This fully lined fit and flare style coat, by Genniewren Designs, has many interesting design features. There are several neckline choices – you can leave it with a plain round neck, or you can add a collar for a revered front. The collar will also work with the neckline buttoned up to the neck, and then there's a hood for those cold, wintry days.
The princess line styling means the coat is flattering in cut. The center back panel can include ribbon loops for a corset-style adjustment to the fit if desired.
There are several length options – a maxi (full length) coat, a midi (knee length) coat, a mini (hip length) coat and a Euro style jacket. The jacket has a choice of a straight or a draped hemline for the center back piece, to simulate a bustle.
The design is suitable for many types of fabrics. The examples in the cover photographs have been made in synthetic suede (hooded coat); velvet (long coat); lightweight herringbone wool tweed (lilac coat) and quilters cotton (Euro style jacket). Short pile fur fabric or crushed velour would also work for this design.
For the longer styles the almost circular skirt means the coat twirls beautifully and can be worn with period clothing as well as modern clothing. The jacket could also be used over a Victorian bustle or crinoline skirt depending on your fabric and trim choices. The Euro-style jacket can be made unlined or reversible if desired.
Patterns for a simple hat and a muff are also included in this PDF pattern. The muff and the turn back brim of the hat are best made from fur fabric, or Minkee plush fabric.
Recommended Fabrics: Coat: Lightweight woolen/worsted suiting fabric, Denim, Velvet, Corduroy, Fur fabric. Unlined Jacket – quilters cotton, denim, twill, polycotton. Hat/Muff – fur fabric, Minkee ®, velvet, lightweight woolen/worsted fabric.
-One yard of 45” wide fabric for the coat (all lengths). If your fabric has no nap or directional print then you will need less than a yard.
-Three quarters of a yard of lining fabric.
-A quarter of a yard of fur fabric (for the hood/collar/hat/muff). (Optional)
-Half a yard of cotton print fabric for the unlined jacket.
-A small piece of fusible/iron on interfacing 9” x 3”.
-Buttons for the fastenings (you can use snaps if you prefer, or sew snaps under the buttons). There are four buttons on the hooded mini length coat, three buttons on the midi coat with the folded back collar, five buttons on the full length coat, and 6 buttons on the jacket. If you prefer to make the midi coat so that collar buttons right up to the neckline, you will need four buttons.
-1 yard (1 metre) of ⅛ inch (3 mm) or ¼ inch (6mm) wide ribbon, You will need 12 inches (30 cm) for the back loops for the optional corset ties, plus a further 24 inches for the corset tie.
-14 inches of narrow ribbon or cord for the muff.
-2½ yards (2.2 metres) ½ inch wide single fold bias binding for the jacket option.
-Assorted short lengths of trims for the Euro-Style jacket (if desired).
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 58 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.Download, Print, Sew!
I have not made American doll clothes before, and I knew from sewing people-size clothes that I was challenging myself from the start, with gores, and velvet collar, and full lining for something on this scale. Yet, taking the project a step at a time, resulted in a very pleasant experience, and a beautiful piece I feel much gratitude to this designer for her excellent directions. Next time, I would use a less lofty wool. I cut the velvet collar with larger seam allowances, because the pile of that fabric made it difficult to work with 1/4 inch seam. Once I had stitched it, though, I could cut the excess away.
very nice design, but it turned out too small.
Great pattern as usual, just consider the skill level when you purchase it. You can step up and try this intermediate pattern with step by step instructions as usual.
I tested this pattern, and used fake fur. It turned out so cute. Her instructions are the best! Not a beginners pattern, but doable. My granddaughters keep one of their dolls in the coat at all times.
this jacket is just darling. The back with the lacing is so unique and people rave about it. Sewing the side panels to the front or back pieces take patience and care. I have made the fancy jacket with trims and the hooded short jacket and both are cute.