Hi Everyone! This week we continue with a look at finishing the visible edges of these specialty fabrics. Depending on the fabric type, you may need to use an altered technique for the sleeve or skirt hem and possibly the neckline. It can be liberating to know that you can use an alternate fabric choice if you klnow the proper techniques or fabric treatment to make it work for the intended design.
There are a variety of finishing hems that can be used: a hand rolled hem, single fold hem, double fold hem, faced hem, bias trimmed or ribbon faced hem, and more. Hems are the most traditional way to finsh a garment, they are simple and do the job beautifully. With the information and instruction provided you should be able to choose the right hem for the job with confidence!
Facings are a great alternative to a traditionally hemmed neckline. Facings are cut pieces of fabric, shaped to match the edge of the garment, stitched to the garment with right side together and then turned right side out to create a clean finished edge. In the video, we walk you through how to create a facing from your existing pattern pieces. Once you know how to do this you can become creative with fabric choices and added details like bias trimmed facings!
A binding is a strip of fabric that encases a raw edge. Usually these strips are cut on the bias and can be shaped, by pressing, to match the curve or shape of the garment edge. It can be decorative as well as functional, which make this a fun technique to integrate into your design. Additionally they can be used to finish waistlines and armscyes for that added couture detail!
In the video posted below I am joined by Melinda (of Melody Valerie Couture) to help illustrate some of these techniques. The goal here is to help you have a better understanding of the needs of these fabrics and proivide you with the skills to work with them confidently!
Are you ready? Let's go...
Pattern Overview:
- Liberty Jane Hello Oscar (Lined dress, hemmed skirt)
- Liberty Jane Opening Night (fully lined bodice and skirt, hand rolled hem on neckline and armscyes)
- Liberty Jane Abbey Road A-Line Dress (lined dress, uses armscye binding)
- Liberty Jane Cosplay Day Dress (Ribbon faced hem, lined bodice, binding on sleeve hem)
- Liberty Jane Blossom Dress (bubble skirt hemline, lined bodice)
- Liberty Jane Aspen Party Dress (Lining combined with rushing along the neckline)
- Liberty Jane Picture Day Skirt for WW
- Liberty Jane Woomera Dress (sleeve and skirt hem use rolled narrow zigzag technique)
- Liberty Jane Killara Dress (demonstrates the rolled zigzag hem)
- Liberty Jane Salina Dress AG
- Liberty Jane Picture Day Skirt Barbie
- Liberty Jane Picture Day Skirt AG
- Liberty Jane Mindil Beach Dress
- Liberty Jane Steam Bib Top (faced neckline)
- Liberty Jane Schoolboy Blazer (Facing and Hong Kong binging)
- Liberty Jane Cropped Jacket (simple folded facing)
Patterns By Melody Valerie Couture Shown in the Video:
- Lily of the Valley
- Transcontinental
- New Girl for AG
- New Girl for AGAT
Resources (reposted last week):
Fabric Notes - Depending on where you live, some types of fabrics may be easier to find than others. For doll size projects you can also check discount stores for dresses or tops that can work well for your projects too! The nice thing about these finds is that they usually have coordinating linings and trims included!
Tools and supplies - Like I mentioned above, you may be able to find these things locally, but just in case.... I've included some links below to some of the useful sewing supplies. I may be helpful to read through reviews under the product listings to be sure you purchase the items that will work best!
If you like to shop online, check out these sources for specialty fabrics and the tools I recommend:
- Britex Fabrics in SanFrancisco is my favorite place to shop - if you're ever in the area be sure to check it out!
- Pacific Fabrics (Northgate store in the Seattle area has a great selection of bridal and formal dress fabrics!)
- Fabric Depot (there's a better selection in store but they do have some items online)
- Schmetz Microtex Sharp Needles - Amazon
- Dritz Extra Fine Glass Head Pins - Amazon
- Clover Triangular Tailors Chalk - Amazon
- Acrylic Ruler - Amazon
- 28mm Rotary Cutter - Amazon
- Freezer Paper - Amazon
- Fabrics A to Z by Dana Willard
- Acrylic/Nylon Linings - Jo Ann Fabrics
- Bemberg Rayon Lining - Fabric.com
- White Rayon Challis (you can watch me dip dye it here on Instagram!)
- A Variety of lining fabrics found at Fashionfabricsclub.com
Weekly task:
- Choose a design and add your creative touch with hem detail or a fabulous facing trimmed with bias! Adding the little bit of "suprise and delight" to the interior of a garment is sure to bring a smile to someones face, or your own! After you create this new garment with these added otouches, you just might keep them for your self!
Next Tuesday - Week 4: Working with costume fabrics is on the schedule, but we may postpone this one a bit because to the Christmas holiday. I'll keep you updated!
9 Comments
Hi Cinnamon. I joined your sewing club last year and have really enjoyed it. I did not get to copy the early class videos and was wondering if I could get access to the videos for Jan through Aug. Thank you and the classes were great. Carole
What was the name of the book on fabric you told us about in the class?
Awesome videos.
Wow! These three videos this month have been spectacular! I hope you will continue with this topic because there is so much to know. I am very interested in learning about working with fabrics that fray heavily. I would also like to know more about matching plaids and stripes.
Thank you so much.
Barbara