The distinct style of ladies’ dress in the 18th century was achieved by a complex succession of layers that began with the underpinnings. Underpinnings were what we might refer to as underwear today, and they provided the basic structure and dimension that made 18th century fashion unique. The name is somewhat deceptive, however, as underpinnings weren't always out of sight - they were simply the first layers of a complete outfit. In fact, for a working class girl, the underpinnings may have been all that she wore from day to day.
This 28 page PDF pattern by Thimbles and Acorns is not too difficult, but some sewing experience is helpful. It includes instructions for a shift, stays, panniers, and petticoat.
This pattern is available in two sizes (18" dolls such as American Girl® and 16" A Girl For All Time)® that can be purchased individually for $8.99.
Recommended Fabrics: Shift and Stays Lining in lightweight cotton batiste or linen. Not suitable for knits. Stays, Panniers, and Petticoat in medium weight quilting cotton, silk, wool, or linen. Period prints, stripes, and solids work well for the panniers and petticoat. Stripes are not recommended for the Stays. Not suitable for knits.
-Shift ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m),
-Stays ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Stays Lining ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Panniers ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Petticoat ~ 1/3 yard (1/3 m).
Notions: Thread. Shift ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Stays with straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1/2 yard 1/4-inch (6mm) ribbon, 1 yard of 5/8-inch wide bias tape (trimmed down from 1-inch wide commercial bias tape or cut from fabric), fourteen 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Stays without straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, ten 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Panniers ~ 1 yard 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Petticoat ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) twill tape or ribbon.
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 28 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides digitally drawn step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
Download, Print, Sew!
*Creating a customer account will ensure that you have the ability to access your purchased (and free) files at any time.
Pixie Faire and the designers featured are not affiliated with American Girl®.
Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the 17th and 18th centuries to...
Super pattern; very well put together and easy to sew. Download includes a short history of this particular garment as well as tips and tricks for sewing. A very enjoyable project. Five Stars.
After making myself a costume corset, a pair of stays for a doll felt like a scary yet achievable project This pattern is full of insight into historical and modern techniques and offers a lot of opportunities to learn new techniques often not covered in doll sewing, such as boning and gussets My only recommendation is for the bones themselves, use zip/cable ties to cut costs and have extras to make more! They're far more forgiving to those who've never boned before
Came together well. Instructions were well written and illustrated. I will buy from designer again. Easy to download
Not only did this pattern work well, I also learned a lot about the function of the garments. I had no idea that panniers really did function as side baskets for ladies, with side slits allowed in all their skirts for access to them. This is not a pattern that makes shortcuts for doll scale; it’s as accurate to the period as can be made at this scale. For that reason, the pattern is a lot of work to sew. Other patterns on this site will make short cuts and look the same on the finished doll. But I love Thimbles and Acorns patterns for their detail and accuracy so I can learn more about historical costume. I’d love to have the same pattern scaled for Kidz n Cats dolls!
It turned out great, and all the pieces are very historically accurate in the way they are assembled. The boning was a little intimidating, but it turned out to be pretty easy in the end:)