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[Edited 1/6/26] Congratulations to Sharon H. She won the Pixie Faire gift card and has been notified by email!
Christmas is one of my favorite times of year â a season of creativity, generosity, and reflection. This year I wanted to continue to celebrate in a way thatâs meaningful, fun, and deeply connected to what we love most:Â design, sewing, and growing together as makers.

So today, Iâm excited to announce the 15th annual 12 Days of Christmas Celebration, inspired by the 15th anniversary of the Design Academy-12 Principles of Design.
For the next 12 days, weâll be sharing:
âď¸ One Design Academy Principle per day
đĄ A practical Design Tip you can use immediately
đŹ A daily blog comment prompt for you to earn entries in our giveaway
đ A $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card giveaway â announced on January 6th
Each day we'll jump back to this blog post to highlight one of the twelve design principles and invite you to join the conversation by leaving a comment. Every comment is an entry to win the $100 gift card. The more you participate, the more entries you earn!
And thereâs more....
These 12 principles are also the foundation of something very special coming in 2026âŚ

Twelve principles. Twelve months. One unforgettable year of growth.
In 2026, Cinnamon Miles is opening the vault and teaching the Design Academy like never beforeâfifteen years after she first published the landmark series that inspired thousands of sewists worldwide. This is a complete, modernized re-imagining, blending Liberty Janeâs iconic design principles with Sewing With Cinnamonâs techniques, challenges, and creative opportunities.
We're bringing the Design Academy into Sewing With Cinnamon in 2026 using the core principles to guide our 2026 topics and this year, thereâs even more:
Historical fashion deep dives with guest instructor Shari Fuller. Designer spotlight showcases. Sew Powerful Purse crossover projects. And a brand-new challenge every month.
If you loved the original Design Academy, you havenât seen anything yet!
Read all the detail of the 2026 overview HERE. Existing SWC members are already in! If you're not a member yet, we invite you to join us, it all starts on January 6, 2026.
The 12 Days of Christmas is your preview of whatâs coming â and a great way to jump back into thinking like a designer and getting the most out of your Pixie Faire pattern collection.
Letâs celebrate creativity, learning, and sewing together this Christmas season.
Merry Christmas,
Cinnamon & Team Pixie Faire
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đ Winner announced 1/6/26!
Today (12/25) we kick things off with Principle #1: Proportion, and your first entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Proportion: Scale is invisible when it's right and noticeable when it's wrong!
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt:
Whatâs your best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll you're sewing for?
Today (12/26) we kick things off with Principle #2: Focal Point, and your second entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Focal Point: Choose ONE star of the show. Whether itâs a bold fabric, a special embellishment, a unique neckline, or a pop of contrast â one clear focal point will always outperform several competing ones.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: Whatâs your favorite way to create a focal point â color, embellishment, trim, or fabric choice?
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Today (12/27) we kick things off with Principle #3: Rhythm & Repetition, and your third entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âWhat do you enjoy repeating most in your sewing â shapes, colors, stitching, or patterns?â
Today (12/28) we kick things off with Principle #4: Harmony & Unity, and your fourth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Choose one unifying idea and let it guide every decision.
That unifying idea might be:
If every choice supports the same idea, harmony follows naturally.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âWhen you start a project, what helps you keep everything feeling cohesive?â (color, mood, fabric types, themes, etc)
Today (12/29) we kick things off with Principle #5: Color, and your fifth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Successful Color Blocking:Â Highlight the pattern design lines with fabric by color blocking! Keep in mind the design principles mentioned earlier - rule of thirds, repetition, and harmony - Let one color dominate about 70%, repeat colors with added elements like buttons and trims, and pick a color palette that pleases the eye!
Bonus BOGO Promotion happening today too! https://www.pixiefaire.com/collections/trend-watch-color-block
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âWhat color combination do you find yourself reaching for again and againâand why?"
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Today (12/30) we kick things off with Principle #6: Fabric Matters, and your sixth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Fabric Choice: Match the fabric personality to the design's intent. Choosing the right fabric often matters more than choosing the perfect color or embellishment. Maybe it's time to venture out of your comfort zone and try out a new type of fabric?
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âWhatâs one fabric you love sewing withâand one you tend to avoid?â
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Today (12/31) we kick things off with Principle #7: Fabric Matters, and your seventh entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Surprise is what turns a nice design into a memorable one. Itâs the small, unexpected detail that makes someone stop and look twice. Add one unexpected detail that only appears once. It could be: A contrasting lining, A hidden pocket, An unexpected trim or button, A pop of color on the inside rather than the outside. One surprise is charming. Too many dilute the effect.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: â Whatâs the most fun or surprising detail youâve ever added to a sewing project?â
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Today (1/01) we kick things off with Principle #8: Waistlines, and your eighth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Where the waistline sits can completely change a silhouette. A small shift up or down can make a design feel youthful, classic, elegant, or modern.
The higher (Empire) waistline was prominent in the early 1800s Regency era, the natural waistline popular in the 1930s-1950s, and the lower dropped waistline emerged in the 1920s and reappeared in the 1960s/70s.
Waistlines arenât just structuralâtheyâre visual cues.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: â Do you tend to prefer high, natural, or dropped waistlines in your designs?â
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Today (1/02) we kick things off with Principle #9: Homage, and your eighth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Homage is about honoring inspiration without copying it. Great designers study what they love, identify why it works, and then reinterpret it in their own voice.
Homage connects design to history, culture, and personal storyâand itâs one of the most meaningful ways to create!
Isolate one defining element of your inspiration and build from there.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âIs there a designer, era, or style that inspires your sewing the most?â
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Today (1/03) we kick things off with Principle #10: Minimalism, and your tenth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Minimalism isnât about making designs boringâitâs about making intentional choices.
When fewer elements compete for attention, the most important ones shine.
Minimalist designs often look confident, modern, and timeless.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âDo you lean more toward simple designs or detailed onesâand why?â
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Today (1/04) we kick things off with Principle #11: Distressing & Embellishment, and your eleventh entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Todayâs design principle is all about adding depth, texture, and personality. Distressing and embellishment bring a design to lifeâbut only when theyâre intentional.
The goal isnât to add more, but to add meaning.
Well-placed texture can elevate even the simplest design.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: âDo you enjoy embellishing your projects with fabric manipulation or added details like buttons, beads, or trims?â
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Today (1/05) we kick things off with Principle #12: Sewing Technique, and your final entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip:Â
Most projects look âhandmadeâ not because of design choices, but because of rushed finishing. Taking extra time on the last 10% of a project makes the biggest visual difference.
Focus on:
Accurate seam allowances
Pressing after every seam
Clean edges and consistent topstitching
Secure closures and neatly finished hems
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt:
âWhat sewing technique do you most want to improve or master in the coming yearâand why?â
Thank you for being part of this community and for sharing your creativity with me.
Warmly,
Cinnamon
P.S. Donât forget â today is the final day to comment for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card drawing!
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I just look for tiny scale fabrics that look small enough for the doll.
I was interested to read the comment where the writer dabbles in polymer clay and makes some of her own small-scale buttons in the colors and sizes needed. I also enjoyed the comment that mentioned how sometimes a print that might seem like it would be too big actually ends up working.
I look for smaller designs. When I am out I try to use my little finger for a flower. If it covers it perfect. For stripes I think of the dolls finger.
Usually comparing it to their hand is a good place to start as many have said. After youâve been sewing for dolls for a while you generally get a pretty good feel for what will work.
I love fabric with stripes that are no wider than the dolls finger.
I agree with draping the fabric on the doll and stepping back to see if it feels right..
Love the suggestion for cutting a pattern piece of clear plastic to check scale when Iâm out thrifting. Might use copier paper with the pattern piece cut outâŚgood view finder. Thanks for the tip.
Iâm working now with a floral chiffon fabric with 1 1/8" burgundy flowers in the designâŚ.a bit large. But they sit in a scattering of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" flowers. The larger motif blends in with the randomness of the design. The white center of the 1 1/8" flower pops out like a small flower. The fabricâs dark background absorbs and diminishes the size of the burgundy flower. It works.
The smaller the doll, the smaller the print. Larger prints just donât look right on small clothes.
I like small prints, solids or small stripes. I hold it up to the doll to determine if the print is right. I measure the doll to determine length and only use small lace and Rick rack
I like to look in catalogs at girlsâ clothing for ages 9-11. So I like to see if a check pattern is used in a dress picture, I try to estimate what the size is for the check pattern. Once I have that approximate size, I turn it into the 1:3 scale. So if the plaid is a 1-inch square, I would then look for a plaid for the dolls with the square being 1/3 of an inch. This would then give it a very appropriate size for the doll dress. Or if it something more complex, like a floral motif, again I would measure it and divide it by 1/3. And Iâm not against using a calculator either!!!! ggg Hope this helps someone else.
I usually look at the print next to doll from a distance, that helps with proportion. Another idea is if the print is too big, like a large plaid, turn the fabric on the bias. That way, it can be less about the print and more about the color or texture of the fabric.
For dolls I like at most 1 small print with solids. Trims need to be smallâI like baby rickrack.
I hold the fabric up against the doll, to see if the pattern scale is right.
Iâm new at this. I like the answers of using the dollâs hand to help with scale.
I wrap fabric around my hand to determine appropriate scale of prints to doll size. Iâm rarely disappointed.
Proportion is everything. It can make or break an outfit small or big. I like to look at things in 3 ways. 1 close up, 2 from a distance, and 3 take a picture to look at. Each one has itâs own benefits. I like to look back at a photo of the outfit. It is amazing what your eye picks out of the phot good or bad.
When making historical doll clothes for 18" dolls, I try to find prints with a 33% scale. If they also need to be era-appropriate, you can understand why I often use solids!
Others have mentioned it already, but I find that using the size of the doll hand works well in determining the size of a print. You donât need to take the doll with you, just cut a piece card stock the size of the hand to hold up to the fabric. Then think about how that would look if it were your hand.
Also, I think that over time we develop an âeyeâ for proportion â whether it is the print on fabric, buttons, snaps, or trim.
I use small to medium print cotton or woolens. I usually use 1/2 to 1 inch trims. Buttons -3/8ths to 1/2 inch. I have won many ribbons on my 18 inch dolls. This past year, I started sewing for 14 inch dolls-as a smaller sister or brother for the 18 inch. I use smaller prints and smaller trims, and buttons for this size doll.
Scale that is too large for the doll always bothers me. I compare the print to the dollâs hand and try to imagine how that would compare to something I would wear.
The smaller the better. Sometimes it depends on what I want to make for the doll.
Scale of thickness is as important as the size of the fabric pattern and trims. A fake fur, polar fleece, or thick corduroy can be a disaster on small doll clothes.
I try to use very small prints, dots, and stripes. But if I find a fabric with a larger print that I like, I simply hold the fabric up to the doll. If I like it, I use it.
My best tip for determining proportion is to imagine the trim, button, print on myself and see if that would work. For example, if a flower on the fabric extends from the dollâs shoulder to her waist, what would that look like if I wore a print that large for me?
If a print is bigger than the dollâs hand it is too big, in my opinion.
I think different techniques are useful depending on what youâre checking. Checking the scale of a pattern, for instance, is different than checking the scale of the print on the fabric. Iâve seen lots of good ideas in the comments. I love learning new techniques.
Hi,
Iâm super excited for all the advice! I am brand new to sewing doll clothes. Iâve literally only made one so far :)
I like the small prints because it looks more realistic on the doll.
If Iâm not sure about the size of the print, I will actually lay a doll on top of it, walk away and look at it from a distance first. If the fabric design jumps out at me first, itâs too large for the doll. I do try to stick with smaller prints and âblendersâ since I sew for a charity . I usually make doll clothes in groups of 6 or more at a time, unless I only have enough fabric for one or two.
I like to break the rules and let the design emerge on its own. Sometimes something that seems too large actually works.
I generally get fabric from one of my patients at work. I donât think she always picks the correct design size for the dolls. Here locally we donât have a real good selection on fabrics any more. Hobby Lobby has a few cotton,but nothing with print in knits. Michaels donât carry much, then we have Walmart. I really like the smaller prints for doll clothes but sometimes I get lucky
Not only does the fabric design have to be a good scale, but it must be close enough together that it looks like a print on a shirt and not a spot! Many great scale prints are just spaced wrong! I also judge by eye as I have been doing it a long time and can see when things are âjust not quite right.â
I agree on the small print rule, but sometimes just a little larger print can be a nice surprise. It just depends on the doll size and the look I am trying to create.
I like using all kinds of fabrics, faux fur and suiting. I look for what catches by eye in color than look for a small print.
I look for tiny prints, trying to stay around the 1/4 inch scale prints or less. Sometimes the 1/2 prints are ok, depending on what you are making.
I think that if a print is bigger than my thumb, it is too big for the doll.
I like Leslie Joâs suggestion about not using a print with a repeat larger than a dollâs hand.
Iâm always looking for smaller size prints for making doll clothes. Sometimes I find some small prints on childrenâs ready to wear. I can deconstruct these and resew doll clothes from the fabric.
Nothing bigger than my thumbnail in a floral print for 18 inch dolls is my usual rule of thumb (literally in this case).
I look for small prints and small scale notions. I also dabble in polymer clay which allows me to more closely match button colors and scales. I look to see what size buttons would be used in human clothing and scale them back. I DO make slightly larger and slightly smaller verisions to see what looks best even if the scale is slightly offf.
If I canât actually bring my doll with me, Iâve learned that my forearm is roughly the same length as my doll⌠so any fabric or patterning I drape along and if it looks too big for this length, I try to find something smaller.
I select fabrics for dolls using my fingers. If my pinkie finger can cover a design element in a print, itâs good for 12â dolls. My pointer finger works for 15-16â dolls and my thumb works for SD sized BJDs. For lace, Iâm always keeping my eyes open for small scale.
Hope everyone had a great holiday
I hold the fabric up to a doll to check the proportion.
I try to stay away from large plaids for projects with small pleats or ruffles. The smaller the area the smaller the print
I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,
I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,
Jâaime coudre. Jâutilise de beaux tissus afin de mettre en valeur montravail.
Thank you for the many free give aways and for providing us with top notch doll patterns over the years. I have loved knitting, crocheting and sewing many of the patterns and love how the fit comes out and the details are phenomenal!! Thank you so much
When working with 18â dolls, scale is very important period doll clothes, less so for childrenâs doll clothes for play. When vetting an accessory, trim, button or fabric print I visualize it 3X as big (a ½â wide lace would be 1 ½â in reality, a 5mm button would be 15mm, a fabric with a 1â stripe would be 3â, and so on.) Take into consideration era and style. A ½â button (which multiplies out to being 1 ½â) might be perfectly right for a 60âs mod, float dress accent but totally too big for most other eras. A ½â Kam snap is probably fine for childrenâs play clothes, but oversized for historical closures and should be replaced with regular snaps, hooks or velcro. (For 14â dolls I visualize the item in question 4x larger.)
P.S. Donât forget to take into consideration the thickness of your fabric, as well. ;-)
I donât have any method for determining the appropriate scale. I generally just try to buy fabric with a small scale. For trims, itâs been trial and error and Iâve found what I think works best.
I enjoy quilting as well as making doll clothing so I am naturally drawn to small prints. I especially like the 1930s and 1940s reproduction fabrics.
If Iâm sewing for an American Girl doll, I remember that she is a 1/3 scale doll. Itâs easy to do the math and consider that a 1-inch flower on her dress would be equal to a 3-inch flower on a human dress. Notions, such as buttons, that are too large can instantly look out of place on a small doll. Itâs hard to find really small buttons and other decorative items, but itâs essential!
i love sewing and these patterns
I am naturally drawn to very small prints for 18" dolls. A dash of a solid can soften a slightly larger print.
I donât take this topic as seriously as I might if I were sewing to sell. Iâm naturally drawn to small prints, but itâs my hobby interest, and Iâm only sewing to please myself. My dolls graciously accept whatever I make.
Small prints or solids are a necessary part of making doll clothes look realistic. Appropriate sized trims are important too. Itâs become a bit difficult to find smaller trims in various colors since COVID but I have found two solutions: 1 shop at thrift/antique shops for small trims or 2 find an appropriate white cotton trim and die to the needed color.
The real large prints are obviously out unless they are like a watercolor print and then I usually put that with a plain bodice. I can reverse that idea also by putting the darker color at the bottom.
I look for small prints, and fabric weight for drape. I have read many god ideas in the previous comments. Thank you, everyone
I do the math. American Girls are about one third the size of a child, so Iâll imagine the scale three times bigger and decide if it makes sense.
My best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll Iâm sewing for ⌠will be to make sure that the pattern and the fabric (print) are the appropriate size for the doll.
Iâve learned over the years that sometimes just because I like a certain fabric pattern, that doesnât mean the proportion makes it a good one for doll fashion. I agree with the wrapping the fabric around the dolls to get a feel for how it would look. I mean, the same is true for human fashion. Different sizes can sometimes prefer larger or smaller patterns on the fabric. Also it seems sometimes the larger patterns can be balanced with fabric using smaller patterns throughout. I look forward to discussing this more!
If the finished garment allows your eyes to flow smoothly from top to bottom, the garment is proportional to the size of the doll. Measuring is key! My mother had us creating and sewing for our dolls before we sewed for ourselves!
It really depends on which doll Iâm sewing for⌠lately Iâve been sewing a lot for mini mias which are 9â tall but have shorter bodies and bigger heads. I know that the bodice is going to be about 2 1/2â across but only about 1 3/4â long so I think about how much of the fabric will show in that measurement. If a particular pattern gets cut off in that small size, I wonât use it ( like a 3â long cat thatâs 2â high). The kids that I sew for like novelty fabrics best so I do pick out fabrics with those cute items on them, I just try to make sure theyâre going to fit in the design. I fussy cut the bodices so they work out. If I sew for a doll like Ruby Red, I do take proportions into account though because I usually am sewing for adults and adults want clothes that look appropriate. I do love sewing both kinds of outfits because I get to try all kinds of different ideas and make them work. Itâs a challenge for someone like me who gets bored easily! Iâm learning a lot and I enjoy trying out new ideas.
You really canât go too small. Many of my own clothes have very tiny prints. If Iâm unsure about a print being too big, I just drape it on the doll and decide if it looks good that way.
I drape a corner of the fabric across/around the doll to see if I like the size of a print with the doll and the planned pattern. Some eras need smaller prints, some, like the 70s, can shine with bolder proportions.
I agree with earlier posts. To-scale buttons, ribbons, lace and trims are critical to an outfit looking correct. I think they are particularly important with period clothing.
I like to use plain fabrics and contrast them to avoid having to look for really small print. Or if Iâm sewing for the little kids (like my 4yo) she is happy to have the same fabric for a dress for herself and dolly â even if it looks really wrong.
I prefer fabrics that are without print and small buttons. If I knit l prefer thin yarn and thinner needles so that the stitches are smaller.
Sometimes those licensed prints that the kids identify with are too large for an entire outfit. But they can be cut out and appliqued to a bodice, a pants leg, or a bag.
I go by eye if it doesnât look right, or feel right, I have to change it.
When making doll clothes , I look for smaller print fabrics or if it is a larger print Iâll imagine what it would look on a doll to determine if it will work or not.
Looking forward to learning
I sew mainly for 18â dolls so I just keep the largest item in the print under 1/2â
I think keeping the lace and buttons and all of that to scale is very important.
I think proportions on doll clothes are extremely important! I sew for 18â, 11 1/2â fashions dolls and also right down to tiny Barbie babies. If a waistline is a little short it looks more like an empire waist, if it is too long it looks like a dropped waist. I learned a bit about proportions by sketching out the 9 head Croquis using Zoe Hongâs You tube video. It helps one understand proportions of the body.
I feel like it just takes a good eye and a little editing to get the right scale and proportion.
l look for very small prints, ribbon, lace etc. that are in proportion to the size of the doll. I often end up using 30âs reproduction prints for the smaller dolls..
For some two-piece dresses, such as a dress with a pinafore, I often use a small print for the dress and a larger print with the same colors for the pinafore.
Small scale print â always keep an eye out when at fabric shops and even thrift stores. Seems like they are harder to find â but for doll clothes so essential!
Proportion is very important to me so, even though I sew doll clothes for charity, I am very aware of the size doll I am giving away with the clothes and compare the fabric, lace and all items to match the proportion of the doll as though she was a child.
Definitely consider the size of buttons, zippers, trim and even hem width in proportion to the doll.
I start with 1/3 2/3 vertical scale. . Then I go with how it looks. Scale can be top to bottom, side to side (is collar too big), size of print on fabric, and how pleasing it looks overall. Observe scale in childrenâs clothing (in real life or pictures). Before choosing final choice of fabric I even âshowcaseâ my choices on a flat surface. It is surprising what combinations are pleasing.
Iâm always on the lookout for tiny patterns either at fabric shops or thrift stores. One of my favorite thrifted finds was an XL sleeveless blouse that had tiny light blue stripes and tiny red lobsters. I was able to make four of the Mulberry Street Summer Romper pattern. Then I found a lobster print at Hobby Lobby that was a little bigger scale, but worked perfectly for making sun hats. I love it when things work out like that!
I usually use my âown handâ and the dolls hand to âcompareâ items to determine if itâs âtoo bigâ for the doll or not. I often work in threads (crocheter)⌠so I compare what a âyarnâ looks like on my hand to what it looks like on the dolls handâŚwhich often ends up being a âsewing threadâ size on smaller dolls â yes â I crochet with sewing threadsâŚ. heavier threads just donât âlook rightâ and thereâs SO many colors available with sewing thread it makes it âfunâ! :-) (that and a great lamp and magnifying glasses! LOL!!)
My friends give me their fabric scraps. If the prints are too big or not suitable to use for doll clothes, I use the fabric to make a quilt backing, a sleeping bag, or a tote bag for the little girl.
I try to look at a 5âłĂ5âł section of the fabric. If the print show up well on that small patch, then Iâm good.
Lots of great comments! I have resorted to taking a pattern piece or tracing to the fabric store to check for design size. On the size dolls I sew the most for, cutting the piece out of clear plastic like a clear page sleeve for a 3-ring binder works great and can be reused many times.
Love all the comments! Trying to find small scale fabrics for 18 inch dolls helps the outfits look more proportional.
Pay attention to the size of the EYES. Also, to a lesser extent the size of the hands and mouth. A doll like Blythe can look great with bigger prints than say, Barbie, even though the height is in the same range.
I donât think I can add to any of the already good comments and suggestions. Thanks Ladies!
I like to shop for childrenâs clothes in 2nd hand stores. They usually have smaller designs. When I can find baby whale corduroy, I grab that, too. I deconstruct the clothes for my âgirls.â
I donât really have a design tip to determine proportion, I just image it on the doll. If it overtakes the doll, itâs to big.
In historical garments, I like to study the silhouette for each era as closely as possible, so I can get the bodice and skirt lengths, sleeves and trim widths to fit like the original garments, with a balance of shapes that were appropriate for the time.
Would I wear a print, buttons or trim the size I am considering for the doll if I was the size of the doll.
Size of print is so critical, and sometimes easier to use multiple solids to create colorful outfits without worrying about prints.
When trying to design for my American Girl doll, I get thrown by the imbalance of her head and body. Her head is huge for her body. I have to reduce the scale of the hats and emphasize the outfit details so it looks balanced. If I scale the hat to her head size, she will look like sheâs about to topple over!
Is there a formula to use for the 18" dolls?
I look for small prints and lighter weight fabrics for my 14 inch and 18 inch doll clothes projects. I sometimes hold the print fabrics next to the doll, but mostly I just eyeball it. I will use larger prints for something casual like, pajama or lounge pants. Boxers for boy dolls look good with a biggger print.
I use small prints like a lot of post civil war fabrics have small print and works fine for doll clothes.
The buttons or snaps are a giveaway â if they are too big the outfit just doesnât look right.
Bring a doll with you, hold the fabric up to the doll- use you eyes for confirmation. Also place the dolls hand over part of the fabric, like a flower. If it doesnât cover the entire flower it probably is to big.
Kristin
December 25, 2025
As for overall scale, I donât put a great deal of thought into scale when selecting fabrics. I suppose I do, but not consciously. I tend to select fabrics that âspeak to meâ for the dolls. The sad part is that it is getting harder to see fabric in person to really be able to gauge the actual scale. When you can only select from a small online swatch, you have to hope they at least put a tape measure in the photo.