This week, I show you how to do a fairly easy, couture edge finish -- basically, you bind the raw edges of your seam allowance using bias strips.
All you need is some fabric to finish, and a few strips of bias.
It's important to use bias for this technique for several reasons. First, cutting the fabric on the bias (or, 45 degrees from the straight grain) gives it greater flexibility. Bias also doesn't fray, which is a plus since this technique leaves one edge of the binding unfinished on the back of the seam allowance.
OK, enough fabric education -- let's get binding!
Lay a 1" wide strip of bias over your edge to be finished. Stitch along the edge at 1/4" seam allowance.
Then, press the strip away from the fabric, and wrap it around to the back. The key word here is wrap, you don't want to make extra bulk for yourself by folding up the seam allowance underneath the binding. (You can trim the seam allowance down if you need to.)
The binding should overlap your first line of stitching by about 3/16" or so; pin it down, and then from the right side, machine-stitch next to the original binding seam. Ta da!
You can do a hong-kong finish on curved edges, like this one:
(Getting a smooth curve is much easier if you pre-press the bias strip into shape.)
You can also substitute strips of tulle for the bias strips; this is especially handy for binding delicate fabrics, like lace or chiffons.
Or, if the binding fabric you want to use is really lightweight, and you don't want to have a raw edge on the backside, you can cut a wider strip of bias, fold it in half, and then proceed as normal. Just make sure the folded edge is the one you wrap to the back. :)
And that's it!
Do you have a favorite way of finishing edges? Have you ever used a hong-kong finish? Let us know in the comments, we'd love to hear from you!
Thanks for following along today!
For Pixie Faire,
Melinda
33 Comments
Great ideas! Can’t wait to try!
This is lovely seam finish! I learned this in my Apparel Design and Developement course in college 25 years ago. As someone else mentioned, it is the perfect seam finish for an unlined garment. It is the upscale and less bulky seam finish than serging.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/28951/how-to-sew-a-hong-kong-finish
Love the patterns and the dolls are beautiful.
I don’t understand. Why would you leave one side of the bias unfinished. Doesn’t that add bulk. You have 1 inch bias, you make a 1/4 inch seam, now you have the rest of the width of the bias just sticking out. Makes more sense to enclose the whole seam allowance.
This is what I use in all my bias attachments. But I was taught the “Stitch in the ditch”. Same thing. Gives a really nice finish and appearance to the finished item. I use on all fabrics.