Early Era Victorian Fashion For Dolls - A Pixie Faire Style Guide

We’ve put together the ultimate guide to help you make a historically accurate early Victorian period look for your 18-inch and other size dolls!  The Victorian era lasted from the 1830s until 1901 (when the Edwardian era began).  This style guide will cover from the 1830s through the 1860s as styles stayed somewhat similar during this time period (watch for our part two article about the later years of Victorian fashion, coming soon). 

The Victorian era was named after the British Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901.

Fun Fact:  up until 2015 she was the longest reigning British monarch of all time and is still today the tenth longest reigning monarch in all of world history. 

The fashion of the early Victorian period was defined by full skirts, poufy sleeves, and tight corsets all of which were set into style by the Queen herself.  Victoria’s influence on fashion not only stretched across the Commonwealth but also over to the United States as well, especially on the East Coast where America was on the brink of the Civil War. 

 

1830s

The 1830s is the earliest period in Victorian fashion and it diverted quite a bit from the previous several decades.  Since the change of the eighteenth to the nineteenth century, women’s dresses became smaller with less volume.  The 1830s reintroduced volume and excess in women’s fashion.  This can be seen through the popularization of the gigot Sleeve, which is a French word referring to the back leg of an animal.  It is an edited version of a leg-o-mutton sleeve where the sleeve is wide and voluminous at the top but narrow at the bottom. 

Skirts of dresses featured many pleats, embellishments starting around the kneeline, and hems that ended at the ankles.  Bodices had off-the-shoulder necklines, were tight, and ended slightly below the waist in a point.  They were nearly always accentuated with sashes, belts, or other ties.  Evening and formal dresses would resemble day dresses in silhouette but would often feature shorter sleeves that were still puffed and more decorations.  To finish the look, the most women would wear their hair parted down the middle and tightly pulled back into a low bun with ringlets surrounding their faces and sometimes falling over their buns.  To try it yourself, you can check out this tutorial.

 

1840s

The 1840s stayed somewhat similar to the 1830s in terms of style and fashion.  One of the main differences was the change in bodice style.  Dress bodices still ended slightly below the waist at a point.  They were now worn with a higher neckline that ended with a collar or sometimes a shallow v-neck that modestly did not show any cleavage.  The armscye was dropped and started lower off of the true shoulder line than before with less dramatic sleeves.  Sleeves were still large and slimmed at the cuffs, but their volume was now distributed more evenly than in the 1830s.  Long sleeves were worn for day dresses and short sleeves were worn for formal wear.  The hems on the skirts of dresses dropped back down to the ground during this decade as well.  It is also important to note that starting in the 1840s skirts became progressively fuller until the 1860s where the plateaued for a bit, then they shrunk back down starting in the 1870s. 

The popular Hairstyle stayed fairly similar to the 1830s except instead of ringlets framing the face, the face was now surrounded by tight braids that looped below the ears (you can try it yourself using this tutorial).  It is also interesting to note how much clothing women wore at once during the 1840s and 1850s specifically.  Women wore up to five layers of clothing daily that consisted of a dozen individual pieces:  a chemise, a corset, bloomers, stockings, petticoats (sometimes multiple petticoats), a crinoline (also known as a hoop skirt), a dress (which could be up to two pieces, see below), sleeves (separate from the sleeves attached to the bodice), a shawl, a bonnet, gloves, and a parasol.

 

1850s

In the 1850s hems on dresses raised once again back to the ankles or slightly above.  Day dresses were still worn featuring tight bodices and full sleeves, but the sleeves changed shape during this era.  Popular sleeve styles included bell, bishop, and pagoda sleeves.  Each of these sleeve types were different from the previous decades because they did not lose their fullness near the wrist, in fact, they grew larger towards the wrists.  Lace collars on the necklines of dresses were popularized during this time.  A new trend in women’s fashion that appeared were jackets and jacket type bodices.  Jackets at this time usually had pagoda-style sleeves with a v-shape opening in the front to expose the bodice underneath.  They closed near the collar usually with only one fastener which was most likely either a tie, a frog clasp, or a hook-and-eye.  Jackets most often were worn cropped and ended at the waistline on gowns.  Another interesting innovation in the 1850s was the introduction of two-piece dresses.  These were still considered to be dresses although they contained two parts:  a bodice and a skirt.  Most women had two or more bodices per skirt that were all made from the same fabric.  This made it so the same dress could be worn for multiple occasions just by changing the bodice.

 

1860s

The main evolution in womenswear in the 1860s was the introduction of the Garibaldi blouse.  These blouses were looser bodices that had large, loose, low-starting sleeves.  They were usually collarless with buttons running up the front or the back as a closure.  This is one of the first instances where buttons were chosen over laces for a closure. Skirt styles stayed the similar to the previous decade.  In America, the 1860s were dominated by the Civil War, which had a direct influence on fashion, as most world events do.  Women during this period were near-constantly wearing mourning clothes because of the gruesome war (not-so-fun fact:  the Civil War had the most American casualties of any war America has fought in—over 620,000 deaths).  A widow at the time was expected to wear mourning clothes for at least a year.  These clothes consisted of dresses made of black bombazine fabric (which was a durable, twill silk textile that had a matte finish), a widow’s cap, black cuffs on her dress, a black collar, black petticoats, black stockings, and a black parasol.  The next stage of mourning was from the period between twelve to eighteen months after her husband’s death.  During this period, she could wear nicer fabrics, such as silk or wool (instead of bombazine), black jewelry, and black ribbons.  The third and final phase of mourning happened after eighteen months, during which she could begin to wear “half-mourning” colors such as grey, purple, mauve, or lavender, with her black attire.  A daughter in mourning only had to wear all black for the first six months and then half-mourning for the following two.

 

COLORS AND PRINTS

During the period from the 1830s to the 1860s alkaline dyes were invented and often used.  These dyes work by forming chemical reactions between natural fibers in the textiles and the dye molecules using the pH scale.  The dye molecules form a covalent bond with the fabric that makes it nearly impossible to wash out the color if done correctly.  Because of this, beautiful and more vibrant shades like indigo, lavender, yellow, and various shades of blue and red became popular and attainable.  Other popular colors were more natural colors like brown or black.  Popular fabrics during this time were silk, cotton, and wool (or various blends that contained some of each).  These fabrics also came in a variety of prints like small geometric patterns, florals, and large plaids.  Solids, however, were still the most popular choice and were often embellished with lace, embroidery, and/or ribbons.  You can take a look below for some of our suggested fabric choices:

Packed Leaves Cotton from Joann Fabrics

Reverie Ice Pink Polyester Satin from Mood Fabrics

Black Silk and Cotton Dull Satin from Mood Fabrics

Chestnut and White Tartan Plaid Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Red Leaf Texture Cotton Fabric from Joann Fabrics    

 

Pixie Faire offers a wide variety of early Victorian period-inspired patterns, like the Gigot Sleeve Dress by Thimbles and Acorns, pictured above. 

View the Early Victorian Era 1830s-1860s Fashions Collection today!

 

 

We’d love to hear from you.  Please leave a comment and tell us which decade between 1830s to the 1860s the picture above is from*!

We'd love to see your creations too, so if you make one, please tag us on Instagram @PixieFaire

You can also share pictures in the Pixie Faire Inspritation Gallery right here on the website, either use the #pixiefaire when posting on IG, or just click the little + box to upload your picture right here on the website!

Thanks everyone!

For Pixie Faire, Katie

(This post and giveaway are not endorsed or affiliated with American Girl®, no endorsement implied.) 

We’d love to hear from you. Please leave a comment and tell us which decade between 1830s to the 1860s the picture above is from. (1830, 1840, 1850, or 1860)


100 Comments

Laura
Laura

May 11, 2022

I see this as a dress from the 1840"s

Leigh Ellen Murphy
Leigh Ellen Murphy

May 11, 2022

Remembering the waist line, the dress is from the 1840’s.

Jann
Jann

May 11, 2022

I believe this style dress represents the 1840’s.

Diane
Diane

May 11, 2022

I will say it is the 1840, the way it is design. I love all the styles.

Michelle
Michelle

May 11, 2022

I really enjoyed reading this article. Thank you for sharing it with us. My guess is also the 1840’s.

Bonnie
Bonnie

May 11, 2022

my best guess is 1840’s

Joy
Joy

May 11, 2022

I don’t think styles changed that much in 10 years, so I’ll go with 1830’s.

Maretta
Maretta

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Tamara G
Tamara G

May 11, 2022

I’m going to say 1840’s due to the lowered armscyes and pointed low waistline. Thanks for the thorough historical fashion info!

Bettie
Bettie

May 11, 2022

I have been doing CW civilian reenacting for the pass 20+ years. Dresses were remade in many cases because of the costs of fabric. Thank you for writing the article. Because of the V in the front of the bodice, I will agree that it is a 1840’s dress.

Wendy
Wendy

May 11, 2022

1840. I love this period of dress.

Mary
Mary

May 11, 2022

Looks like 1840s to me. I love this type of content and I LOVE period patterns!

Pam B
Pam B

May 11, 2022

It is the 1840’s although fashion seldom changes exactly when the decade changes and gradual changes happen that overlap, too. Just like music!

Jeannie
Jeannie

May 11, 2022

B. 1840’s

Kathleen
Kathleen

May 11, 2022

B. 1840s

Becky
Becky

May 11, 2022

1840s. Beautiful waistline!

Donna B
Donna B

May 11, 2022

I love this article! I’ve wondered about the different eras. I think 1840 due to high neckline, close fitting sleeves, and v waistline.

Bill Young
Bill Young

May 11, 2022

Most likely 1840’s, but I suspect that a lady who had invested in really good fabric would have worn the dress until it fell apart. Clothes of the time were made to measure and done mostly by hand with careful attention to detail. They wouldn’t have been cast aside like so many of today’s clothes.

Katharina
Katharina

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Pat
Pat

May 11, 2022

1840s

Betty
Betty

May 11, 2022

I think 1840’s

Sally
Sally

May 11, 2022

1840’s. Always wanted that waist!

Erica
Erica

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Sue D
Sue D

May 11, 2022

Looks like it is from 1840s.

BrendaK
BrendaK

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Heather
Heather

May 11, 2022

1840’s

JUDY
JUDY

May 11, 2022

I think it is from the 1850’s

Elaine M. Hoffman
Elaine M. Hoffman

May 11, 2022

The answer to this dress style is B. 1840’s.

Mary
Mary

May 11, 2022

Looks like 1840’s

Pegg
Pegg

May 11, 2022

I’d guess 1840s

Sylvia A Burton
Sylvia A Burton

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Sharon H
Sharon H

May 11, 2022

This dress is from the 1980’. I think this decade, or later ones, would look best on my doll. She’s not so much in showing off her decollete, since she’s too young to have one. :)

Greta
Greta

May 11, 2022

I have to say 1840"s because of the raised neckline and the sleeves.

Randy G Keller
Randy G Keller

May 11, 2022

B. 1840’s

Kim
Kim

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Kimberly C
Kimberly C

May 11, 2022

1840s

brenda
brenda

May 11, 2022

1840

Ellen
Ellen

May 11, 2022

1840s

Linda Thompson
Linda Thompson

May 11, 2022

Did some research, looks like it is from the 1840’s

Amanda
Amanda

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Diane
Diane

May 11, 2022

This dress is from 1840.

Anna McMahon
Anna McMahon

May 11, 2022

1840s and it was a very interesting article. Thank you for sharing.

Sharon Thomas
Sharon Thomas

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Maureen
Maureen

May 11, 2022

I also agree with the 1840’s!

Susan G
Susan G

May 11, 2022

B. 1840s

Sue Thomas
Sue Thomas

May 11, 2022

Lovely fashions! Based on the armscye, I guess 1840s.

Heidi Brown
Heidi Brown

May 11, 2022

1840s

Jacqueline C
Jacqueline C

May 11, 2022

I believe it is from the 1840’s.

Mary Ann
Mary Ann

May 11, 2022

My guess is the 1840’s

Nikola
Nikola

May 11, 2022

1840s

Marietta Brown
Marietta Brown

May 11, 2022

I’d have to say"B" the early 1840s.

Monique Venne
Monique Venne

May 11, 2022

This dress is from the 1840’s. Thanks for the contest!

louann
louann

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Susan
Susan

May 11, 2022

1840

Connie
Connie

May 11, 2022

I would guess the 1840s. Thank you for the information.

Elsa Tolman
Elsa Tolman

May 11, 2022

1840’s

MARSHA
MARSHA

May 11, 2022

1840

Nan G
Nan G

May 11, 2022

1840s

kathy
kathy

May 11, 2022

1840

Mary
Mary

May 11, 2022

Fun article. My best guess is the 1840s.

Ruth Ann
Ruth Ann

May 11, 2022

1840s

Amy T.
Amy T.

May 11, 2022

This style looks like it’s from the 1840s. 🙂

Jennifer
Jennifer

May 11, 2022

1840s of course.
But I kinda like the 30s better, maybe because it’s closer to the Regency era I love.

Doris
Doris

May 11, 2022

1840s

Catherine
Catherine

May 11, 2022

1840s

CdnCrafter
CdnCrafter

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Rebecca
Rebecca

May 11, 2022

I say 184o’s.

Ginger Dykes
Ginger Dykes

May 11, 2022

I would guess this dress is from the 1840’s. Thanks.

Dianne
Dianne

May 11, 2022

This dress is from the 1840’s.

Patricia Lenhart
Patricia Lenhart

May 11, 2022

THis dress was from the 1840’s

Mary Boehmke
Mary Boehmke

May 11, 2022

1840’s

This article was very interesting, especially about the mourning clothes. So different from today. Thanks for sharing!

Melissa
Melissa

May 11, 2022

1840s

Barbara Vinton
Barbara Vinton

May 11, 2022

It appears this dress is from the 1840’s.

Susan
Susan

May 11, 2022

Probably from the 1840’s.

Lois
Lois

May 11, 2022

My answer is B. 1840’s

Really enjoyed reading the fact on mourning clothes during the Civil War and how long you were to wear what colors. My sister and I have been reading about various aspects of the Civil War – so quite timely!! :)

Gloria
Gloria

May 11, 2022

1840’s. I love the dresses from the 1800’s. They were gorgeous, but I’m sure glad they aren’t in style now. So hot and heavy.

Carol
Carol

May 11, 2022

NY guess is1880

Bobbie
Bobbie

May 11, 2022

Thanks for the interesting post about early Victorian fashion. I think the dress is from the 1840s.

Lucy Burger
Lucy Burger

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Marcy Mahle
Marcy Mahle

May 11, 2022

I would say the 1840s but of course there is always a transition time when going from one decade to the next. Items or added and some are discarded especially because of the change in underwear.

Susan Hirsch
Susan Hirsch

May 11, 2022

I agree…1840’s!

Angela
Angela

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Lee
Lee

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Gladys
Gladys

May 11, 2022

I would say 1840

Marie
Marie

May 11, 2022

Ooops!! I put down the wrong year I meant to say 1840 but I am always hitting the wrong button bec I can’t see them well. Te light up keyboard helps but not enough. Good luck everyone!!

Gladys
Gladys

May 11, 2022

love Pixie Faire patterns I am acquiring a few

Ann
Ann

May 11, 2022

B. 1840’s

Sandra
Sandra

May 11, 2022

I believe it is the 1840’s style dress. I sure wouldnt have wanted to wear all those clothes during that time frame. yikes

Cheri
Cheri

May 11, 2022

My guess is the 1840s

Bella
Bella

May 11, 2022

It fits in the 1840.s era. I loved this tutorial. I found it very usefull.

Donna Landreth
Donna Landreth

May 11, 2022

I love the style of the 1840’s. I going with B the 1840’s. Thank You for the awesome giveaways.😘💋❤️

Maurine
Maurine

May 11, 2022

I believe it is from the 1840’s

Emily
Emily

May 11, 2022

1840’s, definitely.

florence davis
florence davis

May 11, 2022

the dress has features typical of the 1840s. Fashion is a such a wonderful teaching tool.

Pat
Pat

May 11, 2022

1840’s

Dorisanne
Dorisanne

May 11, 2022

This dress is from the 1840s because of the lowered armscye and pointed waist.

Katherine
Katherine

May 11, 2022

Looking close at the style, I believe its from 1840s.

Kate
Kate

May 11, 2022

My guess would be from the 1840s. I loved the style guide! I am currently working on several mid 1860s dresses for a granddaughter’s doll, so the timing on this is perfect!

Jeri
Jeri

May 11, 2022

I think it’s the 1840’s. This was a lot of great information.

Cristy Estep
Cristy Estep

May 11, 2022

I’ll give it a wild guess and say 1830’s?

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