Christmas is one of my favorite times of year â a season of creativity, generosity, and reflection. This year I wanted to continue to celebrate in a way thatâs meaningful, fun, and deeply connected to what we love most:Â design, sewing, and growing together as makers.

So today, Iâm excited to announce the 15th annual 12 Days of Christmas Celebration, inspired by the 15th anniversary of the Design Academy-12 Principles of Design.
For the next 12 days, weâll be sharing:
âď¸ One Design Academy Principle per day
đĄ A practical Design Tip you can use immediately
đŹ A daily blog comment prompt for you to earn entries in our giveaway
đ A $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card giveaway â announced on January 6th
Each day we'll jump back to this blog post to highlight one of the twelve design principles and invite you to join the conversation by leaving a comment. Every comment is an entry to win the $100 gift card. The more you participate, the more entries you earn!
And thereâs more....
These 12 principles are also the foundation of something very special coming in 2026âŚ

Twelve principles. Twelve months. One unforgettable year of growth.
In 2026, Cinnamon Miles is opening the vault and teaching the Design Academy like never beforeâfifteen years after she first published the landmark series that inspired thousands of sewists worldwide. This is a complete, modernized re-imagining, blending Liberty Janeâs iconic design principles with Sewing With Cinnamonâs techniques, challenges, and creative opportunities.
We're bringing the Design Academy into Sewing With Cinnamon in 2026 using the core principles to guide our 2026 topics and this year, thereâs even more:
Historical fashion deep dives with guest instructor Shari Fuller. Designer spotlight showcases. Sew Powerful Purse crossover projects. And a brand-new challenge every month.
If you loved the original Design Academy, you havenât seen anything yet!
Read all the detail of the 2026 overview HERE. Existing SWC members are already in! If you're not a member yet, we invite you to join us, it all starts on January 6, 2026.
The 12 Days of Christmas is your preview of whatâs coming â and a great way to jump back into thinking like a designer and getting the most out of your Pixie Faire pattern collection.
Letâs celebrate creativity, learning, and sewing together this Christmas season.
Merry Christmas,
Cinnamon & Team Pixie Faire
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đ Winner announced 1/6/26!
Today (12/25) we kick things off with Principle #1: Proportion, and your first entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Proportion: Scale is invisible when it's right and noticeable when it's wrong!
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt:
Whatâs your best tip for determining scale in relation to the doll you're sewing for?
Today (12/26) we kick things off with Principle #1: Focal Point, and your second entry for the $100 Pixie Faire Gift Card.
đĄDesign Tip - Focal Point: Choose ONE star of the show. Whether itâs a bold fabric, a special embellishment, a unique neckline, or a pop of contrast â one clear focal point will always outperform several competing ones.
đ To enter: Leave a comment under this blog post. Comment Prompt: Whatâs your favorite way to create a focal point â color, embellishment, trim, or fabric choice?
(Check back each day for the next comment prompt for additional entries!)
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It really depends on which doll Iâm sewing for⌠lately Iâve been sewing a lot for mini mias which are 9â tall but have shorter bodies and bigger heads. I know that the bodice is going to be about 2 1/2â across but only about 1 3/4â long so I think about how much of the fabric will show in that measurement. If a particular pattern gets cut off in that small size, I wonât use it ( like a 3â long cat thatâs 2â high). The kids that I sew for like novelty fabrics best so I do pick out fabrics with those cute items on them, I just try to make sure theyâre going to fit in the design. I fussy cut the bodices so they work out. If I sew for a doll like Ruby Red, I do take proportions into account though because I usually am sewing for adults and adults want clothes that look appropriate. I do love sewing both kinds of outfits because I get to try all kinds of different ideas and make them work. Itâs a challenge for someone like me who gets bored easily! Iâm learning a lot and I enjoy trying out new ideas.
You really canât go too small. Many of my own clothes have very tiny prints. If Iâm unsure about a print being too big, I just drape it on the doll and decide if it looks good that way.
I drape a corner of the fabric across/around the doll to see if I like the size of a print with the doll and the planned pattern. Some eras need smaller prints, some, like the 70s, can shine with bolder proportions.
I agree with earlier posts. To-scale buttons, ribbons, lace and trims are critical to an outfit looking correct. I think they are particularly important with period clothing.
I like to use plain fabrics and contrast them to avoid having to look for really small print. Or if Iâm sewing for the little kids (like my 4yo) she is happy to have the same fabric for a dress for herself and dolly â even if it looks really wrong.
I prefer fabrics that are without print and small buttons. If I knit l prefer thin yarn and thinner needles so that the stitches are smaller.
Sometimes those licensed prints that the kids identify with are too large for an entire outfit. But they can be cut out and appliqued to a bodice, a pants leg, or a bag.
I go by eye if it doesnât look right, or feel right, I have to change it.
When making doll clothes , I look for smaller print fabrics or if it is a larger print Iâll imagine what it would look on a doll to determine if it will work or not.
Looking forward to learning
I sew mainly for 18â dolls so I just keep the largest item in the print under 1/2â
I think keeping the lace and buttons and all of that to scale is very important.
I think proportions on doll clothes are extremely important! I sew for 18â, 11 1/2â fashions dolls and also right down to tiny Barbie babies. If a waistline is a little short it looks more like an empire waist, if it is too long it looks like a dropped waist. I learned a bit about proportions by sketching out the 9 head Croquis using Zoe Hongâs You tube video. It helps one understand proportions of the body.
I feel like it just takes a good eye and a little editing to get the right scale and proportion.
l look for very small prints, ribbon, lace etc. that are in proportion to the size of the doll. I often end up using 30âs reproduction prints for the smaller dolls..
For some two-piece dresses, such as a dress with a pinafore, I often use a small print for the dress and a larger print with the same colors for the pinafore.
Small scale print â always keep an eye out when at fabric shops and even thrift stores. Seems like they are harder to find â but for doll clothes so essential!
Proportion is very important to me so, even though I sew doll clothes for charity, I am very aware of the size doll I am giving away with the clothes and compare the fabric, lace and all items to match the proportion of the doll as though she was a child.
Definitely consider the size of buttons, zippers, trim and even hem width in proportion to the doll.
I start with 1/3 2/3 vertical scale. . Then I go with how it looks. Scale can be top to bottom, side to side (is collar too big), size of print on fabric, and how pleasing it looks overall. Observe scale in childrenâs clothing (in real life or pictures). Before choosing final choice of fabric I even âshowcaseâ my choices on a flat surface. It is surprising what combinations are pleasing.
Iâm always on the lookout for tiny patterns either at fabric shops or thrift stores. One of my favorite thrifted finds was an XL sleeveless blouse that had tiny light blue stripes and tiny red lobsters. I was able to make four of the Mulberry Street Summer Romper pattern. Then I found a lobster print at Hobby Lobby that was a little bigger scale, but worked perfectly for making sun hats. I love it when things work out like that!
I usually use my âown handâ and the dolls hand to âcompareâ items to determine if itâs âtoo bigâ for the doll or not. I often work in threads (crocheter)⌠so I compare what a âyarnâ looks like on my hand to what it looks like on the dolls handâŚwhich often ends up being a âsewing threadâ size on smaller dolls â yes â I crochet with sewing threadsâŚ. heavier threads just donât âlook rightâ and thereâs SO many colors available with sewing thread it makes it âfunâ! :-) (that and a great lamp and magnifying glasses! LOL!!)
My friends give me their fabric scraps. If the prints are too big or not suitable to use for doll clothes, I use the fabric to make a quilt backing, a sleeping bag, or a tote bag for the little girl.
I try to look at a 5âłĂ5âł section of the fabric. If the print show up well on that small patch, then Iâm good.
Lots of great comments! I have resorted to taking a pattern piece or tracing to the fabric store to check for design size. On the size dolls I sew the most for, cutting the piece out of clear plastic like a clear page sleeve for a 3-ring binder works great and can be reused many times.
Love all the comments! Trying to find small scale fabrics for 18 inch dolls helps the outfits look more proportional.
Pay attention to the size of the EYES. Also, to a lesser extent the size of the hands and mouth. A doll like Blythe can look great with bigger prints than say, Barbie, even though the height is in the same range.
I donât think I can add to any of the already good comments and suggestions. Thanks Ladies!
I like to shop for childrenâs clothes in 2nd hand stores. They usually have smaller designs. When I can find baby whale corduroy, I grab that, too. I deconstruct the clothes for my âgirls.â
I donât really have a design tip to determine proportion, I just image it on the doll. If it overtakes the doll, itâs to big.
In historical garments, I like to study the silhouette for each era as closely as possible, so I can get the bodice and skirt lengths, sleeves and trim widths to fit like the original garments, with a balance of shapes that were appropriate for the time.
Would I wear a print, buttons or trim the size I am considering for the doll if I was the size of the doll.
Size of print is so critical, and sometimes easier to use multiple solids to create colorful outfits without worrying about prints.
When trying to design for my American Girl doll, I get thrown by the imbalance of her head and body. Her head is huge for her body. I have to reduce the scale of the hats and emphasize the outfit details so it looks balanced. If I scale the hat to her head size, she will look like sheâs about to topple over!
Is there a formula to use for the 18" dolls?
I look for small prints and lighter weight fabrics for my 14 inch and 18 inch doll clothes projects. I sometimes hold the print fabrics next to the doll, but mostly I just eyeball it. I will use larger prints for something casual like, pajama or lounge pants. Boxers for boy dolls look good with a biggger print.
I use small prints like a lot of post civil war fabrics have small print and works fine for doll clothes.
The buttons or snaps are a giveaway â if they are too big the outfit just doesnât look right.
Bring a doll with you, hold the fabric up to the doll- use you eyes for confirmation. Also place the dolls hand over part of the fabric, like a flower. If it doesnât cover the entire flower it probably is to big.
Definitely a small print fabric. If a solid then can always add an applique, cute patch or embroidery design.
My proportion tip is the make a trial piece to adjust for size and shape of item.
Small pattern fabric for doll clothes.
When choosing prints for.doll items, I use my thumb nail for reference. Unless Iâm totally in love with a print, if its bigger than my thumbnail I will pass
If the scale of the pattern design fits in the palm of their hand I find it to be a good size.I tend to look for tiny prints like those you would use for baby clothing.
Iâm a little bit fanatical about the size of buttons for doll clothes. Unless itâs a statement or a design feature, I try to keep the buttons or snaps as tiny as possible especially if theyâre not going to be functional. It ruins the look of an outfit to me if the button or snaps are too big.
I measure the width of the palm of the hand of the doll I am sewing for, and this seems to be a very good print scale for my projects. However, stripes always seem to be to a personal preference, and/or what other material, or materials are involved with the project, and depends on the article of clothing too.
SO many good practices here! I sew 18" doll clothes only for my 5 granddaughters. In fabric designs, I look for dots or small flowers. Iâm probably the only person here who didnât know that an American Girl doll is 1/4 to 1/3 size!
Take the weight of the fabric in addition to the scale of any print into consideration when choosing a fabric, especially if it needs to be pleated or gathered.
I measure my dollâs waist and any type print should be the size of their hand or smaller.
I donât have a special scaling techniqueâŚ.I just eye itâŚfor prints or fabric weightâŚusually works out fine
Still working on proper proportions and scale.
Donât want a print so large it detracts from the design.
I look for designs that will appeal to the girls Iâm sewing for first, but I also make sure the size of the print is in keeping with the size and shape pieces Iâm cutting. I just made a dress out of an outgrown girlâs dress with a wide border print on the skirt. Instead of the curved skirt pieces called for in the pattern that most resembled the girlsâ dress, I opted for a rectangle piece to keep the border print intact.
I use tiny designs to help keep the scale small to fit the dolls.
Scale just depends about how you use it. I used a border print to make my Seraphina sun dress. It looks so cool with the larger tier on the bottom. When I cut down a very cool dress my daughter wore when she was little, I used the elasticized ruched back for the bodice and the large scale flower for the skirt, I was winging it, and it turned out great
I check against the size of my feet and the dollâs.
I love the guiding comment I heard a long time ago â that fabrics prints should have elements smaller than the dollâs hand. On average, that works very well â for AG or Ellowyne or Barbie. It definitely improved my selection of fabric.
Iâd love to see more Freebie Fridayâs in the next year!
Draping, solids, and smaller prints are all important! Simple designs can be more attractive too!
I look at fabric prints that are the right scale on me and compare the scale of the print to my hand size. Then I compare the print I want to use for a doll outfit to the size of the dollâs hand to see if the scale will work well for the dollâs size.
I sew for charity using donated fabrics and 18â dolls, usually left overs from quilting projects. So often I donât have a lot of joices. I prefer small prints for dresses; stripes, dots, solids and abstract prints for casual clothes. I often combine coordinating fabrics in order to have enough to make a garment.
When using larger scale fabric can be difficult, placement and visual perception are things I take into consideration.
Remember, type of doll can affect proportion as much as size! Large designs on a baby doll will look less out of place than on a similar sized girl doll, and curves will make them look more obvious on an adult-shaped doll (either sort).
Playing with scale is fun! I donât always use tiny prints for dolls. Sometimes a large print can look very couture. When using a large print, I like to lay the fabric on the doll to see where the pattern of the fabric will look best.
I like to use small prints,on fabric and small ribbons.
Take a photo first; many times, a photo can help clarify issues that wouldnât necessarily be noticeable just by examining the materials in person.
I mostly sew for 18" dolls, and for those I generally choose prints with repeating motifs less than 1" in size. So if the fabric has floral motifs I make sure the motifs are under an inch in size, and no more than an inch or so apart from each other. If itâs a striped or plaid fabric, I make sure each stripe or square of plaid is no wider than an inch.
For things like buttons, buckles, etc. I measure a real one, like the button on my jeans, and divide by 3, because AG dolls are approximately 1/3 scale. Iâm not too exact with it though, because as long as itâs in the neighborhood of 1/3 real size, it will usually look ok, and sometimes the exact right size of something isnât practical or it might not even exist. For fabric prints, I look at about a 5 inch wide rectangle to simulate the approximate size of a doll tshirt. If the print looks reasonable, itâs good to use. If almost, it could be a fussy-cut situation. If it looks weird or I canât even tell what the print is, itâs a no-go.
Be sure to use smaller prints/checks/stripes and lighter weight fabric. If in doubt I may use solids for the main pieces and a smallish print as just the accent. You can use color to liven your garment up. And measure the doll!
I typically look at the space between the thumb and first finger, and envision what the element looks like in relation to this space, i.e., buttons, closures, jewelry, design elements on fabrics. Also, whether the element, although âtoo largeâ, may be the only one, such as on the front or back of a garment, and will that support it even though it is typically off scale.
I always measure first..sometimes I even make the pattern a little larger to get the right fit even though I scale to 1 inch on the original pattern.
If I notice the print more than the dollâs face when the fabric is beside it, the design is too large a scale.
Time to start new
The hard part is to remember that your doll, generally, is a child, and the adult is how scale measures. An 18" doll is about 1/4 scale, but as a child, it would probably have a 24" adult, which is 1/3. While fabric shopping, I cut 3Ă5 and 4Ă6 cards into 3Ă3 and 4Ă4 to make a quick measurement.
Scale is a fun thing for me. Most of my sewing is done with scraps of fabric from various garments that I have made over the years. When I have a fabric with a rather large design, or even large design, considering the size of the doll, I tend to blend it with solids so as to reduce the impact, or I cover it with a lace to distract. Yes, sometimes it works well and other times it fails but it is fun to try and my great granddaughter loves them and does not consider scale an issue.
Measure â measure again â then cut. This will avoid unnecessary headaches and will help in the making of a well fitted article of clothing.
Choose a print no larger than the dollâs hand.
People always compliment me on my doll clothes. I like to visit quilt shops for my fabric because they carry smaller prints, the correct size for doll clothes and also the durability for lots of play.
I hesitate to use any florals and stick to solids, small stripes and small checks
Measure twice and write it down, cut once.
Always use a very small print, small dots, and tiny stripes when sewing for dolls so the doll is not overwhelmed by out of proportion patterns.
Always be sure to measure the waist and chest of each doll you sew for, and keep it nearby when cutting out !
Measure the dolls body not just height
I donât have a lot of experience with designing my own so I like the tips of choosing the right fabric weight and print size.
If I absolutely love a fabric with a design that is larger than I usually choose for doll clothes I select a pattern with minimal pieces and fewer details.
I think in terms of 1:12, 1:6, etc, and then choose prints and designs that complement the scale I am working towards.
Use small printed fabrics
Keep scale of prints on material small for doll clothes.
Remember fabric weight as well as print size. To drape right, we usually need thinner fabrics than we would use sewing for ourselves.
Fabrics donât always scale down well for doll clothes. Like regular corduroy is going to be too bulky for most doll clothes but pinwhale can work just fine. Usually the lesser weight of fabrics will work better for small sizes.
Love to sew 14" and 18". Pick fabrics that work for both.
Thanks Barb it also reminded me when making long sleeve to measure that they will fit over the spread of the dollâs fingersâŚsome are wider than others making it hard to get the top/dress on the doll.
I believe I read on your site to use the eyes of the doll. The flower or whatever should be no larger than their eyes.
Take a look at the clothes in your closet. Usually the prints have much smaller scale than we think.
Use the appropriate scale of print on fabric.
When printing an online pattern, be sure to select âactual sizeâ when printing or it may be the wrong size.
Merry Christmas!
Sometimes a design that is too large can be placed so just a portion shows and adds a dash of flair! For example, I did an embroidery flower for a bodice. It was too big. So I placed it where a portion of the embroidery design went off the bodice. It looked great!
Use tiny prints to keep things to scale.
Remember that the 18" dollâs head is sometimes larger in proportion than on a human. And also the dollâs limbs donât bend like humans. Keep this in mind when making a pullover top or dress. Iâve made a doll turtle neck top that was nearly impossible to get on!
The rule of thirds and balance
Love this!
Ann
December 25, 2025
If the finished garment allows your eyes to flow smoothly from top to bottom, the garment is proportional to the size of the doll. Measuring is key! My mother had us creating and sewing for our dolls before we sewed for ourselves!