Late Victorian Era Fashions - A Pixie Faire Style Guide

VICTORIAN ERA FASHION PART TWO (1870s-1890s)

We’ve put together another ultimate guide to help you make a historically accurate late Victorian period look for your dolls!  Let’s continue our journey through this historical period.  To recap, the Victorian era lasted from the 1830s until 1901 (when the Edwardian era began).  This article will cover from the 1870s through the 1890s as styles stayed somewhat similar during this time to see part one 1830-1860s Victorian fashion, click here. 

The Victorian era was named after the British Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901.  The later Victorian period diverges from the early Victorian period through the disappearance of full skirt and full sleeves.  Queen Victoria popularized the new thinner style after the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, in the 1860s.  Victoria’s influence on fashion not only stretched across the Commonwealth but over to the eastern coast of the United States as well.

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1870s

The 1870s took a sharp turn from the 1860s and previous decades when it comes to fashion.  Everything began to lose its copiousness and volume.  This is in part due to Queen Victoria’s becoming a widow just a few years prior to this period.  In fact, dress skirts narrowed down so much that by 1870 the range of foot movement within these skirts could be as little as six inches!  However, just because the volume was gone from womenswear that did not mean that there was no decadence about it.  Victorian bustles, which first became on-trend in 1870, were made by using special crinoline-like undergarments under a woman’s dress near her bum.  Fabric from the skirt was then draped over and pinned onto the undergarment to give it a full-bustled look.  The bustle at the back would almost always evolve into a long, dramatic train behind the dress.  This was another feature that was newly on trend.  Along with the bustles, dresses in the 1870s began to sport cuirass bodices, which were long bodices that were fitted close to the body and extended down past the hipline.  Cuirass bodices were stiffly boned to promote pristine posture.  They were also inspired by a piece of defensive armor that was worn close-fitted over the torso.  This further differentiated the 1870s dress from the fit and flare at the waist that was popular for decades before.  Sometimes cuirass bodices would feature sleeves that were different colors or prints than the rest of the dress for decoration.

 

1880s

Bustles in the 1880s flattened a bit and introduced a new type of crinoline-type garment that was made of metal framework, to ensure a very ridged bustle.  Even though bustles became flatter, this did not mean that they became any less dramatic.  More attention was brought to them through a new trend of adding excess draping around the hips and waistlines which culminated in the back.  This culmination was then gathered and draped after being pinned in place, resulting in a “waterfall”-style draped bustle.  Hems on dresses were also brought up, and, therefore, eliminated the trend of dramatic trains as well.  Cuirass bodices were still the most popular choice for a bodice of a dress at this time.

 

1890s

In the 1890s, the focus of the dress shifted from the skirt to the bodice.  Bodices were no longer stiff and ultra-fitted to the body but were lighter and more voluminous.  In the early 1890s, Sleeves started to have the most poufiness in the shoulder area since the end of the 1860s.  By the end of the 1890s, sleeves had swelled to a massive puffs which remained popular throughout the turn of the century.  Waistlines were brought up slightly and were often decorated with lace, sashes, or other embellishments.  The addition of yokes onto front bodices for decoration also became in vogue.  These often brought the neckline up high with frills extending even above the long neckline.  Bolero jackets or bolero-like bodices became popular for dresses.  This was a similar trend to the 1850s when jackets became a popular choice for womenswear.  Skirts at the beginning of the decade lost their bustles and became more fitted to the waist.  This changed very quickly, however.  By the end of the decade (and the century), hems dropped to the ground once again and long dramatic trains were back in style.

 

COLORS AND PRINTS

Popular colors during this period were deep colors like shades of blue, brown, chartreuse, olive, and wine.  Other, brighter colors were also popular for certain societal classes and types of clothing.  Jewel tones were the most prominent of the bright colors.  Yellows and purples were especially popular during the 1890s.  The fabrics that were used were made of natural fibers like cotton, wool, or silk.  This period also, however, favored some more luxurious types of fabric like velvet and satin for the wealthy.  Like the earlier part of the Victorian era, small florals and large plaids were still popular choices in prints.  Other prints like polka dots and stripes also grew in popularity during this era.  You can take a look below for some of our suggested fabric choices:

Royal Purple Stretch Satin from Mood Fabrics 

Garnet Solid Velvet from Mood Fabrics

Matte Satin from Joann Fabrics

Houndstooth Wool Coating from Mood Fabrics

Leaf Icon Crinkle Rayon from Joann Fabrics   

 

Pixie Faire offers a wide variety of late Victorian period-inspired patterns, view them all in the Late Victorian 1870s-1890s Fashions collection.

 

We’d love to hear from you!  Please leave a comment and tell us what you like most about late Victorian era fashion! Perhaps the bustles, the ruffles, or the beautiful details...

We'd love to see your creations too, so if you make one, please tag us on Instagram @PixieFaire

You can also share pictures in the Pixie Faire Inspritation Gallery right here on the website, either use the #pixiefaire when posting on IG, or just click the little + box to upload your picture right here on the website!

Thanks everyone!

For Pixie Faire, Katie

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We’d love to hear from you!  Please leave a comment and tell us what you like most about late Victorian era fashion! Perhaps the bustles, the ruffles, or the beautiful details...


100 Comments

Jennifer
Jennifer

May 18, 2022

I love the graceful silhouette of the Victorian dresses.

Michelle
Michelle

May 18, 2022

I really like the jackets. But I LOVE the history you have been providing! Not only on the late-Victorian era but also the early and the Regency too!

Kate piotrzkowski
Kate piotrzkowski

May 18, 2022

I am actually making one of these dresses at this time. I love the dresses from this period. I always include a bloomers and underskirt with them. My sisters make a lot of doll clothes to give away at Christmas for toys for tots. We buy 18 and 14 inch dolls and include 4-5 outfits with the dolls. Going on our third year. Love your patterns

MARIA LUISA
MARIA LUISA

May 18, 2022

Love all those details and the elegance of the dresses

Gayle Wallace
Gayle Wallace

May 18, 2022

I made the Susan B Anthony outfit and it turned out so cute. I also put the correct period undergarments under the dress. Can be a challenge. Love historical clothing.

Lisa
Lisa

May 18, 2022

I love that these dresses have trains, it’s not something we see anymore unless it’s a wedding dress.

Thresea
Thresea

May 18, 2022

I love that we don’t wear these styles today. I do like the train. My wedding dress had a twenty foot train. My mom made it. She served tiny pearls on four inch wide lace that went all around the train; approximately 41 yards!

Regan
Regan

May 18, 2022

Al the beautiful details! Victorian Era clothes and houses are my top pick!

Encarna A. L.
Encarna A. L.

May 18, 2022

Me encanta esta época, me hubiera encantado vivirla, los vestidos son espectaculares, los polisones, los volantes, las enaguas, la cantidad de adornos, encajes, plumas… Un sin fin de abalorios que hacen que los vestidos sean preciosos

Kate
Kate

May 18, 2022

I love the jewel tone colors and all the natural fabrics. I also appreciate all the attention given to detailing. So lovely to look at—not so sure I’d want to wear it on a daily basis.

Lori G.
Lori G.

May 18, 2022

I love the overall look of this era of clothing. I especially like the ruffles and tiny buttons. Incredible clothing!!!

Jacquie Corrigan
Jacquie Corrigan

May 18, 2022

I love the puffed sleeves and the beautiful fabrics!

Joanne
Joanne

May 18, 2022

Ruffles. I’ve always liked ruffles!

Hélène Dahl
Hélène Dahl

May 18, 2022

I much prefer the style at the end of the period. However, the bustle style is very interesting for their use of lace, fringes, tassels etc.

Susan Glen
Susan Glen

May 18, 2022

I love the long fitted bodices and the bustle and train in the back. They look elegant but I’m certainly glad we don’t have to wear garments like this now. Great look for dolls who don’t work in the garden. wink

Christine Brennan
Christine Brennan

May 18, 2022

It’s got to be the bustle for me. There is just something about it that makes the whole outfit look so sophisticated.

Sophie T
Sophie T

May 18, 2022

I love the look of the cuirasse bodice (though I wouldn’t like to wear one!) and the bustle. I love the attention to the pleating and ruffles and hats. Very elegant!

Lynn Kuitems
Lynn Kuitems

May 18, 2022

I love the variety and fun the Victorian Era brought. Lots of lace, trims and tucks became normal. I find these items feminine and lovely! Thanks for this special focus on Victorian Clothing.

shaun smith
shaun smith

May 18, 2022

I am not a fan of ruffles and lace but can picture a lot of the details in these outfits made into more modern shirts, jackets and skirts. Love the side buttoned bodice and some of the other fabric manipulations.

Pat
Pat

May 18, 2022

The train! I detest the silly bustle (how did women ever sit) but love the train! It gives such an elegant look!

Mary Ann
Mary Ann

May 18, 2022

I love the Victorian Era dresses with all the ruffles, layers and details in the bodices. I just can’t imagine sewing and constructing these dresses in that time period, the hours & hours it must have taken.

Heather
Heather

May 18, 2022

I like the beautifully fitted bodices and the puffed sleeves. I also love the types of fabrics used.

Karen Carroll
Karen Carroll

May 18, 2022

Though impractical, I love the dramatic trains!

Melanie
Melanie

May 18, 2022

This era was so beautiful and ladylike. The use of all that fabric to create the full ruffled look was stunning. These dresses were gorgeous. I bought a few of the patterns and can’t wait to see what I can make from them. Thank you.

Cora
Cora

May 18, 2022

I love the Victorian fashions, especially the ruffles and bows.

Juanita
Juanita

May 18, 2022

I love all the details in the Victorian Era dresses. The pleats, ruffles, trims. Very pretty.

susan
susan

May 18, 2022

Thank you Pixie Faire for providing such a comprehensive collection of historical patterns and these 2 excellent articles detailing the history of Victorian fashions. Don’t you just love all the intricate details that make up a period garment, to be able to display all these niceties on an 18 inch garment is a challenge that I truly enjoy!

Wanda
Wanda

May 18, 2022

I love the ruffles and the bustle!

Gail Beam
Gail Beam

May 18, 2022

I love everything about the Victorian Styles, From the fabric to the elaborate trim, this era had elegance.

Diane
Diane

May 18, 2022

I like the bustles and the detailed bodices of the late Victorian era.

Mae Lynn Beck
Mae Lynn Beck

May 18, 2022

I love the use of fabric – in ruffles, bustles, draping. The y took advantage of every bit of it!

Connie
Connie

May 18, 2022

I love all of the trims and the details to Victorian fashion.

Jeri
Jeri

May 18, 2022

I like the ruffles and the beautiful colors and fabrics. What did the poorer people wear?

Janet
Janet

May 18, 2022

I love the elegance and sophistication of the era and how the clothes reflected it

Nancy
Nancy

May 18, 2022

Love the fashion articles!

CdnCrafter
CdnCrafter

May 18, 2022

I like the beautiful detail.

SUZANNE
SUZANNE

May 18, 2022

As beautiful long trains were, they sure were not practical to move around or go up and downstairs (not to mention go to the W.C.), and they must have mopped the ground everywhere they went. This said, the V-shaped bodices and elongated jackets as well as higher waistlines must have advantaged many. Practicality aside, all of this glamour will always make us dream of the beautiful interiors and the elegant decors of the times when ballroom dancing was a thing of splendour.

Katy
Katy

May 18, 2022

Love Love Love ruffles! the more the better :-)

Barb
Barb

May 18, 2022

The details on the skirts are so beautiful! All the layers of fabrics. I have no idea how the seamstresses were able to accomplish this. And think of how expensive it must have been.

Barb
Barb

May 18, 2022

I am fascinated by the concept of bustles and crinolines. The dresses are so elegant and feminine. I wonder what the commoners wore as I can’t imagine they could afford the multiple yards required for such a voluminous gown. Also, while I think the dresses of this era are beautiful, the dresses do not seem to be comfortable nor practical. They had to be outrageously hot and cumbersome at the least! I have not tried making one of these dresses and look forward to the challenge.

Barb
Barb

May 18, 2022

I am fascinated by the concept of bustles and crinolines. The dresses are so elegant and feminine. I wonder what the commoners wore as I can’t imagine they could afford the multiple yards required for such a voluminous gown. Also, while I think the dresses of this era are beautiful, the dresses do not seem to be comfortable nor practical. They had to be outrageously hot and cumbersome at the least! I have not tried making one of these dresses and look forward to the challenge.

Wendy Farkas
Wendy Farkas

May 18, 2022

I love the evening dresses – the décolletage, the bare backs, the beautiful fabrics.

Andrea
Andrea

May 18, 2022

I love all the variety that Victorian styles offer for doll clothing — especially all the ways one can trim the clothing and all the various types of headwear.

Louise
Louise

May 18, 2022

The sometimes drastic change of shape of skirts and sleeves always amuses me. Victorian fashion uses optical illusion to make waists look smaller, I love the lines that they create and all the wonderful designs on fabrics and richness of colour.

Jan
Jan

May 17, 2022

I love the bustles,ruffles & the ability to change the look of the dresses by your fabric choice.

Janice
Janice

May 17, 2022

I like the slimmer skirts of the 1880’s and 90’s. I enjoyed reading the information about the styles of this period.

Sue S
Sue S

May 17, 2022

I love the bustles and the look of the cuirass bodices but how uncomfortable they must have been. No wonder ladies had the vapors and fainting chairs were a necessity.

Ronelle
Ronelle

May 17, 2022

I love the 1890’s fashion. it’s so beautiful and romantic.

Lisa
Lisa

May 17, 2022

I love the ruffles and beautiful trims.

Lisa
Lisa

May 17, 2022

I love the ruffles and beautiful trims.

Kelly
Kelly

May 17, 2022

I love the fabrics used in the Victorian era.

Marjory
Marjory

May 17, 2022

I love all the trims that go along with fashions of this era.

SANDIE
SANDIE

May 17, 2022

I have always love the victorian era clothing, Looks fancy with the ruffles and bustles. Since I am going to be living close to my only granddaughter who last summer went and got her American girl doll from the factory, I look forward to getting patterns and teaching her how to sew.

Rita
Rita

May 17, 2022

Love the colors that were popular.

Marilyn
Marilyn

May 17, 2022

I love the extended bodice. But so much fabric in the skirt with the bustle!!!! It would break the bank for me to have a dress with that much fabric. Love the fashions.

CynthiaW
CynthiaW

May 17, 2022

I like the front draping which hides some of a woman’s figure ‘imperfections’

Carol
Carol

May 17, 2022

The intricacy of the dresses is fascinating to look at, but very time consuming to make. I think most of these styles were for very wealthy women, who spent their time in Society, not everyday weaer.. And as someone else mentioned, I’d love to see girls’ dresses as well.

Fran R.
Fran R.

May 17, 2022

I like the fabrics. The richness of the colors, the many yards of fabric and the mixing of prints. Though I can’t imagine the weight of the clothing; not only the outer layer but all the underclothing as well. I am wearing a full skirted gown to my son’s wedding next week and while sewing it I tried it on several times for fittings. At one point it was then necessary to add the crinoline slip under it for measuring the hem. I put on my new high heels (haven’t worn heels in 10 years with retirement) put the dress on over my head and then tried to step into the crinoline which was standing up by itself. Hubby had to be called to help me as I couldn’t see past all the skirt I had lifted up to get my foot into the elastic waist of the slip. He had to hold it flatter to the ground. I can see why they needed help to get dressed. Lol

terry kuntz
terry kuntz

May 17, 2022

Very inventive for a doll. Might just have to give one of these a whirl

Janet
Janet

May 17, 2022

I love the bustles, ruffles and fitted bodices.

Kristina
Kristina

May 17, 2022

I love everything about the styles, I’m just glad that I don’t have to wear them!

Kerry
Kerry

May 17, 2022

Victorian fashion is fascinating. The voluminous use of fabrics, notions and structures to accentuate the female form while at the same time barricading and hiding it is so interesting!
I’d have to say my favorite wearables from this era are the hats and bonnets. No outfit was complete without some sort of head covering, and the fanciful use of artificial fruits and flowers, stylish ribbons and laces— even taxidermized birds, truly captivates the imagination.

JoAnn Larsen
JoAnn Larsen

May 17, 2022

I really loved the photo of the black and white dress with the short puffed sleeve and train. I can do without the bustles (can you imagine trying to sit?), but love the trains.

Abby
Abby

May 17, 2022

I love the ruffles!

Dorothy
Dorothy

May 17, 2022

I love how they use to sew with so many details. Clothes use to have a shape to them, the waistline, the bust many details in a garment unlike some of the straight clothes they have now days.

Sandra Cox
Sandra Cox

May 17, 2022

I love the style, the ruffles and the laces of the Victorian age.

Derin
Derin

May 17, 2022

I like big bustles! I cannot lie. Every brother can’t deny that when a girl walks in with an itty bitty waist and a big bustle in your face…

Lizbet
Lizbet

May 17, 2022

I am just starting to enjoy making these era fashions! So interesting!!

Jocelyn
Jocelyn

May 17, 2022

I love all the intricate details, but how on earth did they manage to sit down?

Deborah Peake
Deborah Peake

May 17, 2022

I love the fabrics and the elaborate details of the garments.

Gracia Marks
Gracia Marks

May 17, 2022

Victorian fashions are so very elegant. As long as it is my dolls that wear them and not me.
Cheryl R.
Cheryl R.

May 17, 2022

I love all the tiny details in the era garments!

Margie Unger
Margie Unger

May 17, 2022

I love the attention to detail in these dresses. I can’t imagine how much time went into each dress. I love sewing but I don’t think I’d have the patience to make one of those.

Faith L Follmer
Faith L Follmer

May 17, 2022

I love all the details and ruffles on the dresses. Just beautiful but I have to admit they don’t look to comfortable.

EV
EV

May 17, 2022

What I love most about the late Victorian era clothing is being able to play with a bit of steampunk fashion with it.

Ruth Ann
Ruth Ann

May 17, 2022

Love the ruffles and the trains, however hard to maneuver!

Ava
Ava

May 17, 2022

My favorite thing about late Victorian fashion is the intricate drapings and layers of ruffles on the skirts. It’s also fun to see the Rococo influence and inspiration in 1780s fashion in particular. It’s interesting to see how fashion cycles.

Dotti G
Dotti G

May 17, 2022

I find Victorian Fashions to be elegant! That is what I love about them.

sue
sue

May 17, 2022

I prefer the early Victorian era fashions for the most part, but I love the high waist. paired with the long train on the detailed black and white dress showing the 1890 fashions.

Lynne C
Lynne C

May 17, 2022

For me it’s all about the details. I love the challenge of finding small scale prints & trims that will stay true to the period. It’s so rewarding when everything comes together perfectly.

Janet
Janet

May 17, 2022

I love all the details in the designs.

Colette
Colette

May 17, 2022

I love the ruffles and layers of the Victorian era dresses.

Pam B
Pam B

May 17, 2022

I like the structured bodices paired with skirts gone wild in the bustle era.

Martha
Martha

May 17, 2022

I love everything about the Victorian era. The bustles are the best.

Joan Larson
Joan Larson

May 17, 2022

I love the unusual use of trims in Victorian fashions.

Sharon Thomas
Sharon Thomas

May 17, 2022

The detailing is stunning. Waiting to recover from Covid so I can stitch again.

MARIAN
MARIAN

May 17, 2022

I find the luxurious fabrics and trims to be especially appealing. The fuller sleeve caps balancing the fullness of the skirting softens the look.

Clarissa
Clarissa

May 17, 2022

My dolls really like the idea of velvets and satins in silk with lots of ruffles, trims and details.

Maurine
Maurine

May 17, 2022

I love the full flowing skirts and the attention to the details with the lace, bustles and ruffles.

Rose
Rose

May 17, 2022

I love the lace accents.
Fun article to read!

Constance
Constance

May 17, 2022

I like the details. The trimmings!! I also like the colors of the fabric.

Bridgette
Bridgette

May 17, 2022

I like the ruffles!

Amy
Amy

May 17, 2022

The outfit is cute

Doll Lover
Doll Lover

May 17, 2022

I love the puffed sleeves and long train features of the 1890s.

Kristie Laroche
Kristie Laroche

May 17, 2022

I love the ruffes and lace.

Melissa
Melissa

May 17, 2022

Love all the historical fashions. Would like to see more patterns that represent what girls wore instead of woman’s fashions since the dolls represent 9 or 10 year old girls.

Heidi Brown
Heidi Brown

May 17, 2022

I love the bustles!

Lynn M
Lynn M

May 17, 2022

Details!

Betty Scott
Betty Scott

May 17, 2022

I love your patterns and clothes for the 18" dolls. My great-granddaughter has two dolls who I have sewn for. Ruffles are so cool.

Lorraine  M
Lorraine M

May 17, 2022

Ruffles are my favorite.

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