The Sacque-Back Gown, as it was commonly known in England and the American Colonies, originated in France as the robe à la française, an undress fashion. Undress meant that they were informal articles of clothing that were presentable enough to wear inside one's home while entertaining, but not something one would wear in public. It's most notable feature was the box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the hem. At its most informal, this gown was unfitted in both the front and back and called a contouche, or robe battante. The style was not limited to gowns, but also carried over into shortened jacket forms that were called caracos or pet en l'air. The jackets were originally knee length, but shortened to just above the hips as the century progressed. Toward the middle of the 18th century, the Sacque-Back had emerged as one of the most fashionable gowns, and by the 1770s, it was second only to court dress in its formality. As these gowns gained popularity, the artist Antoine Watteau captured their elegance in many of his paintings which later led to them being referred to as Watteau Gowns.
The Sacque-Back Gown in this pattern features three sets of double stacked box pleats in the back giving it that flowing Watteau style. It can be made trained or untrained, or cut shorter in length to make a pet en l’ier jacket for less formal occasions. The ¾ length sleeves are lightly puffed and are edged with lace and feature and winged cuffs. The gown is cut in the open style, fastening in front with a stomacher that is held in place with six sets of snaps. Embellishing is optional. The pattern includes instructions for a plain petticoat or a ruffled petticoat.
This PDF sewing pattern by Thimbles and Acorns is designed to fit popular 18" dolls such as those shown in the photos.
Special Note: This pattern was formally titled 1770 Sacque Back Gown and Caraco Jacket. It is the same pattern.
Recommended Fabrics: Gown, Caraco, and Petticoat in lightweight woven fabric such as cotton, gingham, calico, lawn, silk, or linen. Not suitable for knits. Lining in lightweight woven fabric such as cotton muslin, calico, lawn, silk, or linen. Not suitable for knits.
Supplies Needed:
Fabric:
-Gown ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m).
-Caraco ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m).
-Petticoat ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m).
-Lining ~ 18 x 24-inch (46 x 70 cm) piece of fabric. Scraps or fat quarters work well.
Notions:
-Thread.
-Gown ~ 2-1/2 yards 1/2-inch wide flat lace or 1/2-inch wide strip of fabric, 1 yard 1-inch wide bias tape (trained gown only), two 1/4-inch decorative buttons, six small snaps, and one 12-inch square white handkerchief for fichu.
-Caraco Jacket ~ 18-inches 1/2-inch wide flat lace or 1/2-inch wide strip of fabric, six small snaps, and one 12-inch square white handkerchief for fichu.
-Petticoat ~ 1 yard 1-inch wide flat lace or 1-inch wide strip of fabric; 1 yard 1/8-inch wide cotton twill tape.
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 39 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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