Hi Everyone! Let's talk about finishing well! One of the most overlooked things in sewing garments can be the interior finish work. This is especially the case when it comes to sewing for dolls. I learned early on that the key to success was to finish well, and not just well, but exceptionally well! Providing a beautifully finished interior elevates the overall design and adds to the recipients' overall appreciation and admiration of your work. The attention to detail in this area goes a long way!
Throughout this 4 part topic, we will cover a variety of ways to finish the seam allowances using a standard sewing machine!
I'll be demonstrating these methods while sewing the Liberty Jane Mindil Beach design to help illustrate how the basic techniques and methods are used. Follow along to understand my thought process, hopefully watching me in action will clarify any concerns or issues you may have with these types of techniques.
It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...
Watch the overview video for this months topic:
Patterns Used For this Topic:
Liberty Jane Mindil Beach Dress (for the sew along)
Other pattern designs that feature the hong kong finish or are a good choice for this type of seam finish:
Hong Kong Binding Tutorial and Practice Assignment
Below you'll find the video tutorial for how to sew a hong kong binding. I've also included a short image/text tutorial for your reference.
Week One task:
More On The Hong Kong Binding:
Follow along as I show you how to do a fairly easy, couture edge finish binding the raw edges of your seam allowance using bias strips.
All you need is some fabric to finish, and a few strips of bias.
It's important to use bias for this technique for several reasons. First, cutting the fabric on the bias (or, 45 degrees from the straight grain) gives it greater flexibility. Bias also doesn't fray, which is a plus since this technique leaves one edge of the binding unfinished on the back of the seam allowance.
Step 1: Lay a 1" wide strip of bias over your edge to be finished. Stitch along the edge at 1/4" seam allowance.
Then, press the strip away from the fabric, and wrap it around to the back. The key word here is wrap, you don't want to make extra bulk for yourself by folding up the seam allowance underneath the binding. (You can trim the seam allowance down if you need to.)
Step 2: The binding should overlap your first line of stitching by about 3/16" or so; pin it down, and then from the right side, machine-stitch next to the original binding seam. Ta da!
Alternate Ways to use this technique: You can do a hong-kong finish on curved edges, like this one:
(Getting a smooth curve is much easier if you pre-press the bias strip into shape.)
You can also substitute strips of tulle for the bias strips; this is especially handy for binding delicate fabrics, like lace or chiffons.
Or, if the binding fabric you want to use is really lightweight, and you don't want to have a raw edge on the backside, you can cut a wider strip of bias, fold it in half, and then proceed as normal. Just make sure the folded edge is the one you wrap to the back. :)
Next Tuesday - Part 2: We will kick off our Mindil Beach Dress sew along. Gather up the supplies needed to be ready to go.
Suggested Fabrics: Lightweight woven cotton, rayon challis, shirting cotton, lawn, and silky poly/ blends.