Sewing The Raglan Sleeve: The Sew-Along Begins!

Hi Everyone! In Part 2 we begin the sew-along for the E=dK² dress. To participate in the sew-along, you can purchase the pattern HERE. If you'd like to use this month's coupon code, you can find it listed on the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section.

Gather up all the necessary supplies, read through the pattern to familiarize yourself with the assembly process and techniques used.

In this first lesson we will be constructing the bodice and working through the sleeve in view A. 

 

To create professional looking items, there are many tasks that need to be done during construction that should never be seen when the finished garment is worn.  Three of which are symbol marking, staystitching, and understitching.

The more complex a pattern is, the more important accurate symbol marking becomes.  It’s a good idea to keep the pattern pieces close by during construction so they can be referenced if needed to confirm a dot or symbol placement.

 

Staystitching is one of those hidden tasks of construction that can seem unnecessary but makes a huge difference in the finished result of a project. It helps prevent stretching of the bias (or diagonal) areas during construction as well as reinforcing the curves and corners where the seam allowance will need to be clipped.  For staystitching, use a slightly shorter stitch length and stitch just inside the seamline.  Try to be as accurate with this as with the seam itself, so there’s no need to remove unwanted visible staystitches later.  Going a little slower for accuracy can save time in the long run.

 

Understitching is another step that is tempting to just skip, but it can make all the difference in the finished neckline as it helps prevent the lining from being visible on the outside of the garment. This row of stitching is done on the lining/facing after the seam allowance has been clipped so that it lays flat around the curves. It should be about a 16th of an inch from the neckline seam. It holds the lining/facing to the seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the understitching to reduce bulk. 

 

For another look at staystitching (at 9:50 minutes in) and reducing bulk check out the tips outlined in this video from our Couture Sewing series:

 

The versatile E=dK2 pattern is labeled as “Advanced”, but with the videos as a guide, an experienced beginner could have the confidence to give these raglan sleeves a try. Follow along as Donna highlights some of the instructions and takes a step by step look at the construction of the sleeve in View A. 

 

Most any lightweight woven fabric can be used for this dress.  Quilting weight cotton is easy to find and works well for a casual style dress.  Bridal satin or crepe type fabric has a nice body and drape that works well and results in a more formal looking dress. The sash is best done in a silky or chiffon type fabric.  You could substitute a soft ribbon or beaded trim along the waistline as a special accent instead of the sash.

Once you’ve constructed the bodice and sleeve portion following the video, you can move on with the side seams and skirt construction.  This pattern features an invisible zipper closure at the center back. 

For a great tutorial about installing an invisible zipper be sure to check out this video from our Sewing With Zippers series:

 

These videos, from the Sewing machine Presser Feet series, go into more detail about using a zipper foot and an invisible zipper foot too!

 

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