Sewing Tiny Accessories Part 4

Follow along in the final installment of Sewing Tiny Accessories with an in-depth tutorial from Shari showing us how to use the Saint Birgitta Decorative Stitch on her newest pattern! This stitch can be used to embellish a variety of accessories from historical to modern, as well as tops and dresses! Are you ready to jump in and learn this new skill? Let's go!

During the Middle Ages, caps were an important part of a ladies wardrobe because they helped to keep ones hair clean and neatly out of the way. Very few of these caps have survived over the years since they were considered a common garment and weren't treasured and passed down liked fine outer garments.  Most of what we know about caps is gleaned from paintings and illuminated manuscripts.  Unlike a photograph, paintings only give us a vague outline of the design and construction of these caps, so most of the time there is a lot of guesswork as designers try to reconstruct them.  

The Saint Birgitta Cap, a common ladies cap that was worn across Europe between the 13^th - 15^th centuries, is a rare exception.  Saint Birgitta was a 14^th century Swedish Saint, and after her death one of her caps was saved as a revered relic.  From it, we can clearly see how this once common style of cap was constructed as well as the intricate needle work that was often used to join the two halves of the cap together.    

Caps were were generally close fitting so that a hat could be donned over the top -  a practical hat for working outdoors, or a fancier hat for more formal attire.  Caps, like Saint Birgitta's, secured around the back of the head unlike a coif which tied under the chin.  One of the distinctive features of Saint Birgitta's cap was that it wasn't tied on.  Instead, the ties were sewn together in a closed circle which wrapped twice around the head for a snug fit.  

This cap is made with two rectangles of fabric that are rounded at the crown of the head, and sewn together along a central seam.  This seam could be left plain, or finished with a bridging stitch.  The particular bridging stitch used on Saint Birgitta's cap is a kind of interlaced trellis stitch, which is now often referred to as the Saint Birgitta stitch because of it's association with the Saint Birgitta Cap.  It is a lovely stitch that is made with four passes of threads that are woven together to make a kind of a repeated cross pattern.  

This cap is very easy project to make and a great way to top off a Medieval wardrobe and this smaller scale project is a great way to try your hand at making the Saint Birgitta stitch.  

Follow along as Shari shows you how to sew the stitch and sew up the Saint Brigitta Cap!

 

 

 

Looking for the pattern? Find it in the Saint Brigitta's Cap in the Thimbles And Acorns pattern collection. It completes the look of the Medieval garments in her latest pattern Medieval Wardrobe collection - 14th Century Cotehardie, Medieval Chemise, Aprons, and Turnshoes!

 

 

Ideas For Modern Application

If you are more interested in modern clothing, you will find this stitch to be a great way to embellish your favorite blouse or dress, by using it to replace an existing seam at the shoulders, yoke, or armscyes.  Or, cut a whole new seam where you'd like to add some embellishment. 

Many of the designs from the Liberty Jane pattern collection would be great canvases for this technique too! The Topanga Canyon Top, Kings Canyon Peplum Top, or Getty Villa Sundress are a few good examples. For example, on the Kings Canyon Top (shown on the WellieWishers doll here)the Saint Birgitta Stitch would look amazing finishing the raglan sleeve seams or inserted down the into the seamline.

The Sleeves on the Carnaby Street dress and the collar on the San Marco Dress/Top could both be accented with the Saint Brigitta stick as well!

 

Shari's Project Application

I decided to incorporate the Saint Birgitta stitch in an outfit I was putting together for a Waldorf-style doll I made for my little grand niece, Astrid.  She just turned one, and needs a special doll to love.  For this doll outfit, I wanted a simple design and my inspiration was coming from my recent reconnection with Hollie Hobbie and Pippi Longstocking – because with the name Astrid, there was no way I couldn't be inspired by Pippi.  I didn't have exactly what I was looking for in my pattern collection, so I ended up piecing together and reworking parts from several different Keepers Dolly Duds and Thimbles and Acorns patterns to pull this ensemble together.  Can you figure out which patterns I used?

I picked out the sleeves for this outfit because I thought the loose fitting, peasant style look nice embellished with the Saint Birgitta stitch.

I cut each sleeve in half just below the elbow and finished the edges with a 1/8” hem.  Then, I prepared the sleeves and worked the stitch the same way I did in the tutorial.  

 

The neckline looked a little plain, so I decided to dress it up a little bit the Saint Birgitta stitch there as well, but I decided to work it over the surface of the fabric instead of bridging a seam because I didn't want to mess with the facing.

 

I am really happy with how this outfit turned out, but I think it needs a little more.  Maybe some decorative embroidery on the jumper, or a fun over-sized pocket for storing treasures?  Maybe a playful cap?  What do you think?  

I hope  you enjoyed this tutorial, I am looking forward to seeing how you incorporate the Saint Birgitta stitch in your own projects!

 

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