The 2026 12 Days Of Christmas Start Now!

🎄 The 15th annual 12 Days of Christmas at Pixie Faire!

 

[Edited 1/6/26] Congratulations to Sharon H. She won the Pixie Faire gift card and has been notified by email!

Christmas is one of my favorite times of year — a season of creativity, generosity, and reflection. This year I wanted to continue to celebrate in a way that’s meaningful, fun, and deeply connected to what we love most: design, sewing, and growing together as makers.

So today, I’m excited to announce the 15th annual 12 Days of Christmas Celebration, inspired by the 15th anniversary of the Design Academy-12 Principles of Design.

Here’s how it works:

For the next 12 days, we’ll be sharing:

  • ✂️ One Design Academy Principle per day

  • 💡 A practical Design Tip you can use immediately

  • 💬 A daily blog comment prompt for you to earn entries in our giveaway

  • 🎁 A $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card giveaway — announced on January 6th

Each day we'll jump back to this blog post to highlight one of the twelve design principles and invite you to join the conversation by leaving a comment. Every comment is an entry to win the $100 gift card. The more you participate, the more entries you earn!

And there’s more....

These 12 principles are also the foundation of something very special coming in 2026…

✨ Sewing With Cinnamon & Friends 2026 Theme

Design Academy Reimagined: A Year-Long Sewing Masterclass

Twelve principles. Twelve months. One unforgettable year of growth.

In 2026, Cinnamon Miles is opening the vault and teaching the Design Academy like never before—fifteen years after she first published the landmark series that inspired thousands of sewists worldwide. This is a complete, modernized re-imagining, blending Liberty Jane’s iconic design principles with Sewing With Cinnamon’s techniques, challenges, and creative opportunities.

We're bringing the Design Academy into Sewing With Cinnamon in 2026 using the core principles to guide our 2026 topics and this year, there’s even more:
Historical fashion deep dives with guest instructor Shari Fuller. Designer spotlight showcases. Sew Powerful Purse crossover projects. And a brand-new challenge every month.

If you loved the original Design Academy, you haven’t seen anything yet!

Read all the detail of the 2026 overview HERE. Existing SWC members are already in! If you're not a member yet, we invite you to join us, it all starts on January 6, 2026.

The 12 Days of Christmas is your preview of what’s coming — and a great way to jump back into thinking like a designer and getting the most out of your Pixie Faire pattern collection.

Let’s celebrate creativity, learning, and sewing together this Christmas season.

Merry Christmas,
Cinnamon & Team Pixie Faire

 

🎁 12 Day's of Christmas Giveaway 

👉 Winner announced 1/6/26!


🎁 Day 1

Today (12/25) we kick things off with Principle #1: Proportion, and your first entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip - Proportion: Scale is invisible when it's right and noticeable when it's wrong!

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt:
What’s your best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll you're sewing for?

🎁 Day 2

Today (12/26) we kick things off with Principle #2: Focal Point, and your second entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip - Focal Point: Choose ONE star of the show. Whether it’s a bold fabric, a special embellishment, a unique neckline, or a pop of contrast — one clear focal point will always outperform several competing ones.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: What’s your favorite way to create a focal point — color, embellishment, trim, or fabric choice?

 

🎁 Day 3

Today (12/27) we kick things off with Principle #3: Rhythm & Repetition, and your third entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

  • 💡Design Tip - Rhythm & Repetition: Repeat a shape or color at least three times.
    Two feels accidental. Three feels deliberate. Four or more creates strong visual rhythm.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: “What do you enjoy repeating most in your sewing — shapes, colors, stitching, or patterns?”


🎁 Day 4

Today (12/28) we kick things off with Principle #4: Harmony & Unity, and your fourth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Choose one unifying idea and let it guide every decision.
That unifying idea might be:

  • A color story
  • A mood (playful, classic, modern)
  • A fabric type
  • Or a design theme

If every choice supports the same idea, harmony follows naturally.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: “When you start a project, what helps you keep everything feeling cohesive?” (color, mood, fabric types, themes, etc)


🎁 Day 5

Today (12/29) we kick things off with Principle #5: Color, and your fifth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Successful Color Blocking: Highlight the pattern design lines with fabric by color blocking! Keep in mind the design principles mentioned earlier - rule of thirds, repetition, and harmony - Let one color dominate about 70%, repeat colors with added elements like buttons and trims, and pick a color palette that pleases the eye!

Bonus BOGO Promotion happening today too! https://www.pixiefaire.com/collections/trend-watch-color-block

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “What color combination do you find yourself reaching for again and again—and why?"

 

 

🎁 Day 6

Today (12/30) we kick things off with Principle #6: Fabric Matters, and your sixth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Fabric Choice: Match the fabric personality to the design's intent. Choosing the right fabric often matters more than choosing the perfect color or embellishment. Maybe it's time to venture out of your comfort zone and try out a new type of fabric?

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “What’s one fabric you love sewing with—and one you tend to avoid?”

 

🎁 Day 7

Today (12/31) we kick things off with Principle #7: Fabric Matters, and your seventh entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Surprise is what turns a nice design into a memorable one. It’s the small, unexpected detail that makes someone stop and look twice. Add one unexpected detail that only appears once. It could be: A contrasting lining, A hidden pocket, An unexpected trim or button, A pop of color on the inside rather than the outside. One surprise is charming. Too many dilute the effect.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “ What’s the most fun or surprising detail you’ve ever added to a sewing project?”

 


🎁 Day 8

Today (1/01) we kick things off with Principle #8: Waistlines, and your eighth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Where the waistline sits can completely change a silhouette. A small shift up or down can make a design feel youthful, classic, elegant, or modern.

The higher (Empire) waistline was prominent in the early 1800s Regency era, the natural waistline popular in the 1930s-1950s, and the lower dropped waistline emerged in the 1920s and reappeared in the 1960s/70s.

Waistlines aren’t just structural—they’re visual cues.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “ Do you tend to prefer high, natural, or dropped waistlines in your designs?”

 

🎁 Day 9

Today (1/02) we kick things off with Principle #9: Homage, and your eighth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Homage is about honoring inspiration without copying it. Great designers study what they love, identify why it works, and then reinterpret it in their own voice.

Homage connects design to history, culture, and personal story—and it’s one of the most meaningful ways to create!

Isolate one defining element of your inspiration and build from there.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “Is there a designer, era, or style that inspires your sewing the most?”

 


🎁 Day 10

Today (1/03) we kick things off with Principle #10: Minimalism, and your tenth entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Minimalism isn’t about making designs boring—it’s about making intentional choices.
When fewer elements compete for attention, the most important ones shine.

Minimalist designs often look confident, modern, and timeless.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “Do you lean more toward simple designs or detailed ones—and why?”

 

 

🎁 Day 11

Today (1/04) we kick things off with Principle #11: Distressing & Embellishment, and your eleventh entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Today’s design principle is all about adding depth, texture, and personality. Distressing and embellishment bring a design to life—but only when they’re intentional.
The goal isn’t to add more, but to add meaning.

Well-placed texture can elevate even the simplest design.

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt: “Do you enjoy embellishing your projects with fabric manipulation or added details like buttons, beads, or trims?”

 

🎁 Day 12

Today (1/05) we kick things off with Principle #12: Sewing Technique, and your final entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.

💡Design Tip: 

Most projects look “handmade” not because of design choices, but because of rushed finishing. Taking extra time on the last 10% of a project makes the biggest visual difference.

Focus on:

  • Accurate seam allowances

  • Pressing after every seam

  • Clean edges and consistent topstitching

  • Secure closures and neatly finished hems

👉 To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post.  Comment Prompt:

“What sewing technique do you most want to improve or master in the coming year—and why?”

Thank you for being part of this community and for sharing your creativity with me.

Warmly,
Cinnamon

P.S. Don’t forget — today is the final day to comment for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card drawing!

 


100 Comments

Kristin
Kristin

December 25, 2025

As for overall scale, I don’t put a great deal of thought into scale when selecting fabrics. I suppose I do, but not consciously. I tend to select fabrics that “speak to me” for the dolls. The sad part is that it is getting harder to see fabric in person to really be able to gauge the actual scale. When you can only select from a small online swatch, you have to hope they at least put a tape measure in the photo.

Beth P
Beth P

December 25, 2025

I just look for tiny scale fabrics that look small enough for the doll.

Kristin
Kristin

December 25, 2025

I was interested to read the comment where the writer dabbles in polymer clay and makes some of her own small-scale buttons in the colors and sizes needed. I also enjoyed the comment that mentioned how sometimes a print that might seem like it would be too big actually ends up working.

Paula
Paula

December 25, 2025

I look for smaller designs. When I am out I try to use my little finger for a flower. If it covers it perfect. For stripes I think of the dolls finger.

Sherry
Sherry

December 25, 2025

Usually comparing it to their hand is a good place to start as many have said. After you’ve been sewing for dolls for a while you generally get a pretty good feel for what will work.

Sue N
Sue N

December 25, 2025

I love fabric with stripes that are no wider than the dolls finger.

I agree with draping the fabric on the doll and stepping back to see if it feels right..

Love the suggestion for cutting a pattern piece of clear plastic to check scale when I’m out thrifting. Might use copier paper with the pattern piece cut out…good view finder. Thanks for the tip.

I’m working now with a floral chiffon fabric with 1 1/8" burgundy flowers in the design….a bit large. But they sit in a scattering of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" flowers. The larger motif blends in with the randomness of the design. The white center of the 1 1/8" flower pops out like a small flower. The fabric’s dark background absorbs and diminishes the size of the burgundy flower. It works.

CdnCrafter
CdnCrafter

December 25, 2025

The smaller the doll, the smaller the print. Larger prints just don’t look right on small clothes.

Sharon
Sharon

December 25, 2025

I like small prints, solids or small stripes. I hold it up to the doll to determine if the print is right. I measure the doll to determine length and only use small lace and Rick rack

Melinda Cieslinski
Melinda Cieslinski

December 25, 2025

I like to look in catalogs at girls’ clothing for ages 9-11. So I like to see if a check pattern is used in a dress picture, I try to estimate what the size is for the check pattern. Once I have that approximate size, I turn it into the 1:3 scale. So if the plaid is a 1-inch square, I would then look for a plaid for the dolls with the square being 1/3 of an inch. This would then give it a very appropriate size for the doll dress. Or if it something more complex, like a floral motif, again I would measure it and divide it by 1/3. And I’m not against using a calculator either!!!! ggg Hope this helps someone else.

Kathy
Kathy

December 25, 2025

I usually look at the print next to doll from a distance, that helps with proportion. Another idea is if the print is too big, like a large plaid, turn the fabric on the bias. That way, it can be less about the print and more about the color or texture of the fabric.

Susan
Susan

December 25, 2025

For dolls I like at most 1 small print with solids. Trims need to be small—I like baby rickrack.

Anna
Anna

December 25, 2025

I hold the fabric up against the doll, to see if the pattern scale is right.

Donna M
Donna M

December 25, 2025

I’m new at this. I like the answers of using the doll’s hand to help with scale.

Debra Miller
Debra Miller

December 25, 2025

I wrap fabric around my hand to determine appropriate scale of prints to doll size. I’m rarely disappointed.

Rosemarie
Rosemarie

December 25, 2025

Proportion is everything. It can make or break an outfit small or big. I like to look at things in 3 ways. 1 close up, 2 from a distance, and 3 take a picture to look at. Each one has it’s own benefits. I like to look back at a photo of the outfit. It is amazing what your eye picks out of the phot good or bad.

Lynn Gallager-Vallejo
Lynn Gallager-Vallejo

December 25, 2025

When making historical doll clothes for 18" dolls, I try to find prints with a 33% scale. If they also need to be era-appropriate, you can understand why I often use solids!

Dotti G.
Dotti G.

December 25, 2025

Others have mentioned it already, but I find that using the size of the doll hand works well in determining the size of a print. You don’t need to take the doll with you, just cut a piece card stock the size of the hand to hold up to the fabric. Then think about how that would look if it were your hand.
Also, I think that over time we develop an ‘eye’ for proportion – whether it is the print on fabric, buttons, snaps, or trim.

Cora
Cora

December 25, 2025

I use small to medium print cotton or woolens. I usually use 1/2 to 1 inch trims. Buttons -3/8ths to 1/2 inch. I have won many ribbons on my 18 inch dolls. This past year, I started sewing for 14 inch dolls-as a smaller sister or brother for the 18 inch. I use smaller prints and smaller trims, and buttons for this size doll.

Vicki Avery
Vicki Avery

December 25, 2025

Scale that is too large for the doll always bothers me. I compare the print to the doll’s hand and try to imagine how that would compare to something I would wear.

LAURIE
LAURIE

December 25, 2025

The smaller the better. Sometimes it depends on what I want to make for the doll.

Tish Evans
Tish Evans

December 25, 2025

Scale of thickness is as important as the size of the fabric pattern and trims. A fake fur, polar fleece, or thick corduroy can be a disaster on small doll clothes.

Cheryl
Cheryl

December 25, 2025

I try to use very small prints, dots, and stripes. But if I find a fabric with a larger print that I like, I simply hold the fabric up to the doll. If I like it, I use it.

Beth S.
Beth S.

December 25, 2025

My best tip for determining proportion is to imagine the trim, button, print on myself and see if that would work. For example, if a flower on the fabric extends from the doll’s shoulder to her waist, what would that look like if I wore a print that large for me?

Janice
Janice

December 25, 2025

If a print is bigger than the doll’s hand it is too big, in my opinion.

Charlotte
Charlotte

December 25, 2025

I think different techniques are useful depending on what you’re checking. Checking the scale of a pattern, for instance, is different than checking the scale of the print on the fabric. I’ve seen lots of good ideas in the comments. I love learning new techniques.

Melinda
Melinda

December 25, 2025

Hi,
I’m super excited for all the advice! I am brand new to sewing doll clothes. I’ve literally only made one so far :)

Dorothy
Dorothy

December 25, 2025

I like the small prints because it looks more realistic on the doll.

Nadine
Nadine

December 25, 2025

If I’m not sure about the size of the print, I will actually lay a doll on top of it, walk away and look at it from a distance first. If the fabric design jumps out at me first, it’s too large for the doll. I do try to stick with smaller prints and “blenders” since I sew for a charity . I usually make doll clothes in groups of 6 or more at a time, unless I only have enough fabric for one or two.

Carolyn Berger
Carolyn Berger

December 25, 2025

I like to break the rules and let the design emerge on its own. Sometimes something that seems too large actually works.

Marcia G
Marcia G

December 25, 2025

I generally get fabric from one of my patients at work. I don’t think she always picks the correct design size for the dolls. Here locally we don’t have a real good selection on fabrics any more. Hobby Lobby has a few cotton,but nothing with print in knits. Michaels don’t carry much, then we have Walmart. I really like the smaller prints for doll clothes but sometimes I get lucky

Marti
Marti

December 25, 2025

Not only does the fabric design have to be a good scale, but it must be close enough together that it looks like a print on a shirt and not a spot! Many great scale prints are just spaced wrong! I also judge by eye as I have been doing it a long time and can see when things are “just not quite right.”

cheryl
cheryl

December 25, 2025

I agree on the small print rule, but sometimes just a little larger print can be a nice surprise. It just depends on the doll size and the look I am trying to create.

Susan B
Susan B

December 25, 2025

I like using all kinds of fabrics, faux fur and suiting. I look for what catches by eye in color than look for a small print.

Sandra Cox
Sandra Cox

December 25, 2025

I look for tiny prints, trying to stay around the 1/4 inch scale prints or less. Sometimes the 1/2 prints are ok, depending on what you are making.

Jessica
Jessica

December 25, 2025

I think that if a print is bigger than my thumb, it is too big for the doll.

Mary
Mary

December 25, 2025

I like Leslie Jo’s suggestion about not using a print with a repeat larger than a doll’s hand.

Julie C
Julie C

December 25, 2025

I’m always looking for smaller size prints for making doll clothes. Sometimes I find some small prints on children’s ready to wear. I can deconstruct these and resew doll clothes from the fabric.

Angela
Angela

December 25, 2025

Nothing bigger than my thumbnail in a floral print for 18 inch dolls is my usual rule of thumb (literally in this case).

Susan Smart
Susan Smart

December 25, 2025

I look for small prints and small scale notions. I also dabble in polymer clay which allows me to more closely match button colors and scales. I look to see what size buttons would be used in human clothing and scale them back. I DO make slightly larger and slightly smaller verisions to see what looks best even if the scale is slightly offf.

Krynne
Krynne

December 25, 2025

If I can’t actually bring my doll with me, I’ve learned that my forearm is roughly the same length as my doll… so any fabric or patterning I drape along and if it looks too big for this length, I try to find something smaller.

Mary-Sarah
Mary-Sarah

December 25, 2025

I select fabrics for dolls using my fingers. If my pinkie finger can cover a design element in a print, it’s good for 12” dolls. My pointer finger works for 15-16” dolls and my thumb works for SD sized BJDs. For lace, I’m always keeping my eyes open for small scale.

Michelle
Michelle

December 25, 2025

Hope everyone had a great holiday

Jeanne
Jeanne

December 25, 2025

I hold the fabric up to a doll to check the proportion.

Melis
Melis

December 25, 2025

I try to stay away from large plaids for projects with small pleats or ruffles. The smaller the area the smaller the print

Ruth
Ruth

December 25, 2025

I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,

Ruth
Ruth

December 25, 2025

I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,

Monique
Monique

December 25, 2025

J’aime coudre. J’utilise de beaux tissus afin de mettre en valeur montravail.

Darlene
Darlene

December 25, 2025

Thank you for the many free give aways and for providing us with top notch doll patterns over the years. I have loved knitting, crocheting and sewing many of the patterns and love how the fit comes out and the details are phenomenal!! Thank you so much

Agnes P
Agnes P

December 25, 2025

When working with 18” dolls, scale is very important period doll clothes, less so for children’s doll clothes for play. When vetting an accessory, trim, button or fabric print I visualize it 3X as big (a ½” wide lace would be 1 ½” in reality, a 5mm button would be 15mm, a fabric with a 1” stripe would be 3”, and so on.) Take into consideration era and style. A ½” button (which multiplies out to being 1 ½”) might be perfectly right for a 60’s mod, float dress accent but totally too big for most other eras. A ½” Kam snap is probably fine for children’s play clothes, but oversized for historical closures and should be replaced with regular snaps, hooks or velcro. (For 14” dolls I visualize the item in question 4x larger.)
P.S. Don’t forget to take into consideration the thickness of your fabric, as well. ;-)

Pam
Pam

December 25, 2025

I don’t have any method for determining the appropriate scale. I generally just try to buy fabric with a small scale. For trims, it’s been trial and error and I’ve found what I think works best.

Vicky stine
Vicky stine

December 25, 2025

I enjoy quilting as well as making doll clothing so I am naturally drawn to small prints. I especially like the 1930s and 1940s reproduction fabrics.

Mandona Wilson
Mandona Wilson

December 25, 2025

If I’m sewing for an American Girl doll, I remember that she is a 1/3 scale doll. It’s easy to do the math and consider that a 1-inch flower on her dress would be equal to a 3-inch flower on a human dress. Notions, such as buttons, that are too large can instantly look out of place on a small doll. It’s hard to find really small buttons and other decorative items, but it’s essential!

candy
candy

December 25, 2025

i love sewing and these patterns

Connie
Connie

December 25, 2025

I am naturally drawn to very small prints for 18" dolls. A dash of a solid can soften a slightly larger print.

Kathy W.
Kathy W.

December 25, 2025

I don’t take this topic as seriously as I might if I were sewing to sell. I’m naturally drawn to small prints, but it’s my hobby interest, and I’m only sewing to please myself. My dolls graciously accept whatever I make.

Dawn
Dawn

December 25, 2025

Small prints or solids are a necessary part of making doll clothes look realistic. Appropriate sized trims are important too. It’s become a bit difficult to find smaller trims in various colors since COVID but I have found two solutions: 1 shop at thrift/antique shops for small trims or 2 find an appropriate white cotton trim and die to the needed color.

Barb E
Barb E

December 25, 2025

The real large prints are obviously out unless they are like a watercolor print and then I usually put that with a plain bodice. I can reverse that idea also by putting the darker color at the bottom.

CAROL
CAROL

December 25, 2025

I look for small prints, and fabric weight for drape. I have read many god ideas in the previous comments. Thank you, everyone

Tamara
Tamara

December 25, 2025

I do the math. American Girls are about one third the size of a child, so I’ll imagine the scale three times bigger and decide if it makes sense.

Deb
Deb

December 25, 2025

My best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll I’m sewing for … will be to make sure that the pattern and the fabric (print) are the appropriate size for the doll.

Kimberly Chidsey
Kimberly Chidsey

December 25, 2025

I’ve learned over the years that sometimes just because I like a certain fabric pattern, that doesn’t mean the proportion makes it a good one for doll fashion. I agree with the wrapping the fabric around the dolls to get a feel for how it would look. I mean, the same is true for human fashion. Different sizes can sometimes prefer larger or smaller patterns on the fabric. Also it seems sometimes the larger patterns can be balanced with fabric using smaller patterns throughout. I look forward to discussing this more!

Ann
Ann

December 25, 2025

If the finished garment allows your eyes to flow smoothly from top to bottom, the garment is proportional to the size of the doll. Measuring is key! My mother had us creating and sewing for our dolls before we sewed for ourselves!

Mary Hope
Mary Hope

December 25, 2025

It really depends on which doll I’m sewing for… lately I’ve been sewing a lot for mini mias which are 9” tall but have shorter bodies and bigger heads. I know that the bodice is going to be about 2 1/2” across but only about 1 3/4” long so I think about how much of the fabric will show in that measurement. If a particular pattern gets cut off in that small size, I won’t use it ( like a 3” long cat that’s 2” high). The kids that I sew for like novelty fabrics best so I do pick out fabrics with those cute items on them, I just try to make sure they’re going to fit in the design. I fussy cut the bodices so they work out. If I sew for a doll like Ruby Red, I do take proportions into account though because I usually am sewing for adults and adults want clothes that look appropriate. I do love sewing both kinds of outfits because I get to try all kinds of different ideas and make them work. It’s a challenge for someone like me who gets bored easily! I’m learning a lot and I enjoy trying out new ideas.

Janet
Janet

December 25, 2025

You really can’t go too small. Many of my own clothes have very tiny prints. If I’m unsure about a print being too big, I just drape it on the doll and decide if it looks good that way.

Diane G
Diane G

December 25, 2025

I drape a corner of the fabric across/around the doll to see if I like the size of a print with the doll and the planned pattern. Some eras need smaller prints, some, like the 70s, can shine with bolder proportions.

Karen
Karen

December 25, 2025

I agree with earlier posts. To-scale buttons, ribbons, lace and trims are critical to an outfit looking correct. I think they are particularly important with period clothing.

Anna
Anna

December 25, 2025

I like to use plain fabrics and contrast them to avoid having to look for really small print. Or if I’m sewing for the little kids (like my 4yo) she is happy to have the same fabric for a dress for herself and dolly – even if it looks really wrong.

BĂŠatrice
BĂŠatrice

December 25, 2025

I prefer fabrics that are without print and small buttons. If I knit l prefer thin yarn and thinner needles so that the stitches are smaller.

Sewbig
Sewbig

December 25, 2025

Sometimes those licensed prints that the kids identify with are too large for an entire outfit. But they can be cut out and appliqued to a bodice, a pants leg, or a bag.

Kathleen A
Kathleen A

December 25, 2025

I go by eye if it doesn’t look right, or feel right, I have to change it.

Kelly
Kelly

December 25, 2025

When making doll clothes , I look for smaller print fabrics or if it is a larger print I’ll imagine what it would look on a doll to determine if it will work or not.

Susan Contreras
Susan Contreras

December 25, 2025

Looking forward to learning

Linda D
Linda D

December 25, 2025

I sew mainly for 18” dolls so I just keep the largest item in the print under 1/2”

Martha
Martha

December 25, 2025

I think keeping the lace and buttons and all of that to scale is very important.

Jan
Jan

December 25, 2025

I think proportions on doll clothes are extremely important! I sew for 18”, 11 1/2” fashions dolls and also right down to tiny Barbie babies. If a waistline is a little short it looks more like an empire waist, if it is too long it looks like a dropped waist. I learned a bit about proportions by sketching out the 9 head Croquis using Zoe Hong’s You tube video. It helps one understand proportions of the body.

Deb Helfrich
Deb Helfrich

December 25, 2025

I feel like it just takes a good eye and a little editing to get the right scale and proportion.

Susan
Susan

December 25, 2025

l look for very small prints, ribbon, lace etc. that are in proportion to the size of the doll. I often end up using 30’s reproduction prints for the smaller dolls..

Heidi
Heidi

December 25, 2025

For some two-piece dresses, such as a dress with a pinafore, I often use a small print for the dress and a larger print with the same colors for the pinafore.

:Lois
:Lois

December 25, 2025

Small scale print – always keep an eye out when at fabric shops and even thrift stores. Seems like they are harder to find – but for doll clothes so essential!

Karin
Karin

December 25, 2025

Proportion is very important to me so, even though I sew doll clothes for charity, I am very aware of the size doll I am giving away with the clothes and compare the fabric, lace and all items to match the proportion of the doll as though she was a child.

Sue Gunther
Sue Gunther

December 25, 2025

Definitely consider the size of buttons, zippers, trim and even hem width in proportion to the doll.

Elaine
Elaine

December 25, 2025

I start with 1/3 2/3 vertical scale. . Then I go with how it looks. Scale can be top to bottom, side to side (is collar too big), size of print on fabric, and how pleasing it looks overall. Observe scale in children’s clothing (in real life or pictures). Before choosing final choice of fabric I even “showcase” my choices on a flat surface. It is surprising what combinations are pleasing.

Jan P
Jan P

December 25, 2025

I’m always on the lookout for tiny patterns either at fabric shops or thrift stores. One of my favorite thrifted finds was an XL sleeveless blouse that had tiny light blue stripes and tiny red lobsters. I was able to make four of the Mulberry Street Summer Romper pattern. Then I found a lobster print at Hobby Lobby that was a little bigger scale, but worked perfectly for making sun hats. I love it when things work out like that!

MaryC
MaryC

December 25, 2025

I usually use my ‘own hand’ and the dolls hand to ‘compare’ items to determine if it’s ‘too big’ for the doll or not. I often work in threads (crocheter)… so I compare what a ‘yarn’ looks like on my hand to what it looks like on the dolls hand…which often ends up being a ‘sewing thread’ size on smaller dolls – yes – I crochet with sewing threads…. heavier threads just don’t ‘look right’ and there’s SO many colors available with sewing thread it makes it ‘fun’! :-) (that and a great lamp and magnifying glasses! LOL!!)

Barb
Barb

December 25, 2025

My friends give me their fabric scraps. If the prints are too big or not suitable to use for doll clothes, I use the fabric to make a quilt backing, a sleeping bag, or a tote bag for the little girl.

Jennifer
Jennifer

December 25, 2025

I try to look at a 5″×5″ section of the fabric. If the print show up well on that small patch, then I’m good.

Susan Fritz
Susan Fritz

December 25, 2025

Lots of great comments! I have resorted to taking a pattern piece or tracing to the fabric store to check for design size. On the size dolls I sew the most for, cutting the piece out of clear plastic like a clear page sleeve for a 3-ring binder works great and can be reused many times.

Lori Conn
Lori Conn

December 25, 2025

Love all the comments! Trying to find small scale fabrics for 18 inch dolls helps the outfits look more proportional.

Marie
Marie

December 25, 2025

Pay attention to the size of the EYES. Also, to a lesser extent the size of the hands and mouth. A doll like Blythe can look great with bigger prints than say, Barbie, even though the height is in the same range.

Debbie West
Debbie West

December 25, 2025

I don’t think I can add to any of the already good comments and suggestions. Thanks Ladies!

Janice
Janice

December 25, 2025

I like to shop for children’s clothes in 2nd hand stores. They usually have smaller designs. When I can find baby whale corduroy, I grab that, too. I deconstruct the clothes for my “girls.”

June
June

December 25, 2025

I don’t really have a design tip to determine proportion, I just image it on the doll. If it overtakes the doll, it’s to big.

Nicki
Nicki

December 25, 2025

In historical garments, I like to study the silhouette for each era as closely as possible, so I can get the bodice and skirt lengths, sleeves and trim widths to fit like the original garments, with a balance of shapes that were appropriate for the time.

Cassandra
Cassandra

December 25, 2025

Would I wear a print, buttons or trim the size I am considering for the doll if I was the size of the doll.

Cynthia W
Cynthia W

December 25, 2025

Size of print is so critical, and sometimes easier to use multiple solids to create colorful outfits without worrying about prints.

Julia
Julia

December 25, 2025

When trying to design for my American Girl doll, I get thrown by the imbalance of her head and body. Her head is huge for her body. I have to reduce the scale of the hats and emphasize the outfit details so it looks balanced. If I scale the hat to her head size, she will look like she’s about to topple over!
Is there a formula to use for the 18" dolls?

Julie Vasbinder
Julie Vasbinder

December 25, 2025

I look for small prints and lighter weight fabrics for my 14 inch and 18 inch doll clothes projects. I sometimes hold the print fabrics next to the doll, but mostly I just eyeball it. I will use larger prints for something casual like, pajama or lounge pants. Boxers for boy dolls look good with a biggger print.

Ernestine  Jones
Ernestine Jones

December 25, 2025

I use small prints like a lot of post civil war fabrics have small print and works fine for doll clothes.

Jacquie Corrigan
Jacquie Corrigan

December 25, 2025

The buttons or snaps are a giveaway – if they are too big the outfit just doesn’t look right.

Carol
Carol

December 25, 2025

Bring a doll with you, hold the fabric up to the doll- use you eyes for confirmation. Also place the dolls hand over part of the fabric, like a flower. If it doesn’t cover the entire flower it probably is to big.

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