Hi Everyone! In part 4 we switch things up a bit and experiment with a new pattern hack. This design idea simplifies the coat with a streamlined back removing the pleated section. Now, I know this is one of the cutest design elements, but maybe you'd like a simple coat for every day or a coat that works for a boy doll too! This hack is easy to do, follow along and watch the process, then you can try it out on your own! Or you can wait a day or two and get the pattern pieces as a download :)
Piccadilly Peacoat Pattern Hack: The Classic Peacoat
Ready to get started? For this design we will use all of the pattern pieces except for the Back Skirt. We will be replacing the Back, Side Back, and Lining with modified pieces.
Here's a breakdown of the process to create the new pattern pieces:
Cut out and set aside all of the pattern pieces except for the Back, Side Back, and Back Lining. The Side Front is used as a guide.
Get your pattern drafting supplies - Graph paper or tracing paper, pencil, acrylic design ruler, and removable tape. A Light Board is a great tool too!
Place the Side Back on the graph paper. Mark the new length by setting the Side Front next to it to determine the new hemline.
Trace the new Side Back side seam to match the curved shape of the Side Front.
Create a gently curved princess seam line for the opposite side. Draw the stitching lines to finish the piece.
Place the Back piece on the paper, lined up with the armscye/side seam stitching line. Draw the new hemline and then draw the gently curved princess seamline to connect the original piece to the new hemline. The curve should extend about 1/4" when it reaches the hemline.Draw the center back seam line and trace all the other sedges of the piece. Draw the stitching lines and your pieces is ready to use.
To create the modified Back Lining piece, simply line up and trace the side seam of the Side Back with the existing Back Lining piece. Line up the armscyes and extend the piece to the new hemline on both the side seam and the center back edge.
Add a notch marking to the Side Back piece along the side seam for the belt placement.
Here's a breakdown of the revised sewing instructions:
Follow the instructions for steps 1-5 to sew the Back and Side Back pieces. For this version the pieces will be full length. Note - I was using a thicker wool fabric for this project, so I pressed my seams open instead of to one side to reduce the bulk.
Skip steps 6-13.
Continue sewing steps 14-42, noting that the Back Lining is full length for this design.
Continue sewing through step 48. At this step, you will sew the full side seam of the ling on one side and on the opposite side, leave a 2" gap in the side seam open so you can turn the coat right side out. Sew about an inch up from the bottom hemline and an inch down from the top of the side seam/underarm.
Continue sewing to Step 50. Pin the entire perimeter edge of the coat, around the entire hemline. Stitch all the way around.
Skip steps 53-54. Whipstitch the small opening at the side seam.
Continue following the instructions to finish the coat!
Congratulations! Your Classic Peacoat is finished!
We'd love to see your finished coats! Be sure to share them in the SWC Facebook group for all to see!
I bought a 1/2 yard piece and I used just about half of it. My lining was purchased a while back at JoAnn Fabrics.
Interested in making your own clothing labels? Here's a video I made years back showing how I made mine with iron on paper and narrow ribbon.
Option 2: You could also do something similar with printed fabric and a product like Heat n Bond. No need for the ribbon, just apply the fusible web to the printed fabric and then cut them out and iron them on to your garment. Stitch around the edges for a long lasting label.
Reminder: If you're looking to download any of these videos, click on over to the the SWC Bonuses page to get the link and password for this months topic collection on Vimeo.