Inspired by a fashion plate, the “Brighton” pattern, by Karen Lorraine Design, focuses on the Victorian Bustle days, in-particular the Natural Form Era of the 1880s. The Brighton ensemble is made up of four pieces: the Bodice/Jacket, Foundation/Underskirt, Overskirt, and a detachable Train. With options for boning the Bodice, and instructions for mini-pleated trims and bustle ties, this pattern allows your doll to be beautifully reminiscent of a stylish time in history.
The Foundation Skirt creates the base of this outfit, while also being a stunning skirt within its own right. With a side placket opening and a gored-skirt, this piece flares charmingly over the 18-inch doll. The addition of historic bustle ties and knee casing lends authenticity to the outfit, while also helping to create the bustle effect. Optional mini-pleating around the hemline adds further authenticity as well as providing structure and texture.
The Overskirt is cut on the bias and contains gentle pleats so as to loosely drape and contrast with the tighter forms elsewhere. A fitted waistband and a back opening complement the piece.
The Bodice/Jacket has the option of boning, thus allowing for a highly couture finish. Front darts and princess lines further fit the Bodice to offer a stunning silhouette and structure. The square neckline can be trimmed with mini-pleats or lace, while a waist stay adds the final fitting element.
The Detachable Train completes the outfit with its subtle pleats and tacks, and offers many opportunities for further embellishments.
Also used with this pattern is the method of flatlining (and not underlining). This is a historical method that helps with clothing construction including to hold the trims in place.
Note: To be historically realistic, your doll would wear a chemise, drawers, corset, and 1-2 petticoats under this outfit. These undergarment pattern pieces are not included in this pattern.
This pattern is designed to fit 18-inch dolls like American Girl® or Our Generation™.
SUGGESTED FABRICS: Quilting cottons, Cotton, Broadcloth and similar woven-cotton, non-stretch fabrics (for main fashion fabrics). Organza or organdie or similar non-stretch fabrics for flatlining fabric.
Note: If you are making the entire outfit and would like a quick reference to the three main fabric amounts necessary, here they are:
* Fabric “One” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]
* Fabric “Two” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]
* Fabric “Three” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 106 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.Download, Print, Sew!
It is not an easy pattern and I struggled at first but eventually finished the outfit. I used a polyester silk (real silk was out of my price range) and cotton, everything was recycled including the flat lining and ribbon. I think it looks stunning and so does everyone who has seen it. I did use the flat lining on the jacket but once the boning was in place I felt I had to fully line the bodice, excluding the sleeves and I think it looks much better. I added a reticule, hat and shoes all using the same fabric used in the dress.
Fit lovely and look great I enjoyed making them
I enjoyed making this outfit. While it did include the use of boning, I removed it afterwards as I found it was fine without it. Part of what makes this and other outfits looks so amazing are the trims and details, so I recommend taking the time to pick out and use coordinated trims on your outfits. I took my doll out into the park to get some pics in a realistic background and enjoyed it immensely.