Victorian Unmentionables 18" Doll Clothes

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Until the early 19th century, a corset and linen chemise were all the underwear a woman thought necessary, or even desirable. It wasn't until the turn of the century, when the use of very light fabrics became popular, that women even considered wearing underpants as a necessity for added warmth. When the crinoline was introduced toward the middle of the century, its tendency to fly up at inopportune moments created yet another need for underpants. 
Queen Victoria's standards of propriety were so stringent that she soon ensured that the fashion for underpants would become a staple article of clothing in every woman's wardrobe. 
Pantalettes, an adaptation of men's pantaloons, were the earliest style of underpants used by women. They were also called drawers because they were composed of two separate leg sections that were tied on at the waist with drawstrings. Early on, these were considered a fashion accessory and were decorated with frills and lace and allowed to hang several inches below the hemline. By the middle of the century, drawers were connected at the waist to form a one piece garment, though the crotch was still left open. The loose style of the garment, however, accommodated the opening and afforded a degree of modesty. 
By the 1870's, drawers started to become an “unmentionable” part of a woman's wardrobe. It was no longer appropriate to show off ones drawers so they were shortened to just below the knee. Despite this, many women still took pains to embellish their drawers with frills and lace much to the chagrin of those who thought it a waste of materials. 

This PDF pattern ensemble includes a chemise, drawers, corset, crinoline, and petticoat. It is designed to be worn with the 1850s and 1860s Thimbles and Acorns dress patterns, though the corset, chemise, and petticoat are suitable for the entire Victorian era. 


Supplies Needed:
-Chemise ~ 1/3 yard (1/3 m).
-Drawers ~  1/4 yard (1/4 m).
-Petticoat ~ 1/3 yard (1/3 m).
-Crinoline ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m).
*Note: Chemise, Drawers, Petticoat, and Crinoline can all be made with 1 yard of fabric.
-Corset ~ 1/4 yard (1/4M).
-Notions:  Thread.  Chemise ~ 12-inches 3/8-inch wide flat lace, one 3/8-inch button.  Drawers ~ 16-inches 1-inch wide flat lace, one 3/8-inch button OR a set of size 2/0 snaps.  Petticoat ~ 48-inches 1-inch wide flat lace, on 3/8-inch button OR a set of size 2/0 snaps.  Crinoline ~ 24-inches narrow cotton cord, 3 yards 1/4-inch sewable boning.  Corset ~ Fourteen 1/4-inch eyelets, 4-inches of hook and eye tape (four sets of hooks and eyes total), 2/3 yard 1/2-inch wide flat lace, 48-inches 1/4-inch wide sewable boning, 48-inches narrow cotton cord or ribbon. 

Suggested Fabrics:  Chemise, Drawers, Petticoat,and Crinoline in lightweight cotton batiste, muslin or handkerchief linen.  Plain white was most common, but colors and prints were also used. Choose period prints with images no larger than 1-inch.  Not suitable for knits. Corset ~ in medium weight fabric such as muslin, silk, or linen.  Not suitable for knits.


Skill Level:  Intermediate. The basic pattern itself is not too difficult, but some sewing experience is helpful. 


What You Get: One 27 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides digitally drawn step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available

Download, Print, Sew!

*Creating a customer account will ensure that you have the ability to access your purchased (and free) files at any time.

For detailed information and answers to the most common questions, be sure to read the Terms of Use and FAQ's related to the doll clothes patterns sold at Pixie Faire.

PixieFaire and the designers featured are not affiliated with American Girl®


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Yay! So adorable.

I made the corset, the drawers, and shift from this pattern. All worked out fabulously. I love the historically accurate open-crotch drawers. She really does all the details in her patterns.

Debbie R.
United States

This is a wonderful pattern!

The pattern is very well done with clear instructions, I really enjoyed making the ******.

Tina H.
United States

Love them

Love the pattern and the fact they gave us the glossary terms. I do suggest you read through the steps before you start (as the directions indicate) as it will help you understand some of the other steps a lot better. Gave it four stars as the directions need to have a little more explanation. Example: packaging needs to be added to the glossary terms or changed to state “facing” to match step 2 for consistency. The step referring to the drawers (18) needs to clarify that the sides are different on the pattern so they cannot be on on the same side when making the hems. I still can’t follow the directions for the neck piece of the chemise, but that could just be me. Things like that. The Pictures were a great addition, but some pictures with real fabric may be able to help explain the steps that can be confusing. The drawn pictures for most steps are a great help while others make it hard to tell what the steps are referring to. Overall this is a great pattern and I would tell my friends to buy it. Also, the staff was wonderful at answering questions and if you join the sewing class the people making the pattern are also there to help (as well as the other student).

Darlene P.
United States


Really excited to start my new pattern Thank you

Sloan S.
United States


I had a wonderful time make the Victorian Unmentionables to go with the Susan B Anthony Outfit. The petticoat is black to go with the skirt, but I had all the laces and fabric in my stash to create these lovely little pieces!