Sewing Spring Outerwear Part 2

Continuing with the Spring Outerwear themed topic, In Part Two Shari jumps in to show us a lovely little embellishment called rouleaux trim and how she's using it on the Keepers Dolly Duds 1910s Winter Holiday Coat. Although this coat pattern is titled with a winter theme, made up in a soft pink or sunshine yellow it would be perfect for spring as well!Rouleaux trim is quite simply a narrow tube made from bias cut fabric. I've used these fabric tubes for some time to make decorative bows and button loops, but have never tried using them as a surface embellishment. I've seen this type of trim used in much more elegant ways on historical garments, but it isn't something we see too much of now days because it isn't something that can be done by machine. It may be a little fussy to apply, but it is actually a simple process the yields amazing results and well worth the effort involved it you want to create something truly special. Rouleaux trim became popular in the 18th and 19th centuries because it was an elegant option to expensive store bought trims that could easily be made from leftover pieces of fabric.Before you can begin embellishing fabric with Rouleaux trim, you need to know how to make the trim itself. I have several patterns where I have used shorter pieces of this type trim, which I referred to as cording because I used it to make bows and button loops.Whether using it for cording or as Rouleaux trim, it is made the same way if you use sturdy lighter weight fabrics Fabrics that are no no heavier than a quilting cotton or lightweight twill like the one I used in my tutorial. If you want to use a heavier or more delicate fabric for your trim, I will show you and alternate method further along in this post. Start by cutting a narrow strip of fabric on the bias. The bias is important because it gives the trim the flexibility it needs to turn neatly along curves in a design. I like to cut my strips in 3/4” widths to make a 1/8” wide trim. Although I could technically cut these strips 1/2” wide, the wider strips are easier to manage on the sewing machine. When possible, try to make your strips in one piece. If you need to, however, you can splice strips together by pinning the ends of the strips right sides together at right angles. Stitch from corner to corner, trim the seam allowance and press the seam allowances open. Fold the strips in half down the length with the right sides together. To get a nice even tube, run the folded edge along your seam guide instead of the raw edge. Stitch, using a slightly more than 1/8” seam allowance. Anything narrower than 1/8” will be much more difficult to turn. Once you are finished sewing, trim off the extra seam allowance. You can use a straight scissors for this, but I recommend using a pinking shears if you have them as they reduce any potential fraying on the narrow seam allowances.To turn the cording right side out, snip the folded edge up to the seamline about 1/2” from the end. A bobby pin with a narrow open end works great for turning these tubes. Slip the bobby pin onto the snipped end of the tube. Slide the bobby pin into the tube through the slit, squeezing the ends of the bobby pin flat to help is fit inside the tube. Once it is in, the bobby pin will spring back open which will help widen the tube to make it easier to turn right side out. Push the bobby pin through the tube, working the gathered fabric off the back end of the bobby pin. Because the tube is sew narrow here, it is a bit tricky working the end through, but once it is drawn inside, the rest of the tube should slide through easily. Watch The Turning Narrow Tubes TutorialIf you are having difficulty following the written instructions here, watch Cinnamon's Video to see how she uses this method to turn a shoulder strap. For bulkier or more delicate fabric, cut a 1/2” strip of bias trim and fold the outer edges toward the center. Whipstitch the folded edges together. It helps to tape the end of the tube to a table top, or tie it to a table leg to anchor it. This allows you to hold the tube taught as you work, which makes it easier to stitch. Watch The Rouleaux Trim Application TutorialNow that you know how to make trim watch my tutorial to see how to apply it to the surface of fabric. I'm demonstrating this technique on the Keepers Dolly Duds 1910s Winter Holiday Coat pattern. I really like this trim method. It may be a bit fussier to work with than a flat braid that can be machine stitched in place, but the Rouleaux trim can give a garment a bespoke finish and can be made with the same fabric used on the garment so there is no issues trying to find a matching trim. I am curious to see how detailed a design I can create on a doll-size Regency Pelisse, so I am going to get to work on this new pattern so I can give it a try!

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