Hi Everyone! In Part 3 of Serger Basics, Donna is joining us again as we take a look at using the three thread overlock stitch.
In this video, we will be focusing on understanding how to set up and use the three htead overlock stich and then contiune wiht our sew-along of the Savannah Skirt to practice the stitch. We will be using this stitch to give our raw edges a nice finish.
Follow along in the video below as I walk you through all the details of setting up your machine to sew the three thread overlock stitch. I'll show you several examples and go over my suggestions for serging different types of seam allownaces and whether or not to serge the raw edge or sew the seanline first. I've also included a demonstration on how to successfully serge a curved edge. And last but not least, we will jump back into sewing the Savannah Skirt.
What Is the three thread overlock and why should I use it?
The three thread overlock is created using one needle and two loopers. This is probably the stitch you would use most in sewing doll clothes. You’ll need to check your manual for the specifics on how to set up your model of serger for this stitch.
On many sergers, this stitch could be set up with the needle in either the left or right position, which affects the overall width of the stitch.
For doll clothes, the right needle position is best when used as a finish for the raw edges, as a wider stitch is more likely to be seen on the outside of the garment.
A few notes about proper threading and tension:
When the three thread overlock stitch is formed correctly, the upper looper, represented here by the blue thread, will lay flat on the top side of the fabric and extend from the needle thread to the raw edge of the fabric. The green needle thread is a straight line.
On the back side, the most visible thread is the red lower looper, which lays flat across the fabric extending from the raw edge to the underside of the needle stitching.
Now let’s look at some examples of improperly formed stitches.
If the upper looper (blue thread) is too tight, it will not lay flat across the width of the stitch and the lower looper will be pulled toward the top of the fabric. When the back is examined, you can see that the fabric is being curled or pulled inward.
If the lower looper (red thread) is too tight, the fabric will be curled in a similar way. In this case, the blue upper looper is pulled around the raw edge and the red lower looper does not extend fully to lay flat on the back of the fabric.
If the loopers are too loose, they will form little scallops of thread loops off the edge of the fabric. This situation can be adjusted either by changing the cutting width or the tension on the loopers.
If the needle thread is too loose, the stitch may appear okay on the top side, but a look at the under side shows that loops will form to indicate the problem with the tension.
If the needle thread is too tight, the fabric will get somewhat eased or gathered creating puckers.
Week Two Tasks:
Be sure to join us next Tuesday as we focus on the 4 thread overlock stitch and continue sewing the skirt.