Christmas is one of my favorite times of year â a season of creativity, generosity, and reflection. This year I wanted to continue to celebrate in a way thatâs meaningful, fun, and deeply connected to what we love most:Â design, sewing, and growing together as makers.

So today, Iâm excited to announce the 15th annual 12 Days of Christmas Celebration, inspired by the 15th anniversary of the Design Academy-12 Principles of Design.
For the next 12 days, weâll be sharing:
âď¸ One Design Academy Principle per day
đĄ A practical Design Tip you can use immediately
đŹ A daily blog comment prompt for you to earn entries in our giveaway
đ A $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card giveaway â announced on January 6th
Each day we'll jump back to this blog post to highlight one of the twelve design principles and invite you to join the conversation by leaving a comment. Every comment is an entry to win the $100 gift card. The more you participate, the more entries you earn!
And thereâs more....
These 12 principles are also the foundation of something very special coming in 2026âŚ

Twelve principles. Twelve months. One unforgettable year of growth.
In 2026, Cinnamon Miles is opening the vault and teaching the Design Academy like never beforeâfifteen years after she first published the landmark series that inspired thousands of sewists worldwide. This is a complete, modernized re-imagining, blending Liberty Janeâs iconic design principles with Sewing With Cinnamonâs techniques, challenges, and creative opportunities.
We're bringing the Design Academy into Sewing With Cinnamon in 2026 using the core principles to guide our 2026 topics and this year, thereâs even more:
Historical fashion deep dives with guest instructor Shari Fuller. Designer spotlight showcases. Sew Powerful Purse crossover projects. And a brand-new challenge every month.
If you loved the original Design Academy, you havenât seen anything yet!
Read all the detail of the 2026 overview HERE. Existing SWC members are already in! If you're not a member yet, we invite you to join us, it all starts on January 6, 2026.
The 12 Days of Christmas is your preview of whatâs coming â and a great way to jump back into thinking like a designer and getting the most out of your Pixie Faire pattern collection.
Letâs celebrate creativity, learning, and sewing together this Christmas season.
Merry Christmas,
Cinnamon & Team Pixie Faire
Â
đ Winner announced 1/6/26!
Today (12/25) we kick things off with Principle #1: Proportion, and your first entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Proportion: Scale is invisible when it's right and noticeable when it's wrong!
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt:
Whatâs your best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll you're sewing for?
Today (12/26) we kick things off with Principle #1: Focal Point, and your second entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Focal Point: Choose ONE star of the show. Whether itâs a bold fabric, a special embellishment, a unique neckline, or a pop of contrast â one clear focal point will always outperform several competing ones.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: Whatâs your favorite way to create a focal point â color, embellishment, trim, or fabric choice?
(Check back each day for the next comment prompt for additional entries!)
Â
When it comes to scale in doll design I am quite particular about getting the right fabrics and design for the different doll sizes.
I think the one exception to the rule though are Blythe dolls. For some reason, with their big heads, big eyes and small slim bodies, somehow they can get away with âout of proportionâ fabric designs! Often bigger prints or a big focal point adds to their overall âquirkinessâ.
I tend to stick with solid colors and miniature prints. I try to imagine if the item i am making is human scale if the print looks right or clownish.
Scale is interesting, and I would either eyeball the proportions to see if they look right or purchase some Pixie Packs to see what scale you sell and then apply that knowledge at the fabric store. If I wanted to get technical, I would find or make a scale ruler and look for prints that would be appropriate according to âthe ruler.â For example, architecture rulers are available in certain scales, or when I collected miniature doll house furniture I knew the 1" equals 12" rule and there were special rulers for that. Miniature collectors are particular, so I would use a ruler to craft from clay or other materials to make accessories. I also collected some doll houses for doll houses that were 1" = 144". Some other scales are 1:6 for Barbie Dolls & 15" dolls; 1:3 for 18" dolls; 1:4 for 14" dolls; You can see these doll scales are ballpark figures for some sizes, so I would tend to toss away the ruler & rely on my own senses to make the final call. If I was going to print the design & sublimate onto fabric I would probably be more specific about sizing, but for play clothes for my grands Iâd just eyeball it, fabric with the absolute best scale isnât necessarily that easy to find. Imagine how that fabric would look on a doll size pocket⌠would it only fit 1 or 2 stripes, skip it. Would a huge fabric flower look more like a beautiful abstract design on the doll- it may be a keeper.
I take a doll shirt to the store with me when looking for notions and trim. It helps me to directly compare the scale that way.
Honestly, I just eyeball it before I choose my fabrics.
I think because I sewed people clothes for so many years, my eye is naturally trained to create and look for the exact same image in miniature.
Iâd say an important consideration is the size of the print on the fabric youâre using.
The size of a fabric design should match the size of the garment. A fabric that looks appropriate for an adult may not âfitâ the garment for a doll.
I struggle with scale. My general rule is no print that is bigger than an inch and the smaller, the better. It has always been so hard to find fabric that is scale appropriate . . . But now that our local craft store closed, itâs impossible. Pictures online often donât give a true sizing
The scale of the fabric print or the details really matter in doll clothes. I think of how big a button or snap would be in relation to how big my hand is. For a doll you wouldnât think those items would be bigger than his or her hand.
Whatâs your best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll youâre sewing for?
If the fabric online has a ruler next to the picture, I look for prints with the most repeat within 6 inches.
Scale is very important when sewing for dolls. Look for fabric that is the proper print for a dolls size. Same goes for the chosen buttons, lace and other trims. Let your eye decide.
Scale is so much more in design than the print, stripe or plaid of the fabric. As someone pointed out, it also includes notions and accessories. I have frequently seen outfits for golls with poorly chosen buttons that totally destroy the sense of scale. The worst faux pas I ever observed was with a commercially produced (Name brand) doll soccer outfit with a soccer ball the relative size of a baseball.
I check the distance from the neckline to the waist, and the waist to the bottom hem. If they seem appropriate, Iâm happy with the design. If there is no waist, I draw one on the pattern (or mentally) to check the relationships from neck to waist to hem.
My favorite way to create a focal point us with color.
I look at flowers on the print. If theyâre bigger than the dollâs hand, the print is too big.
I look at the dollâs hands next to the fabric to determine if a print is the right scale. Then I look at my hands and the prints I wear, designs like florals should be 1-2 fingers wide.
Day 1. I think fabric print being in proportion is one of the biggest things I look for in doll clothes. I dont like it when the doll clothes look like DOLL clothes instead of magically shrunk clothes. If in person shopping for fabric I always visualize the doll in front of me and compare it to the fabric to see if the print is small enough to be in proportion. Now with online fabric shopping being the way of the future, its harder to see how big a print is. Sometimes they have a coin for scale or a ruler for scale and you can use that and hold it up to your doll to visualize how the print would look on your doll.
With doll clothes or build a bear clothes smaller prints work best.
Proportion equal design of pattern pan collar cap sleeves or sleeves with cuff button color contrast or matching color or design of fabric small print. Choose fabric i look at pattern picture and era of the pattern each era have different styles of fashion design 40 âs are different from 70âs and size of doll 11 1/2 , doll tiny print fabric
Well I pretty much have to use a pattern which is why I like Pixiefaire with their wide array of patterns. Maybe this is the year I can finally get my sewing room set up and back into sewing.
I look for the label of âsmall scale" and hopefully, a diagram that shows the design with both a horizontal and vertical inch grid.
Iâm new to sewing but I like to find a doll assesory associated with the thing Iâm making and use that for scale
I am a visual person and look more for color than scale. I can usually tell if the print is to large. But loved the comment that said to turn the fabric on the bias for an alternate choice.
thank everyone for the great hints and ideals. Canât wait to try some of them soon.
I am a visual person and look more for color than scale. I can usually tell if the print is to large. But loved the comment that said to turn the fabric on the bias for an alternate choice.
thank everyone for the great hints and ideals. Canât wait to try some of them soon.
I have a traced outline of each doll I am shopping on a piece of paper which I carry around in an old envelope. There arenât any fabric stores near me so i have to upcycle all my fabrics. I lay the paper outline on the shirt, dress, whatever, and see if the fabric pattern overwhelms my outline, also have to check if the clothes have a large enough flat area to cut out pattern pieces. Lately Iâve discovered menâs shirts have a lot of extremely tiny vintage prints which work very well for even the tiniest dolls.
smaller prints on fabric
I select small prints and prints for babies. .
If weâre talking proportions as when designing an outfit, I usually sketch it out on the full pattern blanks, then step back or compare it to a photo or a person wearing a similar item. I choose fabric prints as the smaller the better, and buttons are a âplace and ponderâ before sewing on. Then I can step back and see how many and if they fit the scale I was going for.
I love looking for small prints for doll sewing. And you never need to buy much.
I like to use baby clothes for fabric for dolls.
I select small prints and prints for babies. they usually work fine.
Iâm not great at math and percentages so I look for the smallest prints I can find. I miss all the ditsy florals that used to be available in the 70âs and 80âs!
I have been sewing for over 60 years, starting when I was a young teenager. With that many years of experience plus a God-given gift of sewing, I can usually see what fabric will work with a pattern and doll for which I will be sewing. I just inherited a large amount of fabric. As I was going through it, I would say to myself, âThis fabric would be good for this doll and this pattern.â or something for another project that Iâm sewing. I think the best thing for anyone to do is to lay some fabric on the pattern picture to see if it will work for that pattern or not.
I use a pattern piece of clear plastic to check the scale. This works for me!
I find that sticking to prints designed for infants can work well for dolls, but does also limit print choices. I prefer online stores that let you order swatches because that way not only can I see the print in person I can judge how it looks when draped or pleated as well.
When I look at fabric, if I can âseeâ the outfit I could make in my mind for a doll, itâs a winner!
I look for small designs in fabric. I also use a little square about one inch wide when I have doubts. Prompt.
As for overall scale, I donât put a great deal of thought into scale when selecting fabrics. I suppose I do, but not consciously. I tend to select fabrics that âspeak to meâ for the dolls. The sad part is that it is getting harder to see fabric in person to really be able to gauge the actual scale. When you can only select from a small online swatch, you have to hope they at least put a tape measure in the photo.
I just look for tiny scale fabrics that look small enough for the doll.
I was interested to read the comment where the writer dabbles in polymer clay and makes some of her own small-scale buttons in the colors and sizes needed. I also enjoyed the comment that mentioned how sometimes a print that might seem like it would be too big actually ends up working.
I look for smaller designs. When I am out I try to use my little finger for a flower. If it covers it perfect. For stripes I think of the dolls finger.
Usually comparing it to their hand is a good place to start as many have said. After youâve been sewing for dolls for a while you generally get a pretty good feel for what will work.
I love fabric with stripes that are no wider than the dolls finger.
I agree with draping the fabric on the doll and stepping back to see if it feels right..
Love the suggestion for cutting a pattern piece of clear plastic to check scale when Iâm out thrifting. Might use copier paper with the pattern piece cut outâŚgood view finder. Thanks for the tip.
Iâm working now with a floral chiffon fabric with 1 1/8" burgundy flowers in the designâŚ.a bit large. But they sit in a scattering of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1" flowers. The larger motif blends in with the randomness of the design. The white center of the 1 1/8" flower pops out like a small flower. The fabricâs dark background absorbs and diminishes the size of the burgundy flower. It works.
The smaller the doll, the smaller the print. Larger prints just donât look right on small clothes.
I like small prints, solids or small stripes. I hold it up to the doll to determine if the print is right. I measure the doll to determine length and only use small lace and Rick rack
I like to look in catalogs at girlsâ clothing for ages 9-11. So I like to see if a check pattern is used in a dress picture, I try to estimate what the size is for the check pattern. Once I have that approximate size, I turn it into the 1:3 scale. So if the plaid is a 1-inch square, I would then look for a plaid for the dolls with the square being 1/3 of an inch. This would then give it a very appropriate size for the doll dress. Or if it something more complex, like a floral motif, again I would measure it and divide it by 1/3. And Iâm not against using a calculator either!!!! ggg Hope this helps someone else.
I usually look at the print next to doll from a distance, that helps with proportion. Another idea is if the print is too big, like a large plaid, turn the fabric on the bias. That way, it can be less about the print and more about the color or texture of the fabric.
For dolls I like at most 1 small print with solids. Trims need to be smallâI like baby rickrack.
I hold the fabric up against the doll, to see if the pattern scale is right.
Iâm new at this. I like the answers of using the dollâs hand to help with scale.
I wrap fabric around my hand to determine appropriate scale of prints to doll size. Iâm rarely disappointed.
Proportion is everything. It can make or break an outfit small or big. I like to look at things in 3 ways. 1 close up, 2 from a distance, and 3 take a picture to look at. Each one has itâs own benefits. I like to look back at a photo of the outfit. It is amazing what your eye picks out of the phot good or bad.
When making historical doll clothes for 18" dolls, I try to find prints with a 33% scale. If they also need to be era-appropriate, you can understand why I often use solids!
Others have mentioned it already, but I find that using the size of the doll hand works well in determining the size of a print. You donât need to take the doll with you, just cut a piece card stock the size of the hand to hold up to the fabric. Then think about how that would look if it were your hand.
Also, I think that over time we develop an âeyeâ for proportion â whether it is the print on fabric, buttons, snaps, or trim.
I use small to medium print cotton or woolens. I usually use 1/2 to 1 inch trims. Buttons -3/8ths to 1/2 inch. I have won many ribbons on my 18 inch dolls. This past year, I started sewing for 14 inch dolls-as a smaller sister or brother for the 18 inch. I use smaller prints and smaller trims, and buttons for this size doll.
Scale that is too large for the doll always bothers me. I compare the print to the dollâs hand and try to imagine how that would compare to something I would wear.
The smaller the better. Sometimes it depends on what I want to make for the doll.
Scale of thickness is as important as the size of the fabric pattern and trims. A fake fur, polar fleece, or thick corduroy can be a disaster on small doll clothes.
I try to use very small prints, dots, and stripes. But if I find a fabric with a larger print that I like, I simply hold the fabric up to the doll. If I like it, I use it.
My best tip for determining proportion is to imagine the trim, button, print on myself and see if that would work. For example, if a flower on the fabric extends from the dollâs shoulder to her waist, what would that look like if I wore a print that large for me?
If a print is bigger than the dollâs hand it is too big, in my opinion.
I think different techniques are useful depending on what youâre checking. Checking the scale of a pattern, for instance, is different than checking the scale of the print on the fabric. Iâve seen lots of good ideas in the comments. I love learning new techniques.
Hi,
Iâm super excited for all the advice! I am brand new to sewing doll clothes. Iâve literally only made one so far :)
I like the small prints because it looks more realistic on the doll.
If Iâm not sure about the size of the print, I will actually lay a doll on top of it, walk away and look at it from a distance first. If the fabric design jumps out at me first, itâs too large for the doll. I do try to stick with smaller prints and âblendersâ since I sew for a charity . I usually make doll clothes in groups of 6 or more at a time, unless I only have enough fabric for one or two.
I like to break the rules and let the design emerge on its own. Sometimes something that seems too large actually works.
I generally get fabric from one of my patients at work. I donât think she always picks the correct design size for the dolls. Here locally we donât have a real good selection on fabrics any more. Hobby Lobby has a few cotton,but nothing with print in knits. Michaels donât carry much, then we have Walmart. I really like the smaller prints for doll clothes but sometimes I get lucky
Not only does the fabric design have to be a good scale, but it must be close enough together that it looks like a print on a shirt and not a spot! Many great scale prints are just spaced wrong! I also judge by eye as I have been doing it a long time and can see when things are âjust not quite right.â
I agree on the small print rule, but sometimes just a little larger print can be a nice surprise. It just depends on the doll size and the look I am trying to create.
I like using all kinds of fabrics, faux fur and suiting. I look for what catches by eye in color than look for a small print.
I look for tiny prints, trying to stay around the 1/4 inch scale prints or less. Sometimes the 1/2 prints are ok, depending on what you are making.
I think that if a print is bigger than my thumb, it is too big for the doll.
I like Leslie Joâs suggestion about not using a print with a repeat larger than a dollâs hand.
Iâm always looking for smaller size prints for making doll clothes. Sometimes I find some small prints on childrenâs ready to wear. I can deconstruct these and resew doll clothes from the fabric.
Nothing bigger than my thumbnail in a floral print for 18 inch dolls is my usual rule of thumb (literally in this case).
I look for small prints and small scale notions. I also dabble in polymer clay which allows me to more closely match button colors and scales. I look to see what size buttons would be used in human clothing and scale them back. I DO make slightly larger and slightly smaller verisions to see what looks best even if the scale is slightly offf.
If I canât actually bring my doll with me, Iâve learned that my forearm is roughly the same length as my doll⌠so any fabric or patterning I drape along and if it looks too big for this length, I try to find something smaller.
I select fabrics for dolls using my fingers. If my pinkie finger can cover a design element in a print, itâs good for 12â dolls. My pointer finger works for 15-16â dolls and my thumb works for SD sized BJDs. For lace, Iâm always keeping my eyes open for small scale.
Hope everyone had a great holiday
I hold the fabric up to a doll to check the proportion.
I try to stay away from large plaids for projects with small pleats or ruffles. The smaller the area the smaller the print
I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,
I like to use light weight fabric, small buttons and lace or ribbons,
Jâaime coudre. Jâutilise de beaux tissus afin de mettre en valeur montravail.
Thank you for the many free give aways and for providing us with top notch doll patterns over the years. I have loved knitting, crocheting and sewing many of the patterns and love how the fit comes out and the details are phenomenal!! Thank you so much
When working with 18â dolls, scale is very important period doll clothes, less so for childrenâs doll clothes for play. When vetting an accessory, trim, button or fabric print I visualize it 3X as big (a ½â wide lace would be 1 ½â in reality, a 5mm button would be 15mm, a fabric with a 1â stripe would be 3â, and so on.) Take into consideration era and style. A ½â button (which multiplies out to being 1 ½â) might be perfectly right for a 60âs mod, float dress accent but totally too big for most other eras. A ½â Kam snap is probably fine for childrenâs play clothes, but oversized for historical closures and should be replaced with regular snaps, hooks or velcro. (For 14â dolls I visualize the item in question 4x larger.)
P.S. Donât forget to take into consideration the thickness of your fabric, as well. ;-)
I donât have any method for determining the appropriate scale. I generally just try to buy fabric with a small scale. For trims, itâs been trial and error and Iâve found what I think works best.
I enjoy quilting as well as making doll clothing so I am naturally drawn to small prints. I especially like the 1930s and 1940s reproduction fabrics.
If Iâm sewing for an American Girl doll, I remember that she is a 1/3 scale doll. Itâs easy to do the math and consider that a 1-inch flower on her dress would be equal to a 3-inch flower on a human dress. Notions, such as buttons, that are too large can instantly look out of place on a small doll. Itâs hard to find really small buttons and other decorative items, but itâs essential!
i love sewing and these patterns
I am naturally drawn to very small prints for 18" dolls. A dash of a solid can soften a slightly larger print.
I donât take this topic as seriously as I might if I were sewing to sell. Iâm naturally drawn to small prints, but itâs my hobby interest, and Iâm only sewing to please myself. My dolls graciously accept whatever I make.
Small prints or solids are a necessary part of making doll clothes look realistic. Appropriate sized trims are important too. Itâs become a bit difficult to find smaller trims in various colors since COVID but I have found two solutions: 1 shop at thrift/antique shops for small trims or 2 find an appropriate white cotton trim and die to the needed color.
The real large prints are obviously out unless they are like a watercolor print and then I usually put that with a plain bodice. I can reverse that idea also by putting the darker color at the bottom.
I look for small prints, and fabric weight for drape. I have read many god ideas in the previous comments. Thank you, everyone
I do the math. American Girls are about one third the size of a child, so Iâll imagine the scale three times bigger and decide if it makes sense.
My best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll Iâm sewing for ⌠will be to make sure that the pattern and the fabric (print) are the appropriate size for the doll.
Iâve learned over the years that sometimes just because I like a certain fabric pattern, that doesnât mean the proportion makes it a good one for doll fashion. I agree with the wrapping the fabric around the dolls to get a feel for how it would look. I mean, the same is true for human fashion. Different sizes can sometimes prefer larger or smaller patterns on the fabric. Also it seems sometimes the larger patterns can be balanced with fabric using smaller patterns throughout. I look forward to discussing this more!
Anja
December 26, 2025
Color