Sewing The Edwardian Bicycle jacket Part 2: The Sleeves and Collar

Welcome back! Let's Continue with Part 2 in our sew-along, Attaching the Sleeves and Collar...Before we continue sewing the Edwardian Bicycle Jacket, it’s helpful to take a quick look at what an active young woman would have worn under her outfit during the Edwardian era. Whether she was heading out for a bicycle ride, a brisk walk, or even a bit of horseback riding, her clothing had to balance modesty, support, and freedom of movement—something fashion was slowly beginning to embrace.Edwardian sporting undergarments shifted noticeably away from the heavy, restrictive layers of the Victorian period. Shorter corsets—sometimes even elasticized for comfort—and lightweight “combinations” (a chemise and drawers merged into one garment) became popular. These underpinnings reduced bulk at the waist and made it easier for women to move naturally.Foundational LayersFor a split bicycle skirt, a combination suit was the most practical first layer. This one-piece garment kept things smooth under the waistband and was usually made from fine white or pastel cottons, wools, or silks. The 1920s Girl’s Combination Underwear pattern fits perfectly here, especially Views A and B, which match styles worn from the late Victorian period into the early 1920s.Corsets for Active WearBy the Edwardian period, women were beginning to leave their long, hip-hugging fashion corsets for more formal occasions. These sleek corsets created the signature Edwardian silhouette but weren’t ideal for movement-heavy activities.For sports, riders, and hikers, shorter corsets—similar to the style in the Victorian Unmentionables pattern—were preferred. Lightweight sports corsets with elastic panels also came into use, offering greater flexibility and breathability.Petticoats were often omitted entirely when wearing a split skirt, minimizing layers and maximizing ease of movement.StockingsKnee-high stockings were the final layer. Fine-knit versions with elastic tops were common, helping prevent irritation under athletic boots. For doll-sized versions, the bonus stocking pattern from the Turnshoes pattern or the socks included in the Keepers Pilgrim Boy pattern both work well, and knitters can choose from Eezy Peezy Tube Socks, Cozy Feet, Sock It To Me, or the Doll Sock Trio.Back to the Edwardian Bicycle Jacket Sew-AlongWith the historical foundation in place, let’s jump back into our sewing project.This week, we’re focusing on attaching the sleeves and collar to the jacket and prepping the lining—three key steps that start to reveal the jacket’s tailored Edwardian shape.We’ve included a short video tutorial to walk you through:Setting in the sleevesAdding the collarPreparing and attaching the lining pieces Take your time with these steps, enjoy the process, and don’t hesitate to pause and rewatch sections of the video as needed. You’ll see the structure of the jacket come together quickly at this stage.Join us next week for Part 3 – Finishing Touches, where we’ll add the sleeve plackets, complete the lining, and bring every detail of your Edwardian Bicycle Jacket together for a polished final look.

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