This week, I show you how to do a fairly easy, couture edge finish -- basically, you bind the raw edges of your seam allowance using bias strips.
All you need is some fabric to finish, and a few strips of bias.
It's important to use bias for this technique for several reasons. First, cutting the fabric on the bias (or, 45 degrees from the straight grain) gives it greater flexibility. Bias also doesn't fray, which is a plus since this technique leaves one edge of the binding unfinished on the back of the seam allowance.
OK, enough fabric education -- let's get binding!
Lay a 1" wide strip of bias over your edge to be finished. Stitch along the edge at 1/4" seam allowance.
Then, press the strip away from the fabric, and wrap it around to the back. The key word here is wrap, you don't want to make extra bulk for yourself by folding up the seam allowance underneath the binding. (You can trim the seam allowance down if you need to.)
The binding should overlap your first line of stitching by about 3/16" or so; pin it down, and then from the right side, machine-stitch next to the original binding seam. Ta da!
You can do a hong-kong finish on curved edges, like this one:
(Getting a smooth curve is much easier if you pre-press the bias strip into shape.)
You can also substitute strips of tulle for the bias strips; this is especially handy for binding delicate fabrics, like lace or chiffons.
Or, if the binding fabric you want to use is really lightweight, and you don't want to have a raw edge on the backside, you can cut a wider strip of bias, fold it in half, and then proceed as normal. Just make sure the folded edge is the one you wrap to the back. :)
And that's it!
Do you have a favorite way of finishing edges? Have you ever used a hong-kong finish? Let us know in the comments, we'd love to hear from you!
Thanks for following along today!
For Pixie Faire,
Melinda
33 Comments
Can you post a picture of the backs of those pieces? It looks beautiful from the front, but if you’re binding seam allowance, the back will be seen too, and I’m wondering about that raw edge.
I have used bias tape folded in half to wrap around quilts and potholders.
Prior to having a Serger, often finished seams this way as a zig-zag finish never appealed to me. That said; in lieu of tule on open weaved fabrics, one can also use organza cut on the bias which also provides a bit of body to what otherwise might be a flimsy edge.
Im going to try this on the boys pj top. It doesn’t have a collar. I hate just folding an edge over. Lol
Our clothes when I was younger was hand made, and our tailor used this seam.
Love this tutorial on how to do a beautiful Hong Kong finish. I can think of several fabrics in my stash that will finish off so much better with the tulle option, and this use as a binding for outfits will look so lovely on our Liberty Jane patterns! Going to see if it will work on a neckline, too.
One of my New Year’s resolutions— make the most of the sewing techniques posted here, and to learn to use all the buttons and feet that are on my sewing machine.
Thanks!