the 40s) wearing a suit with the lace touches on the collar and cuffs from her blouse peaking out, rather than the traditional white wedding dress. For dolls: I love the mix of feminine and masculine elements; like the plaid shirts and “dungarees” styled with rolled up socks, saddle shoes and head scarves. I also love the sweetheart necklines and the pinafore dresses with the ruffles for sleeves all touched lovingly with rick-rack, lace and piping.
When I look at old pictures of my mother from the 40’s I see her wearing clothing that are the exact same styles shown in the article above. My mom looked so beautiful, feminine and classy wearing the 40’s styles-the article brought back wonderful memories of my mom!!
Love all the information you provided. I love 1940’s style clothing, the suits and tailored skirts and jackets.
I’m very much interested in the 1940’s and the fashion from that era. I love how clothes were so well fitted, it wasn’t a “one size fits all” . I also love how stylish and feminine they were! The hats were also such a great finishing touch.
I have Nanea and I would love to be able to add on to her wardrobe by having access to other patterns from the 1940’s. I’m actually looking for a pattern to make Molly’s 1944 swimsuit. My daughter who is also an AG collector loves that era, so I’m sewing for her dolls as well.
Thanks for sharing a 1940’s guide and for the patterns already available :)
I like the fact that in the 40s the women and girls wore dresses all the time, even when they were working. And I love the style of the women’s dresses with the hats and gloves. 😊
God bless!
♡Rosabelle♡
Brings me back to my grandpa’s war stories and interviewing my great-grandma for a history project in grade school.
I love the vintage fabrics.
I love the fullness of the children’s clothes of the 1940’s. The little girls dressed so cute.
Loved reading about the history of fashion in the 40"s.
I was a teenager during the 1940s and made my first dress in my Home Economics Class. We had to use ration coupons to purchase fabrics for sewing so, mostly, we made a dress from used fabrics from a discarded dress. We would carefully take apart the old dress, snipping the threads along each seam. Then we would carefully wash the pieces and iron them. It was like a puzzle to lay out the pattern pieces on the pieces from the old dress, and then sew them together. We were so proud of our new dress when it was completed and we enjoyed having a “new” dress to wear.
The greatest generation was willing to sacrifice for others.
Such classy & classic styles in the 40’s. Really appreciate the design elements and quality that is missing from today’s clothing.
I love the jackets and their professional, yet feminine look.
I love that girls mostly wore dresses in the 1940s & on into the 1950s. Slacks & shorts were rarely worn. And everyone dresses up to go shopping – dresses with gloves & nylons & hats for the women; even the girls would wear a dresss with gloves & hats & anklets & dressy shoes. (I was born in the 1940s)
What I love most of the 1940s era is the dresses of the girls, because they were made in more detail with ornaments, they were beautiful and youthful.
I love the little girl dresses. They look so sweet and not like inappropriate women’s clothing
you see so often in modern clothing for children.
The 40’s style elements that I like the is the feminine tailored look, it is a look that I feel flatters most body types.
Thank you for the informative article about ’40s fashion.
I love the versatility of the 40s designs. Play clothes are functional yet fashionable
I love the simple lines and the vintage prints.
What I like most about 1940’s fashion is the hairstyles!
I really have appreciated all the articles you have shared on period clothng for dolls. Thank you.
What I love most of the 1940s era is the little girl clothing. It is simple yet girly.
What I like about the 1940’s clothing is the tailored look.
Learned a lot about the post war clothing and why. Well written. I always learn something here.
I like working with reproduction prints for 40s style. I also love that little girls’ dresses look like they were made for little girls, not for girls much older, as many of today’s clothes are.
Althea G.
June 15, 2022
This was an aha moment for me “It has been estimated that because of the austerity utility clothing, nearly 4 million square yards of cotton (not including other popular fabrics) were saved for the war effort.” Wow.