16th Century German Smocked Hemd 18" Doll Clothes Pattern


Is your doll learning about her ancestors? Or maybe she lives in the 16th Century. Perhaps she needs a new 16th Century German Smocked Hemd.

The term hemd is simply the German word for shirt, chemise, or smock, but what sets this design apart, is the smocking that is used to shape the collar. Although there are no extant examples of a hemd with a complete smocked collar, there is evidence in German portraiture and archaeological finds that suggest this style originated in Germany in the early 16th century. By the 1520s, this elegantly detailed hemd had become a fashionable undergarment with upper class men and women throughout Europe and England. The smocking on this hemd continues below the collar to ease the fullness of the chemise over the shoulders. The full sleeves are smocked at the wrist for fit and decorative detail. This chemise is made in the traditional style with underarm gussets instead of a shaped armscye. Unlike other chemises from this time period, this has raglan style sleeves.

The seam allowances in the instructions are machine finished, but if you would like to finish your seam allowances with French seams, see our Sewing A Themed Wardrobe: Renaissance Era tutorial in Sewing with Cinnamon!

This PDF sewing pattern by Thimbles and Acorns is designed to fit 18" dolls such as American Girl® and Other Similarly Sized Dolls.

TA Pattern #1530-02

Suggested Fabrics: Hemd in light weight cotton batiste, lawn, or silk.  

Supplies Needed:  

  • Hemd - 1/3 yard 45” wide fabric


  • Thread
  • Embroidery Floss
  • Two 1/8” shank buttons or one 1/4” shank button


  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Iron and pressing tools
  • Blunt needle or point turner


Skill Level:  Intermediate

What You Get: One 27 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.

Download, Print, Sew!

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For detailed information and answers to the most common questions, be sure to read the Terms of Use and FAQ's related to the doll clothes patterns sold at Pixie Faire.

Pixie Faire and the designers featured are not affiliated with American Girl®

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